@ The Eye of Mewar

 

@ Kumbhalgarh

(January 2026 - Kumbhal Fortress / Kumbhalgarh, Rajasamand District, Rajasthan)

Like happy maids accompanying a shy bride, the distant Aravallis offered a teasing glimpse at first. With each passing minute, they appeared much larger and more visible. It was my first time in Rajasthan, and I’m about to set my eyes on Kumbhal Fortress / Kumbhalgarh, the Eye of Mewar…   @ Ram Pol, Kumbhalgarh I sped through the dusty, long winding road from Udaipur, in a car, on an unusually hot January Day smitten by the vibrant yet turbulent past of Mewar; a mix of medieval history and popular myth. My cab driver Dileep asked if Chittorgarh was in my itinerary, and on my reply that it wasn’t, quipped with a smile - “गढ़ तो बस चित्तौढग़ढ़ बाकी सब गढ़ैया”   @ Ganesh Temple, Kumbhalgarh It was nearly afternoon when the destination arrived, almost a 70 Kms sojourn. Dal Bhati Churam Kumbhal Fortress / Kumbhalgarh is a Hill Fort abutting the Aravalli ranges in Rajasamand District of Rajasthan. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of the Six (6) Hill Forts of Rajasthan. It is the second most impressive fortress in Mewar region, and perhaps the most impregnable fortress in India. Commissioned by Maharaja Kumbhakarna Singh / Rana Kumbha, Sisodia Rana of Mewar, in 15th Century CE, the fort is known as 'Eye of Mewar' and is well noted for its 36 kms long Fort Wall / Fortification that is the longest in India and second longest in Asia / World, earning the well deserved moniker "Great Wall of India".  There are around 300 Jaina and 60 Hindu Temples within the Fortress, and Maharana Pratap of Mewar was born here. It is a worth visiting surreal Fortress that satisfies the lust of every thrill seeker and history lover. The view from the Fortress overlooking the extensive Great Wall of India, the Aravalli ranges and the Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary offered an exhilarating experience. @ Kumbhalgarh   On my return, I had the pleasure of savouring the iconic dish of Rajasthan, the Sumptuous Dal Bati Churma, which made me satisfied and sleepy. The iconic fortress gave way to the rusty and idyllic pass of Haldighati, the site of the namesake battle (18 June 1576 CE) fought between the numerically superior and materially prosperous Mughal Empire (led by  Raja Man Singh) and the fiercely Independent Mewar Kingdom (led by the famous Maharaja Maharana Pratap), regarded as Rajasthan's Thermopylae.     @ Aravallis

(To be Continued..) 

         

@ The Eye of Mewar.
Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
27th of February, 2026.

The Benevolent Ugra Narasimha

@ Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, Hampi

 

(Group of Monuments at Hampi - Vijayanagara, Vijayanagara District, Karnataka 

December 2024)

 

"Это Вишну

This is Vishnu"

A lively group of Russian tourists passed by on foot, when their guide finished description of the Vasihanava Insignia including Sudarshana Chakra and Panchajanya Conch in Russian. It was already late in the evening and we were exploring Hampi-Vijayanagara, the once crowned capital of Vijayanagara Samrajyamu, noted for it's grandeur and splendor, the likes of which the naked eye has never experienced, to quote Abdur Razaq, the Persian Safavid Ambassador in early 15th Century.

The Group of Monuments at Hampi is an iconic international tourist destination - one that beckons to the glory days of Vijayanagara Era (c.1336-1565 CE). One of the iconic monuments is an Idol.  

This so called Ugra Narasimha Idol is dedicated to Lord Sri Maha Vishnu in his Narasimha Avatar (Man-Lion). Hindu Scriptures speak of the devout Prahlada, who invokes Lord Sri Maha Vishnu. The Great God appeared in his Narasimha Avatar and slew Prahlada's father, the embodiment of  evil, Rakshasa Hiranya Kashyapa. As per an adjacent inscription, the idol was the sole surviving part of the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, commissioned by Krishna Bhatt, in c.1528 CE on the express instructions of the greatest Vijayanagara Emperor, Sri Krishna Devaraya. One would be amazed at the gulf between reality and perception - the idol is wrongly but popularly mentioned as Ugra Narasimha, with Ugra referring to fierce, but is originally Lakshmi Narasimha i.e, Narasimha with his consort, Goddess Lakshmi Devi.

