Vikramaditya's Ujjain

Me @ Mahakal

(January 2026 - Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh) 

It is said that no poet could describe a city as opulent and lavish as Kalidasa, the greatest Sanskrit Dramatist described Ujjain in his magnum opus, Meghaduta. Kalidasa stood on the banks of River Kshipra, at the Zenith of India's Golden Age (The Gupta Era, c.320-550 CE), wondering that the city is a role model of heaven on earth, and could disappear in an instant, returning to heaven. To this day, this myth prevails and people from surrounding areas are wary of an overnight stay in this city. And I had the great fortune of visiting this celestial city, the abode of Lord Shiva, as Maha Kal, the one unconstrained by the travails of time and space. 

@Kala Bhairav Temple

@ Mangalnath

Ujjain, formerly Avantika is a historical and spiritual city located in Malwa region of Madhya Pradesh, on the banks of River Kshipra, through which the Tropic of Cancer passes. It is one of the Sapta Puri i.,e seven holiest Hindu cities, and is a popular pilgrimage site. It was the capital and grandest city of the Gupta Era, under the capable, aesthetic and popular reign of Chandragupta II Vikramaditya, and is one of the oldest cities that had been in continuous existence since times immemorial.

@ Gadh Kalika Devi Temple

@ Sandipani Ashram

The Mahakaleshwar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, as Maha Kal is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga Saiva Temples, noted for it's early morning Bhasma Arti ritual, and is the only major Saiva temple where the Shiva Linga is South facing. I booked an online Sheegra Darshan ticket and had a hassle free darshan, that took less than an hour. It was a truly divine experience to catch a glimpse of, and offer humble salutations to Lord Shiva. The recently renovated Maha Kal Lok Corridor surrounding the temple offers is a fantastic piece de resistance, soothing for an evening walk, resplendent with lighting and various Puranic sculptures representing Lord Shiva and his deeds. 

@ Vikramaditya Teela

There are many other temples and shrines in the city. The Temple of Gadh Kalika Devi, the Kul Devi of Kalidasa, is one of the Ashtadasa Shakti Peethas. Maa Harsiddha Temple is another iconic temple and is associated with Shaktism. Sree Mangalnath Temple - India's only temple dedicated to Mars / Mangal, on the banks of River Kshipra attracts huge crowds. Kal Bhairav Temple, Guardian of Ujjain, located a far is known for the offering (Prasad) of Alcohol. The Sandipani Ashram is associated with the epics Bhagavatam and Mahabharatham, and is the Ashram of Sage Sandipani, the Acharya of Lord Shri Krishna, Balarama and Sudama / Kuchela. Ujjain's beauty lies in it's versatility, where aesthetic excellence and scientific spirit coexisted, as vouched for by the presence of Arya Bhatta, Varahamihira among the Navratnas and the Jantar Mantar commissioned by Raja Sawai Jai Singh of Amber in 17th Century. 

   

@ Jantar Mantar

During the evening, Kshipra Harati at Ram Ghat offers a rejuvenating and blissful experience with the active participation of  the locals and the devout. One of the interesting features of this Kshetra is that the Maha Prasad never goes to waste. Ujjain is the ideal city, ruled by the ideal king, Vikramaditya, ever blessed by the Lord of time himself, and is etched forever in the annals of Indian history and spirituality. 

Vikramaditya's Ujjain - On Ujjain

Maheeth Veluvali, 

Monday, 13th of April, 2026.

Palakollu

The Thermopylae of Rajasthan

(A Poetic Tribute to the famous Battle of Haldighati, fought between the numerically superior and materially prosperous Mughal Empire led by Raja Man Singh and the fiercely Independent Mewar Kingdom led by the famous Maharana Pratap, on 18th June, 1576 CE. The battle is regarded as the Themopylae of Rajasthan for the heroic last stand of Mewar.) 

The Forts of Rajputana shook at the Great Mughals' gumption

with new allies and old foes all seeking redemption.

