My travels is all about... My views, thoughts and experiences on/about/at/with random places of interest, persons, things, events, issues etc,. I am an eternal student with a restless mind and a tumultuous heart!

Sunday, March 8, 2020

The Unique Scribe


Me with the Shahsana Sundari


(There is a famous and rare - perhaps the only one of it's kind - sculpture of Shila Balika/Shasana Sundari on the wall of Kamaleshwara/Ishwara Temple of Jalasingvi, Humnabad Taluka of Bidar District, Karnataka. A graceful & mythological apsara/madanika is drafting an eulogising epigraph on her patron, Vikramaditya VI. )

There exists a unique scribe on the walls of the old Chalukyan temple, with a shine,
in 'Tribhanga' she stood, rapt and apt, consistent amidst the crushing sands of time.
Despite the ubiquitous jewellery, something's amiss about this mysterious miss,
for her raised hand and outward beauty deceive her radiance inward, of a soulful bliss.

In styllish syllables, she scripts an eloquent eulogy on her proud patron,
as ignorant people steal lazy glances on the cultured maiden.
When would the world learn to admire the scribe's true talents,
without off-color remarks or sarcastic jibes aimed to further endanger the gender balance.

Underneath the grace and elegance of the learned lady,
beneath all the veneer of opulence & vanity that suits nobody,
a simple yet unique scribe's at work - like a paradox at play.
Until our minds are cleansed of perverse judgements, beauty remains a captive in toys of stone and clay!


 
Shasana Sundari/Shila Balika - the unique scribe







Maheeth V
Sunday, 08th of March, 2020 - On the eve of International Women's Day
Palakollu









Tuesday, February 18, 2020

Me at Peupalem & On Beach Festival

At the beach

The calm of the chill February morning reeked of deception,
as workers scrambled here and there to make an event of mighty conception.
As little fishing boats enriched the mighty Bay of Bengal;
we fought with all the might, against time, tide and pessimists all.

At the Venue

The gentle charm of the beach was not shattered,
as crowds poured into the event, and were aptly monitored
And dances and songs enticed the visiting masses,
for West Godavari, the event was of prestige and status.

The Crowd

Vizag or Kakinada's opulence - Perupalem could never dream to match,
but there's a certain Je ne Sais Quoi - and herein is the catch.
What wonders could we make for want of time,
Yet, thunders of applause sufficed like an endearing rhyme!







On Perupalem - Poem on First Perupalem Beach Festival


Maheeth V
18 February 2020. Palakollu.

Wednesday, February 5, 2020

కుమార భీమారామం

Temple Tank - Koneru

చారిత్రక ప్రాముఖ్యత దృష్ట్యా పంచా-రామ శైవ క్షేత్రాలన్నిటిలోకి పేరెన్నిక గాంచిన క్షేత్రాలు రెండు - ద్రాక్షారామం, సామర్లకోట. సామర్లకోట లో వున్న శివాలయం - కుమారా భీమారామం గా ప్రసిద్ధి. ఇక్కడ పార్వతి దేవి బాలా త్రిపురసుందరి గా వెలిశారు. ఈ గుడిని తూర్పు చాళుక్య రాజైన మొదటి చాళుక్య భీముడు 9వ  శతాబ్దం లో నిర్మించినట్టు చెపుతారు (ఆయన  పాలనా కాలం - 892-921 CE).