 

The badly damaged Idol, the chopped off limb that could at one point of time seated Goddess Lakshmi Devi, could be due to the disastrous sack of Hampi after the Battle of Tallikota (c.1565 CE). The idol is located adjacent to the Bhadava Linga, a large Linga partially submerged in a well like small temple. "Bhadava" in Kannada means poor and the name ascribes to the installation of the Linga by a poor woman, but that is a tale for a different day!

 

The Benevolent Ugra Narasimha stood the test of time, although bereft of his beloved consort, continues to awe admirers from centuries and far off places, and would continue to do so.......

 

  

The Benevolent Ugra Narasimha

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
20eth of May, 2025.

The Sun Temple

 

The Jagmohana of Sun Temple, Konark

"Here, the language of Stone surpasses the language of man."
- Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore (c.1861-1941 CE) on The Sun Temple of Konark.

 

Langula Narasingha Deba I receiving African Merchants' Gift (Giraffe) - Arkha Kshetra

I have had the pleasure and honor of visiting the Sun Temple at Konark thrice (June/July 2019, November 2021 and June 2024) and it is a peerless experience. The Sun Temple of Konark is a ruined temple dedicated to Lord Surya / Lord Arka, the Sun God, located in the coastal town of Konark in Puri District of Odisha. It is the pinnacle of Kalinga Architecture and the most iconic monument of Odisha. The town and the Kshetra finds mention in the Brahma Purana as Konaditya, Arkha Kshetra, Padma Kshetra and in the Periplus of the Erythrean Sea as Kainapara. It is also associated with the legend of Samba's Curse in Bhagavatam and Mahabharatam. The temple in it's current state, owes it's existence to 'Langula' Narasingha Deba I, the King of Eastern Gangas who ruled from c.1238 CE to c.1264 CE. He succeeded his father, Anantavarman Chodagangadeba, of the Puri Jagannath Temple fame, and was consumed by a burning desire to match his father in construction zeal.

Crocodile consuming Fish themed faucet - Chhaya Devi Shrine

The main temple, completed c.1250 CE, was planned as the Chariot of Lord Surya, complete with Seven Horses and 24 Chakras i.e, spoked wheels, each divided into 8 equal parts representing Praharas i.e, divisions of time. Three separate icons, denoting Early Morning, Afternoon and Evening represent Lord Surya. Chalcolite, Khondalite  and Granite, sourced from the Eastern Ghats made up this 13th Century Monument. Some sources state that the Idol was in a suspended state, not touching the ground, owing to usage of Iron and Magnetism. A large Mandapa called the Nata Mandir, full of fantastic figurines of dancers, singers, mythical creatures, Mithun etc., welcomes us, followed by the main temple. It is a pity that only the Jagmohana i.e, Assembly Hall stands today, and the Deula is completely destroyed. The adjacent buildings attached to the temple like Bhoga Mandir, Chhaya Devi Mandir are also ruined. 

Nata Mandir

The recurring theme of Gaja-Simha is an interesting feature. Of the surviving sculptures, an Elephant trampling a condemned man evokes horror and awe in equal measure. At the shrine of Chhaya Devi, the faucet, shaped like a Crocodile eating a Fish seems so lifelike. As to why the temple was abandoned / ignored - mystery surrounds. Many theories exist viz, Invasion and desecration by Bengal Sultanate and later Mughals (plausible but not the only reason), lack of interest shown by successors, an alleged disagreement between the King and his Minister, proximity to Bay of Bengal causing decay, Konark losing it's prominence to Puri and Bhubaneshwar....the list goes on. The fact remains that, at it's prime, the temple was a source of elegance, envy and efficiency, fondly called as 'The Black Pagoda' by foreign travelers and traders.

Sun Temple, Konark

Today, the monument stands, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting the curious and the devout, a true icon of heritage. Indian Oil Corporation's Arkha Kshetra, an interpretation center offers brilliant insights into the temple and it's hoary past - a matter of pride, pain and passion.

A Chakra @ Sun Temple, Konark

Accessiblity 
Konark forms the Golden Triangle of Odisha / East Indian Tourism circuit, along with Puri (50 Kms) and Bhubaneshwar (60 Kms). It is a Notified Area Council Panchayat, accessible through road from either Puri (via Balukand - Konark Road running parallel to the Bay of Bengal and crossing Chandrabhaga River) or Bhubaneshwar. Tourist busses and Privately operated vehicles operate regularly to and from these three places. Konark also possesses the Chandrabhaga beach, India's and Asia's first Blue Flag certified beach (2018).

