A coward's march to victory...

(For almost 500 years, the dynasty of Eastern Chalukyas ruled from Vengi, Bikkavolu and Rajamahendravaram - all in modern day Andhra Pradesh. Most of the time, they were forced to play second fiddle to competitors like Cholas, Western Chalukyas, Eastern Gangas, Rashtrakutas and were relegated as tax paying feudatories.Yet, for some brief time during the 9th Century, facing insane odds, their greatest emperor Gunaga Vijayaditya rose to prominence, which gave a semblance of respect to them. Gunaga's generals went on to defeat Rashtrakutas, subdjugate rebel feudals and these 'Chanda Chalukyas' had no opponent from Pulicat Lake to the Vindhya mountains. But, Gunaga had a rough beginning - he had to face a civil war against rival claimants and relatives. Initially, he had to flee the kingdom and wandered as a depressed coward with little hope, waiting and waiting...In his own words)

Warriors (Stone/Rock) - Eastern Chalukyas - Kakinada Museum

I wonder why 'Victory' was added to my name, and I never tasted even a little success?
A cruel joke of destiny, that's played on me, a petty pawn in the game of chess.
I'm cast away like a shipwrecked man, and I thought I was a Prince loved by all.
Now, I realize they only lust after power, and I'm just a pampered naive doll.

Armies of all kingdoms from all directions raid our beloved cities for tributes and glory,
But our forces only take sides in disastrous succession battles - what a  tomfoolery!
My ancestors held lofty titles - all nice lies, their bulging fragile egos overspent...
And here I am, their grand successor, wandering in forests, pursued by my own men.

An uncertain life of a Prince in exile - that's what that's before me,
A clueless coward or a cunning conspirator ? Right now, I'm just a survivor per se,
My life is in dark, let the dawn come and I'll live through hell if need be,
Let the beasts of the forest be a testimony of this coward's march to victory!

One of the ruined temples supposedly built by Gunaga Vijayaditya at Bikkavolu (c.9th Century CE)

In and around Tadipatri - The hidden gems of a forgotten empire

Inside Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

Mini Carving at Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

A consistent rain coupled with vast landscapes of broken slabstones and carved hillocks greeted me on my one day sojourn to Tadipatri and surrounding places. If the historian Robert Sewell passionately called the Vijayanagara Empire (c.1336-1670s CE) as 'The Forgotten Empire', then the temples of Tadipatri could very well be the hidden gems of a forgotten empire - these could escape the destruction brought on Hampi after the Battle of Tallikota (c.1565 CE), yet remain passively outside the scope of fame attained by the magnificent ruins of Hampi.

Sculpture inside Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Salabhanjika Sculpture, Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple

Tadipatri
Tadipatri (Literally Palm Leaf in Telugu) is located in Anantapur district. During the glory days of Vijayanagara Rayas, their feudatories - Pemmasani Nayakas controlled the town and it's surrounding areas. Two temples built by these feudatories survive to this day. The first one, originally planned in 14th Century CE and dedicated to Lord Shiva is the Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy Temple. Two half-built gopurams adorn this brilliant temple located on the banks of River Penna. The Sculptures, especially the welcoming Salabhanjika lady on  the archways of the temple gopurams is wonderfully detailed. On one of the walls, we could distinctly observe the Imperial Royal Insignia of Vijayanagara Empire.

Imperial Royal Insignia of Vijayanagara Empire inside Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Chintala Rayaswamy/VenkataRamanaswamy Temple is built as per Vaishnava tradition, and is dedicated to Lord Venkateswara. Just like the Vijaya Vitthala temple of Hampi, there is a Garuda Ratha here too i.e, Stone Chariot. And akin to the ruined Hazara Ramalaya of Hampi, the walls of the temple have mini carvings and engravings of tales from Ramayana. The temple is thus, simply a sublime architectural tribute to those two fantastic yet ruined temples of Hampi. Watching the black granite sculptures set in a gentle drizzle - that's a brilliant experience.

Garuda Ratha - Stone Chariot at Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

At Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

Yaganti
11 kms away from Banganapalle of Kurnool district, Yaganti is famous for it's two temples and three caves. Although originally a Chalukyan site, the place rose to prominence during the reign of Sangam Bukka Raya I of Vijayanagara Empire. A huge pond (Koneru), a supposedly ever raising stone Nandi (Bull, vahana of Lord Shiva) are the major attractions at the Uma Maheswara (Shiva) temple located here. Sankara Cave, associated with cult of seer Potuluri Veerabhrahmendra Swamy (the Telugu Nostradamus) and a shrine dedicated to Lord Venkateswara within a cavern are other major places of interest. Set amidst Reddish Sandstone hills, Yaganti offer a glimpse of glory to nature lovers.

Nandavaram
I did not intend to see any other place, but got to visit this place on a whim. Located 10 kms away from Banaganapalle on Nandyala road, the village has a famous temple dedicated to Chowdeswari Devi, a local cult deity. A ruined temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is another interesting temple here.