An Inscription inside temple
Model of Temple

ఈ గుడి లో అనేక విశిష్టమైన విశేషాలు కలవు. గర్భాలయం రెండు భారీ ప్రకార గోడల లోపల వుంది. కోనేరు కుడా కలదు. ప్రధాన ద్వారం ద్వారా ప్రేవేశించిన వెంటనే ఎడమ వైపు కాలభైరవ స్వామి ఆలయం కలదు - ఈయన క్షేత్ర పాలకుడు. లోపల వున్నా రెండో ప్రాకార గోడ పై అనేక చిన్నపాటి  శిల్పాలు (సప్తమాత్రికలు, విలుకాడు etc), శాసనాలు వున్నాయి. రెండో ప్రాకార ద్వారం గుండా ప్రవేశించాక, ఒక భారీ నంది దర్శిస్తుంది. గర్భాలయం ముందు ప్రదక్షిణాపథం తో పాటు కొద్దిపాటి విశాలమైన స్థలం కలదు. ఇటీవల తవ్వకాలలో బయల్పడిన శిల్పాలు ప్రదక్షిణాపథం వద్ద చాల కన్పిస్తాయి - ఇందులో ఒకటి చాళుక్య సేనాపతి అయినా ఛన్దరాసి కి చెందినదిగా భావిస్తున్నారు. గర్భాలయం శిఖరం కి ఆనుకుని వున్నా గోడ పై దక్షిణం వైపు రెండు నాట్యకత్తెల శిల్పాలు వున్నాయి. ప్రధాన గర్భాలయం ద్వారం పై గజలక్ష్మి motif కలదు - ఇది తూర్పు చాళుక్యుల గుళ్ళ  లక్షణం. రెండు అంతస్తులు గా వున్న గర్భగుడి పై అంతస్థు లో పశ్చిమ దిక్కున ఒక స్థంభం పై లింగోద్భవ మూర్తి శిల్పం, దాని కింద కోలాటం చేస్తున్న స్త్రీల చిన్నపాటి శిల్పాలు చెక్కబడ్డాయి. తూర్ప చాళుక్యుల తదనంతరం రెడ్డి  రాజులు, ముసునూరి నాయకులు ఈ దేవాలయానికి అనేక మార్పూలు చేయదలచినా కుడా, ఈ గుడి పై తూర్పు చాళుక్యుల ప్రభావం మాత్రమే ఎక్కువ కన్పిస్తుంది. అందుకే, బహుశా ఇక్కడ గోపురాలు కుడా లేవు.

The Temple
Lingodhbhava Murthi - west pillar inside Garbha Griha

చరిత్ర కి, భక్తి కి సమప్రాధాన్యత కల్గిన ఇలాంటి గుడి కి వెళ్ళడం, దర్శించడం మనస్సుని  ఆహ్లాదపరిచింది.

Dancers Galore...
Mythology /స్థలపురాణం  - అసలు పంచారామాలు ఏమిటి ? (Warning - story based on faith/Hindu Mythology)
మార్కండేయ పురాణము  లో వున్న తారకాసుర వధ గాధ ఆధారంగా పంచారామ క్షేత్రాలు ఉద్భవించాయి. దేవతలకి, రాక్షసులకు జరిగిన సంగ్రామం లో దేవతల సేనాదక్షుడైన కార్తెకేయుడు తారకాసురుడనే రాక్షసుడిని సంహరించాడు. అయితే, తారకాసురుని మృతి తో  అతని వద్ద ఎంతో తపస్సు తో పొందిన శివుని ఆత్మ లింగం ముక్కలై ఐదు భాగాలు గా భూమి పై రాలాయాని చెపుతారు. కాలక్రమేణా, ఆ ఐదు పూర్తి లింగాలు గా పునఃప్రతిష్టిచబడి, దేవాలయాలు గా వెలసాయన్నది ఒక వాదన. ఇట్టివి -
1. ద్రాక్షారామం (తూర్పు గోదావరి)
2. సామర్లకోట (తూర్పు గోదావరి)
3. పాలకొల్లు (పశ్చిమ గోదావరి)
4. భీమవరం - గుణుపూడి (పశ్చిమ గోదావరి)
5. అమరావతి (గుంటూరు)


With Supriya Madam, Srinivas Sir and friends - Harsha Garu &Janaki Ramachandra Garu



వెలువలి మహీత్,
05/02/2020 - Palakollu. 