Yet, on the turmeric colored pass, Mewar's Rana stood tall;  

For his warriors, the battle's a game, with no fear of fall. 

@ Museum, Haldighati

Men, Horses, Elephants all set for glory; 

Ambition clashed with courage, and the result's very gory. 

Near the impregnable Kumbhalgarh, a tryst with blood  was sought,

and with Saffron clad frenzy, the outnumbered Rana's troops fought. 

 

Me at Haldighati Pass

But the forces of the Emperor's trusted lieutenant were not ill prepared,  

and the deadly battle raged on, with hell's cynical glare.  

The adjacent pond became redder and redder with each passing minute;

The victors and vanquished became inseparable with no escape route 

Me at Haldighati

Then at that fateful movement, the noble & sweet stallion Chetak was wounded;

With worse to come, with all hope lost, the Rana’s forces were rounded. 

The Bhils rallied behind Rana, but the battle was long over,  

The bloody day ended, but the battle and the warriors’ deeds remain etched in Mewar’s folkore. 

Samadhi of Chetak, Halighati

"The Thermopylae of Rajasthan" (Poem /Poetic Tribute/ English) 

Maheeth Veluvali, 

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 

Palakollu. 

Friday, 20eth of March, 2026.

@ The Eye of Mewar

 

@ Kumbhalgarh

(January 2026 - Kumbhal Fortress / Kumbhalgarh, Rajasamand District, Rajasthan)

Like happy maids accompanying a shy bride, the distant Aravallis offered a teasing glimpse at first. With each passing minute, they appeared much larger and more visible. It was my first time in Rajasthan, and I’m about to set my eyes on Kumbhal Fortress / Kumbhalgarh, the Eye of Mewar…   @ Ram Pol, Kumbhalgarh I sped through the dusty, long winding road from Udaipur, in a car, on an unusually hot January Day smitten by the vibrant yet turbulent past of Mewar; a mix of medieval history and popular myth. My cab driver Dileep asked if Chittorgarh was in my itinerary, and on my reply that it wasn’t, quipped with a smile - “गढ़ तो बस चित्तौढग़ढ़ बाकी सब गढ़ैया”   @ Ganesh Temple, Kumbhalgarh It was nearly afternoon when the destination arrived, almost a 70 Kms sojourn. Dal Bhati Churam Kumbhal Fortress / Kumbhalgarh is a Hill Fort abutting the Aravalli ranges in Rajasamand District of Rajasthan. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of the Six (6) Hill Forts of Rajasthan. It is the second most impressive fortress in Mewar region, and perhaps the most impregnable fortress in India. Commissioned by Maharaja Kumbhakarna Singh / Rana Kumbha, Sisodia Rana of Mewar, in 15th Century CE, the fort is known as 'Eye of Mewar' and is well noted for its 36 kms long Fort Wall / Fortification that is the longest in India and second longest in Asia / World, earning the well deserved moniker "Great Wall of India".  There are around 300 Jaina and 60 Hindu Temples within the Fortress, and Maharana Pratap of Mewar was born here. It is a worth visiting surreal Fortress that satisfies the lust of every thrill seeker and history lover. The view from the Fortress overlooking the extensive Great Wall of India, the Aravalli ranges and the Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary offered an exhilarating experience. @ Kumbhalgarh   On my return, I had the pleasure of savouring the iconic dish of Rajasthan, the Sumptuous Dal Bati Churma, which made me satisfied and sleepy. The iconic fortress gave way to the rusty and idyllic pass of Haldighati, the site of the namesake battle (18 June 1576 CE) fought between the numerically superior and materially prosperous Mughal Empire (led by  Raja Man Singh) and the fiercely Independent Mewar Kingdom (led by the famous Maharaja Maharana Pratap), regarded as Rajasthan's Thermopylae.     @ Aravallis

(To be Continued..) 

         

@ The Eye of Mewar.
Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
27th of February, 2026.

Around Sri Kshetra, In awe of the Goddesses of Puri..

