My travels is all about... My views, thoughts and experiences on/about/at/with random places of interest, persons, things, events, issues etc,. I am an eternal student with a restless mind and a tumultuous heart!

Friday, July 13, 2018

Amarāvatī


Thorny bushes on both sides of the road, an endless track of bumpy & dusty land with the distant hills greeted me once I crossed Velagapudi which houses the new Secretariat of the Government of Andhra Pradesh. A few hamlets later, finally there was the sight of this town – Amarāvatī, the former capital of Satavahanas, the town which is included and lends its name to the new and future capital of Andhra Pradesh.

Fashioned after the capital city of the mythical ‘King of Gods’ Devendra, Amarāvatī  is located on the Southern banks of River Krishna (sadly almost always dried up except during the Rainy season). This town which was continuously inhabited since the 5th Century BCE posseses a single main road. On the Southern end of this road is the famous & historical temple dedicated to Lord Shiva as Amareshwara, one of the Pancharama Kshetras with the adjacent Amareswaram Ghat. On the other end is the famous Heritage Museum and bus-stop. Another connecting road intersects this main road almost in the centre – the 301 route through which busses ply to Vijayawada.

New Gautama Buddha Statue at the Dhyana Buddha Park

The Ruins of the Old Mahachaitya

Gopuram of Amareshwara Swamy Temple, (Under Renovation)

The town has three museums – the famous Heritage museum, the Archeological museum and the Ruins of the Mahachaitya in a nearby village called Dharanikota. A new park was developed recently, which houses a gigantic Statue of Gautama Buddha in Aasana (Sitting Posture).This was the capital of the Satavahanas, great patrons of art & architecture, during whose reign Buddhism flourished (c.2nd Century BCE – 2nd Century CE). The most interesting aspect of Amarāvatī  is that it is the birth-place of  Amarāvatī Sculpure, a school of art dealing with distinct Buddhist Sculptures, Marbles, Stupas etc, examples of which exist in the museums. The Jataka tales, life of Buddha were depicted in various Sculptures & Carvings in intricate panels – for this reason Amarāvatī Sculpure is considered as a Piece de Resistance in Ancient Indian Sculpture!

Example of
Amarāvatī Sculpture - Dharmachakra Stupa Worship


Example of Amarāvatī Sculpture - Yakshini


Example of Amarāvatī Sculpture -A Jataka tale

On my return, I’ve overheard two men speaking in Telugu in distinct Guntur slang. One of them complained that the old town Amarāvatī was not getting enough attention, tourism etc. The other one sounded optimistic - ‘Eh, attla kadu mama, time kavala. Nuvvu chustuvundoo’ (‘Not like that, It’s all in time. You wait and watch’)

It was sheer destiny that Amarāvatī lost its relevance for many centuries. It is apt now that the new capital is located here. Who decides how, when & which empires, nations, states or capitals rise and fall? Perhaps, it’s all in the time, as that old gentleman remarked!


Monday, 9th of July, 2018
Amarāvatī.
  

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

The Big Temple



An enticing architectural spirit is one of the things that comes to mind when one thinks of the Cholas in Indian History, apart from their efficient local-self government and the military exploits of the royal father-son duo of Raja Raja I and Rajendra. The most recognizable aspect of this spirit is the Brihadeeswara Temple (RajaRaja Temple/Thanjai Periya Kovil dedicated to Lord Shiva, built by Raja Raja Chola I, c.1003-1010 CE) of Thajavur.  And so, one fine afternoon, we visited the legendary and historical temple. Located near the Main Bus Stand (Old Bus stand), this temple is marked simply as ‘The Big Temple’ in various mile stones/sign boards in the city. As of June 2018, India houses 37 UNESCO World Heritage Sites & Brihadeeswara Temple is one such site, as a part of ‘The Great Living Chola Temples’.  A few steps inside and anyone would know why the tag is justified!
"Thanjai Periya Kovil" as seen sideways
 The first thing to notice is the sheer scale and size of this granite temple – the two welcoming Gopurams and the main Vimana of the Sanctum Sanctorum, surrounded by a moat (now dried) and a buffer grass /park area which are still intact. My brother remarked that this temple could be safer than the Thanjavur Palace and I couldn’t help but agree. Temples were not mere places of worship during Chola times, but also acted as cultural centres of learning & art, treasure houses of wealth and also as seats of true power. 
"The Big Temple" including Nandi

 Attached to the second Gopuram, a massive & long corridor for perambulation is judiciously endowed with the pristine carvings & murals. Within the temple, there are separate shrines and the one for 25 ton-monolithic statue of Nandi stands out – one of the biggest of it’s kind in India. The Sanctom Sanctorum is a piece de resistance – so spacious and awe-inspiring!  ‘Brihadeeswara’ i.e, great Lord – as the name itself indicates, the monolithic Lord Shiva Linga sculpture is one of the largest in the world.  On the walls of this 11th Century temple, inscriptions were carved in early Tamil and Sanskrit about details like temple upkeep.
A Fresco/mural inside the temple depicting Lord Shiva
A thousand years ago, when the temple was newly built, the Chola power was at it’s zenith – so much so that the  adjacent seas were transformed merely into a large ‘Chola Lake’, Lanka was subjugated, South East Asian Kingdoms willingly paid tributes and merchant ships from as far as China kowtowed before the Cholas for protection from Pirates. Giant strides were made in Culture & Self-Governance as well. A thousand years later, the temple stands, pristine and untouched by the excitement of visitors and admirers. 
The Vimana of the Temple
 It was an amazing experience, one to cherish!




@ Brihadeeswara Temple, Thanjavur on 30eth of June, 2018