On Kumara Bheemaramam

Temple tank - Koneru

Out of the five Pancha-Rama Kshetras, the temples at Draksharamam and Samarlakota stand out for their ancient feel, ambiance and sheer size - true and only examples of Eastern Chalukyan Architectural legacy. The temple of Kumara Bheemarama of Samarlakota, dedicated to Lord Shiva as Kumara Bheemeswara Swamy, was built during the reign of Chalukya Bhima I (r.c.892-921 CE). Goddess Parvati is worshipped as Bala Tripura Sundari here.

Dancers Galore...

Recently discovered Inscription

Model of the temple
Lingodhbhava Murthi
There are many interesting features of this temple - The Garbha Griha (Sanctum Sanctorum) and main temple premises including the temple tank i.e, Koneru  are enclosed within a large boundary wall, separated by distinct Pradakshina Pathas (Circumambulation passege). To the left of the entrance, there is a detached shrine dedicated to KalaBhairava Swamy. Sculpted images of a bowman (perhaps alluding to the Eastern Chalukyan subjugation of Boya Kottams), Saptamatrikas, Iscriptions adorn the inner wall. Once inside the temple premises, many sculptures, recently excavated can be found, including the one allegedly belonging to a Chalukyan cheiftain named Chandarasi. Two dancing figurines, atypical of Chalukyan times adorn the west wall of the main shrine. Inside the Garbha Griha, on the West Pillar, there is a sculpted image of Lingodhbhava Murthi, along with dancers performing Kolattam. The Garbha Griha entrance has the GajaLakshmi Motif - another interesting Chalukyan symbolism. Although later day embellishments were made by Reddy Kings, Musunuri Nayakas etc, the temple retained it's own Chalukyan Anceint feel - there are no Gopurams! There is a small model of the temple too, inside, that probably served as an inspiration for the Shikhara/Vimana.

I'm extremely impressed at the balance of religiosity and historical curiosity that the temple offered me!
 
The temple

Mythoglogy - Sthala Purana of the Pancha Rama Kshetras
In Andhra Pradesh, there are five sacred temples of Lord Shiva called 'Pancha-Rama Kshetras' associated with the legend of 'Tarakasura Vadha' of Markandeya Purana. As per the legend, in a fierce battle between the Devas and Asuras,  the God of War Kartikeya defeated and slayed the demon king Tarakasura, who possessed a powerful symbolic Shaiva - Atma Linga. The Linga was subsequently destroyed and scattered into five pieces at five different places. In due course of time, these particles of Linga were consecrated and temples were constructed. These Pancha-Rama Kshetras are located at - Samarlakota & Draksharamam (East Godavari district), Palakollu & Bhimavaram (West Godavari district), Amaravati (Guntur District).



Maheeth Veluvali,
Wednesday - 05th of February, 2020.
Palakollu



Tuesday, February 4, 2020

The Little Ride East...

(On the trip to & fro ETC, Samarlakota)

The benign rays of the Sun played hide and seek in the uncertain fog,
and twice did I cross the river Godavari, the goddess of life - the deary dream of a demagogue,
as I made the little ride east, alone in the cozy comfort of my own self;
and not once did I stop, clutching aimlessly, like a lone lazy wolf.

@ETC, Samarlakota

Paddy fields that owe their very existence to the farmers' toil,
Ancient temples of Lord Shiva stand so spiritually royal;
As thoughts of the mouth watering 'Kaza' seize my simple mind,
I rode on, into Eastern Chalukyan's own architectural play ground.

Snippets from return trip...

The distant sound of the smart city's beach brought joy to my ears,
And not once did the loyal bike betray the trust built over the years.
The little ride east allowed me to make peace between chance and choice,
and in a ceremonial flourish, I did find my own struggling inner voice.