(Puri District, Odisha, October 2023)

Me at Gangeswari Temple, Bayalish Bati, Erabanga - Gop

 

It was the first time that I got into a State Government operated MO bus from Puri to Bhubaneshwar, and after getting down at Gop Bus stop, I reached the scenic and unassuming village of Bayalish Bati, literally meaning the village of forty houses. Away from the hustle and bustle of the Golden Triangle of Odisha tourism, the little village possesses the temple of Maa Gangeshwari Devi, the kul devi of the Eastern Gangas of Kalinga. 

 

Lord Surya, the Sun God on his seven horse chariot - on the backside of Barahi Deula, Chaurasi

The temple seems forgotten, with thick shrubs and creepers making their mark on the Deula. The Eastern Gangas, at their zenith (c.11th-14th Centuries), with stalwart kings like Aanantavarman Chodagangadeva, Langula Narasingha Deba, were responsible for the proliferation and perfection of Kalinga style of Rekhi architecture, with Puri and Konark remaining the greatest examples. A legend refers to Bayalish Bati as a village of architects and sculptors including Sebei Mahapatra, of Konark Sun Temple fame. The temple at this village could have been a prototype of the more famous Sun Temple of Konark. The sculptures and images, including Saptamatrikas, Mithun, and especially Varahi Devi are amazing. 

Barahi Deula, Chaurasi, Lateral View

 

The Varahi Temple / Barahi Deula located in Chaurasi village of Prachi river valley,  located on Nimpada - Katakpur road is another interesting temple. Attributed to Somavamsa Gajapatis of Early 9th Century CE, the main idol in the sanctum santorum is dedicated to Goddess Matsya Varahi, representing Tantricism and Saktism, and is unique. Seated in lalitasana, the divine woman with a boar head and a Kapala and Fish in each hand, invokes awe. The temple itself is planned on Khakhara model, with Sandstone material and  images like Lord Surya, the Sun God driving his seven horsed chariot are arresting. Bhog (Mahaprasada) of Jagannatha Temple is taken to this temple everyday.

 

Inside the Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur

 

The Chausath Yogini Temple / Mahamaya Temple, is located 20 Kms away from the capital of Bhubaneshwar, and is another unique, but lesser known masterpiece. Yoginis are mythical, auspicious practicioners of Tantra and Yoga, associated with Sanatana Dharma and Buddhism. This little,  hypaethral, circular shaped shrine is dedicated to the 64 Yoginis (Hence the name Cahusath i.e, 64), with most of the images in a damaged state. Sadly, there is no proper maintenance. Eastern India, since ancient times was a stronghold of Shaktism and Tantricism and this temple is a living proof. This is the oldest Yogini temple in India, dated c.864 CE, commissioned by Queen Hiradevi of Bhouma Dynasty. A famous local legend ascribes to Goddess Durga taking 64 forms to defeat demons and now consecrated as Mahamaya Devi, the main deity of this temple.  

A Yogini inside the Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur

It was a fruitful day for me, as I got to offer obeisance to the Goddesses of these iconic temples, and to witness the unsung glory of Kalinga.

 

Me Outside the Chausath Yogini Temple, Hirapur

 

Around Sri Kshetra, In awe of the Goddesses of Puri..

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
11th of June, 2025.

The Hill Fort

(Kondapalli Fort, November2023) 

 

Me at the Fort

To the north of river Krishna, to the West of the city of Vijayawada, lies the village of Kondapalli, literally meaning hill village / hamlet / settlement. The irregular Eastern Ghats touch the banks of River Krishna, and the fertile Godavari-Krishna Delta ends here. The village is noted for Kondapalli Toys, sourced from local soft wood called Tella Poniki. It also houses the eponymous Fort of Kondapalli. Together with Kondaveedu Fort, it is a well noted Fort of Andhra Pradesh, that harks back to Medieval ages.