 

Us @ Sun Temple, Konark

"The Sun Temple" - on The Sun Temple, Konark

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 13th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali. 

The Taj Mahal

March 2023 CE (Chaitra 1945 SE) - Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh

"

An idyllic walk down the battered roads of Agra, by and by,

led to the Mausoleum of the Emperor's ladylove. 

And lo, this glittering monument of beauty,

more a symbol of skill and power, than love.

Pages of praise, poignant and poetic mark this Mahal's story, 

where medieval engineering married opulent endeavor.

The Mughals left, so did the British, with no sorry,

Yet this timeless grandeur flourishes with matchless measure.

The outward pointed Minars and the Bulbous Ivory White Double Dome,

the Pristine Pietra Dura  and the Joyful Jali work;

Here, the nightmares of reality are toyed by dreams that roam,

and sheer marvel and appreciation make their mark.

 

On the banks of Yamuna, refusing to be ravaged by the tests of time;

stands this Wonder of the World, in all glory and prime.  

 "    

"The Taj Mahal" - on Taj Mahal, Agra

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 08th of September, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.

Akbar's Abandoned Project

@ Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

Fathepur Sikri, Uttar Pradesh. - March, 2023
Fathepur Sikri is a city in Uttar Pradesh, located 43 kms away from Agra housing Mughal Monuments like imperial palace, Buland Darwaza, Sheikh Salim Chisti's Tomb, Jama Masjid, Pancha Mahal etc. Prima Facie, the dusty, dotted road connecting Agra with Jaipur offers a deceptively simple view of Fathepur Sikri - the brief capital of Great Mughals in 16th Century, a pet project of Akbar I (r.c.1556-1605 CE), and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Infact, the city was inhabited even before the advent of Mughals, right from the times of Sungas.

View from Buland Darwaza

@ Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

The red sandstone ramparts are dominated by Buland Darwaza, world's tallest gateway. Commissioned by Akbar after his conquest of Gujarat in c.1570s CE, standing at 55 meters / 177 feet, the gateway leads to the Jama Masjid of Fatehpur Sikri. The white marble encased tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti is a popular Dargah that attracts the devout. One must be wary of the wayside hawkers and self styled guides who seem to be omnipresent. The site offers great insights into Muhgal era lifestyle. Of particular interest is the five storied Pancha Mahal, with a gradual size decrease in each tier, an amalgamation of Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic styles. 

Treasury, Fatehpur Sikri

@ Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti

The Shabistan-I-Iqbal (wrongly called as Jodha Bhai's Palace), Turkish Queen's House, Treasury, Elephant Stables are other important places of interest. The Diwan-i-Aam (People's Assembly) as well as the lavish Diwan-i-Khaas, the quintessential Mughal buildings are also constructed.  It appears that the city was conceived in a grandiose way. One of the local guides pointed out a simple yet elegant Mughal creativity - air ducts embedded into walls that provide a breadth of fresh and cool air even in the heights of summer!  

Elephant Stables, Fathepur Sikri

Fathepur Sikri, at it's zenith matched Delhi and Agra and was the grandest Mughal city, citadel of Great Mughals under Akbar. However, the city was abandoned later on, during Akbar's time itself. In the words of British traveler William Finch, "it is all ruinate, lying like a waste desert" (c.1610s CE). The reason for the abandonment was simple - water! The lack of planning and execution regarding water supply spelt doom and caused disinterest in Akbar, making Fatehpur Sikri his most ambitious abandoned project. 

Pancha Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri

One would fervently hope that the planners of the modern smart cities are aware of Fathepur Sikri!

Akbar's Abandoned Project - on Fathepur Sikri

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 28th of July, 2024

Maheeth Veluvali. 

Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

@ Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

The Descent of the Ganges, also called Arjuna's Penance, a large open air rock relief, is just a stone's throw away from the Bus station of Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram in Chengalpattu District of Tamil Nadu. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram. This Great relief is a work of art. Commissioned by the Pallava King 'Mahamalla' NarasimhaVarman I in mid 7th Century CE after his defeat of Chalukya Pulakesin II, carved by Mandhatar, a renowned sculptor, the relief is the pinnacle specimen of the then workmanship, skill and human endeavor. Measuring 96*43 feet (29*13 m), and spread over two adjacent monolithic rock boulders, it is the largest open air bas relief in India. 

@ Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

What does the relief mean? There are two different interpretations to this -

Firstly, it depicts the legendary Descent of the Ganges, wherein ascetic Sage Bhagiratha pleases Lord Shiva to bring forth waters of river Ganges onto the Earth. This feat is watched by Celestial beings of heaven, all sorts of wild animals. Infact, the carving of life size Elephants along with calves in terrific. A lengthy opening between the two boulders contains Naga images, representing the river in a crafty and creative way. Incidentally, this is the most accepted and popular interpretation. 

Another interesting interpretation is based on the celebrated Epic Mahabharata and Bharavi's Sanskrit treatise, Kiratarjuneeyam. As per this, the ascetic in question is not Bhagiratha, but Arjuna, who went on to attain the Divine Weapon, Pasupata-Astra from Lord Shiva. 

In the bottom central portion of the relief, a Cat tries to copy the ascetic's penance to lure any nearby rodents - a humorous Panchatantra tale that warns people to be wary of false ascetics. Further, Sage Agastya is also shown along with disciples, near a small shrine. This is another creative allegory - Agastya is regarded as destroyer of the demon Vatapi in Hindu lore, an attribute with which 'Mahamalla' NarasimhaVarman I would associate, as Vatapigaikondan i.e, Conqueror of Vatapi (Vatapi was also called Badami - the capital of Chalukyas).  

Whatever be the interpretation, Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance continues to capture the attention and admiration of the masses and scholars alike!

   "Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance" 

   16 Saladi Jamindar Street,

   Palakollu. 

   Tuesday, 16th of July, 2024.

   Maheeth Veluvali

The legacy of the Gangikondan

Lateral View

 

On the morning of the 21st of October, 2021, I had the humble pleasure of visiting Arulmigu Perudaivar Kovil / Brihadisvara Temple of Gangaikonda Cholapuram, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Located in the present day district of Ariyalur of Tamilnadu, the temple is attributed to the greatest among Imperial Cholas, Rajendra I, dated early 11th Century CE. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of the Great Living Chola Temples, along with the more famous namesake temple at Tanjore and the Airavatesvara Swamy temple of Darasuram. Unlike the big temple of Tanjore, this temple is comparatively small, but more peaceful and attracts lesser devotees / tourists. Nevertheless, it is an architectural and sculptural wonder!

 

The remote location and blissful atmosphere adds an essence of aura to this marvel. At the entrance, supported by a large wall, there is a small Dhwaja-Sthamba and a rather sharply carved Nandi. The sancutm sanctorum inside the distinct and tall Dravida style Vimana can be approached by a long passageway inside the single main mandapa. The idol of Lord Shiva is a large Linga. On the walls of the temple, there are beautiful carvings and niches of various Gods, but mostly dedicated to various forms of Lord Shiva like Bhikshatanamurthi, Nataraja. There are separate shrines in the temple complex dedicated to Lord Ganesa, Goddess Durga and Nayanar saints. 

Nandi Pavilion

 

But one frieze/relief caught my attention - on the north-east wall of the temple, there exists the Chandesanugrahamurthi / Rajendra Chola I pattabhishekham panel which has two different interpretations - As Chandesanugrahamurthi, a feature of South Indian Saiva temples, wherein Lord Shiva, flanked by Goddess Parvati is blessing Chandeshvara Nayanar, the celebrated Nayanar Bhakti saint. The other plausible explanation is that the carving actually belongs to Rajendra Chola I, coronated / garlanded by Lord Shiva, watched by Goddess Parvati - the subtle hints of the cementing of the Devaraya cult. 

Chandesangrahamurthi / Rajendra Pattabhishekam

 

No one knew why Rajendra decided to build the temple and the surrounding village of Gangaikonda Cholapuram - the true source of power of Imperial Cholas for a period of 250 years. As I roamed in the premises of the great temple, I realised that I was walking on the legacy of the Gangaikondan - the greatest among Imperial Cholas, whose armies would campaign on the banks of river Ganges, and whose navies would invade South-East Asia. At that point of time, the Chola emperor was the single most powerful man of South Asia and South-East Asia. 

 

 

Gangaikonda Cholapuram

 

Maheeth Veluvali, 

Monday - 25th of October, 2021.  

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.