Kakinada Ride Collage



Maheeth Veluvali,
Tuesday - 04th of February, 2020.
Palakollu



Sunday, February 2, 2020

@ ETC, Samarlakota

(Poem on 6th Batch 6 Day Training of New Grade V Panchayat Secretaries at ETC, Samarlakota, which I was fortunate to attend - 27/01/2020 to 01/02/2020) 

"
Six days of fun filled training comprised of Act, Fact and Tact,
and one fine day, we visited the good village of G.Ragampet.
The chill cold of January could not defeat us,
for we sat through all days long, aided by worthy faculty's coaxes.
Classes went on with serious thoughts and silly laughs,
as we all shared aspirations and fears,
Let a thousand troubles march at us all at once like an inevitable tide,
but with discretion, unity and a little luck, who knows, we may conquer all such bad-tidings and emerge as symbol of people's might!
"


"
G.Ragampet గ్రామాన్ని సందర్శించాము & Act, Fact and Tact ల మధ్య వుండే వ్యతాసాన్ని, విచక్షణని  తెలుసుకున్నాము. 
జనవరి నాటి వణికించే చలికి చలింపక 😆, గురువులిచ్చిన మనోధైర్యం తో రోజంతా క్లాస్ లో కూర్చున్నాము.
తీవ్రమైన ఆలోచనలు, చక్కటి చిరునవ్వుల తో సాగిన Training లో మన బాధలను, ఆశయాలను పంచుకున్నాము.
వెయ్యి సమస్యలు ఒకేసారి పెను ఉప్పెన లా ఎదురైనా, ఆ ఉప్పెన ని జయించే ఐకమత్యం, వివేచన, అదృష్టం మన సొంతమవ్వాలని మన ఉద్యోగం ప్రజలను ఆనందింపచేయాలని ఆకాంక్షిస్తూ.....
"





Maheeth Veluvali
Sunday - 2nd of February, 2020.
Palakollu.

  
 

Tuesday, January 14, 2020

Vikrama's lesser known temple

Vikramaditya VI (r.c.1076-1127 CE) is widely regarded as the greatest of Western Chalukyas. His reign is marked by the beginning of the Chalukya-Vikrama Era (c.1079 CE ?), and his celebrated patronage of arts and architecture. Temples and Inscriptions (often exaggerated) attributed to his grandeur dot the length and breadth of the modern Indian state of Karnataka. He Patronized poets like Bilhana (author of Vikramanakadeva Charitam). Kamaleshwara Temple/Iswara temple, located at Jalasangvi of Humnabad Taluka, Bidar District of Karnataka is one of the temples attributed to his reign. The temple pales in comparison, in terms of sheer size, with other celebrated gems of Chalukya-Vikrama Era (Itagi, Bellary etc,.). But, the sculptural excellence achieved here in carving various Madanika/Apsara/Salabhanjika Bracket figures is extraordinary, and is a precursor to the celebrated sculpture of later day Kakatiya and Hoyasala temples.

Jalasangvi Iswara/Kamaleshwara Temple

Madanika playing with Parrot

I had the blessed opportunity to visit this serene and simple temple during one Sunday of January, before the Sankranthi festival chaotically translates into a sensory over-drive. From the central bus station of Bidar, the city of whispering monuments, I took  Humnabad bus to Jalasangvi Cross road for a charge of Rs.55/-. The journey took almost 40-45 minutes. And from the cross road, a gentleman on bike dropped me off at the temple, which is just 10 minutes away, located in the interior of the village.

Sculpture - at the temple
AshtaBhuja Ganesha

I'm largely disappointed with the lack of awareness regarding this historical temple. Not even a single information board is set here to enlighten an enthusiastic tourist. Yet the sculptures speak to your soul! The temple is built on a star shaped raised platform - an attribute gleefully embraced by later day Kakatiyas. As I made the Pradakshina, I noticed the brilliantly carved Gods and Apsaras - Lord Vishnu, Lord Shiva, Goddess Rakta Kali/Chamunda, Goddess Durga flanked by beautiful Madanika/Apsaras as bracket figures. A rare sculpture of 8 headed Ganesha (Ashta Bhuja Vinayaka) flanked by the piece de resistance of the temple - Shilabalika/ShasanaSundari/Patralekhini i'e 
A graceful & mythological apsara/madanika drafting an eulogising epigraph on her patron, Vikramaditya VI is extraordinary. The lovely lady inscribes what appears to be Sanskrit words in early Kannada Script - 'Saptadveepodaree Bhutam Bhutalam Sweekarishyati Chalukya Vikramaditya Saptamo Vishnuvardhanaha' i.e, 'Vikramaditya of Chalukya Dynasty captured and is ruling the land containing seven islands'.

