The City of Whispering Monuments

One cannot help but notice a faint aroma of Medieval 'Je ne sais quoi' as one steps into Bidar. In Deccan, for almost 600 years, the city strategically survived in it's present form. It had it's moments of glory under the Bahmans (Ahmed Shah Al-Wali shifted the capital from Gulbarga to Bidar in 15th Century) and Barid Shahis, before the Great Mughal Aurangzeb annexed it to the Mughal Empire in late 17th Century. Located in the state of Karnataka, the city boasts a tolerant culture, craftily cutting across the twin perils of  region (very proximate to Telangana and Maharashtra) and religion (Monuments belonging to Hinduism, Islam and Sikhism). And we were looking at a marvel of history & culture, two weary but enthusiastic tourists - my brother and I.

Bidar Fort - Main entrance to the inner citadel

Ruins of the Old Fort

The major attraction is the Bidar Fort and the adjacent old ruins. The fort is truly awesome, formidable and a treat to witness. Ensconced within a moat and a double layered and long outer wall, the main citadel consists of a Museum, a dilapidated mosque (Solah Khamba), two large durbars (Diwan-I-Am and Diwan-I-Khas), the uniquely designed Tarkash Mahal, Rangeen Mahal and Takht Mahal (Royal Palace) apart from the ruins of another old fort. As we tagged inside we were happy to find a huge canon on a large wall tower within the fort - surely conquering such a fort required more luck than skill! The ruins of an old Madarassa and Mosque (now unsued) built by the famous Bahman Minister Mohammad Gawan is just a few steps away from the fort complex. Hard to believe that this was once a learning place of great repute, but that's history for you!

Gurudwara - Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib

En route to the Papanash Mahadev Temple

On Lohri, we visited the famous Gurudwara - Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib adjacent to the bus station. It's a wonderful experience as it was also our first visit to a Gurudwara. Two famous temples - one dedicated to Lord Shiva (Papanash Mahadev Temple - nestled superbly amidst lush green trees of hill slope) within the city and Lord Narasimha (Narasimha Jharna Cave Temple - wading through water in a cave to visit and pray to the deity) adjacent to the Telangana border are other must places to visit. Just 10 kilometers away from the city center at Ashtur, the giant tombs of Bahman Sultans offer a fascinating glimpse of the past. All the monuments are maintained with a great zeal, but we did hope that the Barid Shahi Tombs and garden inside the city could've been better protected. Bidar is also famous for the famous decorative metallurgy art of 'Birdriware'.

Bahman Tombs at Ashtur

After a mere two day sojourn, as our train slowly chugged into Andhra where the festive Sankrati rush is at a peak, I've truly understood why Bidar is called the city of 'Whispering Monuments', in the words of Colonel Hans Landa of Inglorious Basterds - 'Such a moniker is true and apt'.

A Grey Pelican's anguish

Grey Pelicans, also called Spot Billed Pelicans. By J.M.Garg - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5732107

(In the words of a Grey Pelican, a resident bird in the Kolleru Lake)

 

"A faint glimmer of hope makes me live in quest of an old paradise lost,

as my place gets encroached and my life gets tossed.

A Wildlife Sanctuary with no wildlife is the norm of the day, 

some thoughts for nature are not on the agenda, and the weak are just the prey.

Where did the lake disappear? Should I ask the industries or the fish ponds?

Nothing is more troubling than seeing your world shrink as no one responds.

Storks, Ibises, Teals and Pintails - My friends visit from far off places,

and I lost my pride as they mock my home, the worst of life's phases.

Are the champions of Ramsar listening our plight? 

If all's lost, I'm just an old bird incapable of flight.

In the land of the vanishing lake, everything is business as usual,

But when things get bad, don't blame the nature as cruel!"

A Bridge over Kolleru Lake IM3847 - Own work

Kolleru Lake (including the adjacent Atapaka Wildlife Sanctuary), a Ramsar Site, considered as one of India's largest inland Freshwater Lakes is in dire straits. A cursory search in Google maps or latest satellite reports indicate that most of the lake is encroached upon by Aquaculture, Agriculture, Industries (Ice Making et al) and due to natural factors (growth of weeds like Water Hyacinth and Elephant Grass). Despite the efforts of people like T Patanjali Sastry and a plethora of cases in the High Court of Andhra Pradesh, governments (Central as well as State) play a deaf ear to the environmental concerns, indulging in regular de notifying of the legal limits of the Lake. 

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolleru_Lake