Vikramaditya VI (r.c.1076-1127 CE) is widely regarded as the greatest of Western Chalukyas. His reign is marked by the beginning of the Chalukya-Vikrama Era (c.1079 CE ?), and his celebrated patronage of arts and architecture. Temples and Inscriptions (often exaggerated) attributed to his grandeur dot the length and breadth of the modern Indian state of Karnataka. He Patronized poets like Bilhana (author of Vikramanakadeva Charitam). Kamaleshwara Temple/Iswara temple, located at Jalasangvi of Humnabad Taluka, Bidar District of Karnataka is one of the temples attributed to his reign. The temple pales in comparison, in terms of sheer size, with other celebrated gems of Chalukya-Vikrama Era (Itagi, Bellary etc,.). But, the sculptural excellence achieved here in carving various Madanika/Apsara/Salabhanjika Bracket figures is extraordinary, and is a precursor to the celebrated sculpture of later day Kakatiya and Hoyasala temples.
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| Jalasangvi Iswara/Kamaleshwara Temple |
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| Madanika playing with Parrot |
I had the blessed opportunity to visit this serene and simple temple during one Sunday of January, before the Sankranthi festival chaotically translates into a sensory over-drive. From the central bus station of Bidar, the city of whispering monuments, I took Humnabad bus to Jalasangvi Cross road for a charge of Rs.55/-. The journey took almost 40-45 minutes. And from the cross road, a gentleman on bike dropped me off at the temple, which is just 10 minutes away, located in the interior of the village.
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| Sculpture - at the temple |
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| AshtaBhuja Ganesha |
I'm largely disappointed with the lack of awareness regarding this historical temple. Not even a single information board is set here to enlighten an enthusiastic tourist. Yet the sculptures speak to your soul! The temple is built on a star shaped raised platform - an attribute gleefully embraced by later day Kakatiyas. As I made the Pradakshina, I noticed the brilliantly carved Gods and Apsaras - Lord Vishnu, Lord Shiva, Goddess Rakta Kali/Chamunda, Goddess Durga flanked by beautiful Madanika/Apsaras as bracket figures. A rare sculpture of 8 headed Ganesha (Ashta Bhuja Vinayaka) flanked by the piece de resistance of the temple - Shilabalika/ShasanaSundari/Patralekhini i'e
A graceful & mythological apsara/madanika drafting an eulogising epigraph on her patron, Vikramaditya VI is extraordinary. The lovely lady inscribes what appears to be Sanskrit words in early Kannada Script - 'Saptadveepodaree Bhutam Bhutalam Sweekarishyati Chalukya Vikramaditya Saptamo Vishnuvardhanaha' i.e, 'Vikramaditya of Chalukya Dynasty captured and is ruling the land containing seven islands'.
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| Shasanasundari |
Now was that eulogy true? Don't know.
Was it exaggeration? Maybe.
But is it beautiful? Definitely yes.
12 January 2020.
Jalasangvi.