Shasanasundari

Now was that eulogy true? Don't know.
Was it exaggeration? Maybe. 
But is it beautiful? Definitely yes.





12 January 2020.
Jalasangvi.   

Tuesday, December 31, 2019

My 2019




In the cold winter mornings, seeds of self doubt crept into my numbing mind,
a new year began – the last in the decade of an ever testing kind.
Great enthusiasm matched with even greater failures,
But life went on, unaware of the abyss that lurks and lures.

A self realized lust for travel intertwined with a curious quest;
I journeyed into the ancient realms of yore, at my humble and humorous best.
I was a part of a raging huge crowd, yet I prized my solitude.
Between beautiful dreams and harsh realities, I moved seamlessly with a weird attitude.

What changes now? Nothing but a new calendar and a fancy new year with a rhythmic zing,
New experiences - some good, some bad, - to be faced without a sting. 
But, all the lessons learnt would not be forgotten, as I bid adieu to the bygone year;
and start afresh - my flirty tryst with twenty twenty, old and wise but still so young and foolish - with a silent cheer!












Saturday, December 14, 2019

The Enlightened One

Temptations of Mara Panel - Gautama Buddha in Bhumisparsha Mudra, cave 26 of Ajanta - c.5th Century CE

(Based on the 'Temptations of Mara' panel inside Cave 26 - dated c.5th Century CE, of Ajanta Caves, Maharashtra,  which depicts Gautama Buddha in his famous 'Bhumisparshamudra', in deep penance, ignoring the threatening goblins and the tempting daughters of the demon Mara)

An army of goblins created a reckless ruckus,
their shrill deafening voices filled with ugly roughness. 
Curses, trumpets and drums failed to dampen the spirit
of the lone mortal, set to attain a blameless merit.

To that man, an avalanche of slander meant nothing.
Then - bejeweled and bewitching, they apperared, dipped in beauty, shaking;
the beautiful daughters of the great demon set to entice him,
yet they've failed beautifully, their pride taking a nasty skim.

At the cusp of glory, the man waited and bid his time,
Neither temptations nor warnings could dampen the ambition so selfless and prime.
Centuries later;
when pressures all around seize my senses, I think of this panel -  
of the enlightened one, the mortal turned divine, before I turn into a vandal.










Monday, November 11, 2019

there would never be another Seshan...

TN Seshan in 1994 (File Pic), Wikipedia

A nation of millions shook in the nervous nineties -
in an era of political gimmicks punctured by electoral malpractices.
But one man rose from the corridors of power,
and an institution was rebuilt from scratch, so the corrupt could cower.

Cards of Identity to the embattled voters;
the good changes invited crass curses from those with vested powers.
Pitched battles were fought for the victory of truth, in consecutive annals;
Be it Punjab or Bihar - the commission's word was perfectly final.

A culture of adherance to rules began on the high altar of democracy -
for once, the dumb millions shook with happy pride despite the official obstinacy.
Elections will come and go like seasons; - mother nature's variation
but there would never be another Seshan for this gigantic nation!



Tirunellai Narayana Iyer Seshan (1932-2019), popularly called TN Seshan was the tenth Chief Election Commissioner of India (1990-96) whose adherence to rules, style of functioning and electoral reforms are a stuff of legends - under him, the Election Commission of India became one of the glorified Constitutional institutions running on the pillars of Transparency and Accountability, winning universal public acclaim and respect, but also earning him brickbats form unscrupulous elements (i.e, the political class who always bent the rules during elections)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T._N._Seshan 
Picture above - Credits to Rishabh Tatiraju from Wikipedia