Ruins

The fort had humble origins, and was reportedly in existence during the fall of the Kakatiyas in c.1323 CE. Sources attribute it to various fighting factions and feudal dynasties viz, Mudigonda Chanakyas, Musunuri Nayakas. During 14th Century CE, a new dawn arrived in Andhra Desa, however shortlived. Under Prolaya Vema Reddy, the Independent Reddi Kingdom emerged and Kondapalli's stature rose, as a central location of Telugus in an increasingly fragmented polity. The next centuries lent much credence to Kondapalli's prominence, as Suryavamsa Gajapatis of Kalinga held sway, followed by Qutubshahis of Golconda, short lived Mughal Suzerainty, AsafJhais (Nizam) of Hyderabad, and eventually,  the fort turned into a military bastion and garrison under the British.  

A Qutub Shahi Inscription

In 15th Century, when the tripartite struggle peaked between the Bahmani Sultanate, Rayas of Vijayanagar and Suryavamsa Gajapatis of Kalinga, Kondapalli changed hands frequently, and was initially captured by Hamvira Routraya of Kalinga, feat replicated half a century later by Sri Krishna Devaraya in his famed Kalinga campaign (c.1513-1520 CE). Kondaplli marked the Southern extent of Gajapatis. 

Entrance to Fort

Today, the ruins and ramparts of the fort offer a picturesque site, and it is accessible on foot from the village of Kondaplli through the Toys Street,  as well as by road from Ibrahimpatnam, with the Ghat road dotted by Quarry lorries on a long queue. The Darwazas, ruined Jail Khana, Tanisha Palace with chambers, offer a sombre sight, pointing to a lost era. There is a huge scope for development, and the State Government of Andhra Pradesh has taken due note of it, vide it's new Tourism Policy. 

   

Kondapalli Doll

 

The Hill Fort

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
31st of May, 2025.

     

The 'Jewel Box' of Agra

Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 (Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, Agra, Uttar Pradesh - March 2023)

The itinerary that was supposedly planned for me by the auto wallah was modified with my caveat - that I'd like to visit the tomb of Itimad Ud Daula. From the perspective of Agra Cantonment Railway Station (locally called 'Chavani'), and regarding tourists in general, this monument is usually skipped as people remain in perpetual awe and throng the Taj Mahal in droves ignoring other lesser known places. It is located across the Yamuna river, a bit far from Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. The auto passed through the dusty lanes of Agra, bypassing sweet shops selling Petha. Agra wasn't modern in any sense, and the civic amenities are found lacking. And, one fine late March morning, I stood before the Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, and I was the only visitor there.

Me @ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

There are three iconic monuments of Mughal Architecture, primarily and loosely based on the Tomb of Tamelane in Uzbekistan :-

1. Tomb of Humayun

2. Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

3. The Taj Mahal 

@ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

The first two were commissioned by women and the third was in memory of a woman. The tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, built between 1622 and 1628 CE, was commissioned by Nur Jahan, Consort of  Emperor Jahangir, in memory of her father, Mirza Ghais Baig, a noble who started his career under Akbar, the Great. The noble was honoured as 'Itimad Ud Daula' i.e, "pillar of the state".  The building, essentially a mausoleum, marks a paradigm in Mughal architechture, as the Red Sandstone was replaced by White Marble. By early 17th Century, the Mughals were an established power in North India, with their confidence aided by imperial consolidation reflected in their buildings.

@ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

The mausoleum's exterior is betrayed by it's rich interior. The European technique of 'Pietra Dura' was first applied here, wherein exquisite precious stones and gems were used in creating beautiful paintings and decoration, often embellished in the form of flower vases, symmetrical objects etc,. The minarets and the overall façade point to a methodical and mathematical precision. Few years later, the tomb would inspire the Taj Mahal, now a Wonder of the World. Verily, it stands up to the moniker, ‘Baccha Taj / Baby Taj’ and ‘Jewel Box’.   

 

Pietra Dura Work @ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

The 'Jewel Box' of Agra

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
24th of May, 2025.