Koneru at Yaganti Uma Maheswara Temple

 

 

Tips
1. I started from Banaganapalle. Tadipatri is 66 kms away from Banaganapalle and is well connected by busses. Enroute, Belum Caves and Owk Resorvoir are other place of interest. However, I could not visit them.
2. Yaganti is located 11 kms away from Banaganapalle in a different route and share autos ply from the latter. The frequency of busses is bad. Nandavaram is located on Nandyala route and is well connected by busses from Banaganapalle.

Beware
1. Banganapalle railway station is located very far away from the town's centre and is very difficult to reach.
2. Unfortunately, sudden and heavy rains lashed these areas during the past two days. 

Agasthya Mandapa at Yaganti

Venkateswara Shrine, Yaganti

Bhopal

Begum Shah Jahan of Bhopal - a progressive ruler famous for emphasis on Women's education, economy and beautification of Bhopal City

 

 

Bhojeswara Temple, Bhojpur near Bhopal

For Mahadev, the poet loving Paramara Rajput dreamt of a temple so huge,
the monument's unfinished but to the legacy, a crowning glory ensued.
On the banks of the Bhojtal, a city was born,
as little birds chirped and common-folk lived without scorn.

Taj Ul Masajid - largest masjid in India

For Hundred years, the Pashtun Begums reigned with a progressive hand,
with people as sole priority - a template that set the law of the land.
Women illuminated the Pari Bazaar as grand mosques were built, 
opulence and simplicity went hand in hand, with a sarcastic tilt.

Golghar Museum on Bhopal State (c.1707-1949 CE)

To the tribes of the nation, a great museum paid awesome tribute,
but in terms of public transport, there is much to be desired - just plain truth.
Heavy rains battered down on the city during my visit,
yet, it remained calm and firm with a charm so implicit.

A typical home of  Naga tribe - Inside Indira Gandhi Manav Sangrahalaya

Bhopal
Located on the banks of the Bhojtal Lake, the city of Bhopal is the capital of Madhya Pradesh. It has a past that harks back to Paramara Rajputs. For almost 100 years during Mughal & British Indian eras, the city was ruled by a succession of progressive minded Begums belonging to Orkhazai Pashtun tribe. Bhojtal Lake, Bhojeswara temple of Bhojpur, one of India's largest mosques - the Taj ul Masajid and perhaps the only museum of it's kind - Indira Gandhi Manav Sangrahalaya within Van Vihar National Park are some of the city's awesome places of interest.

Sheer artistry at sublime Sanchi...where the north and south first met!

Sanchi Sthupa no 1

In 3rd Century BCE, Asoka the Great was in a dilemma. He wished to start a grand Buddhist Establishment - one that would survive for centuries. The site so selected must ensure seclusion and solitude befitting monastic life, yet it should also be close to the Imperial Capital, old highway and preferably near to a rich and populous city.

The Emperor's selection was spot on - Vedisagiri, the present day Sanchi Hill!

At a ruined monastry

The present day village of Sanchi is located 7 kms away from Vidisha. The Sanchi Hill, with it's two Sthupas and ruins of monastries and temples is at a distance of 1.5 kms from the village's bus stop. The Village is regularly connected by busses from Vidisha and Bhopal. The entrance fee to visit this world heritage site is Rs.25/- for Indians, and the charge includes a visit to the Interpretation Centre/Museum on the hill too, which would be closed on Fridays.

An Inscription on stone

What to see? Sthupa no.1 is simply an exquisite masterpiece! Originally built as a brick Sthupa by Asoka the Great, many additions and embellishments were made to this in the later days by Sungas, Guptas and Satavahanas. The Sthupa has entrance archways on four directions, with lavish ornamentation in stone - the best in India! Tales from Vessankara Jataka, mythical creatures like Griffin, King Prasenajit of Shravasti etc are depicted in stylish panels with astounding detail. On a railing near the Eastern archway, a Sanskrit grant inscription was engraved by the Gupta Emperor Chandragupta II Vikramaditya in Golden Hue (c.410 CE). On the top portion of the Southern archway, there is another famous inscription in Prakrit Brahmi - that of Satavahana ruler Satakarni I (Chanda Siri Satakarni) - hence this is where the north and south first met! Sthupa no.2 located 1 km away from the main Sthupa has many motifs and carvings, although not as lavish as that of Sthupa no.1. Apart from these two sthupas, there is a minor Sthupa, ruins of temples and monastries built much later. Just outside the main entrance, there is a Chaityagriha built by Srilankan monks that has the relics of Sariputta & Moggallana.

Sanskrit Inscription of Chandragupta II Vikramaditya in c.410 CE, Eastern Archway, Sthupa no 1

A Script was deciphered! Many Pillars and stones here contain characters/minor inscriptions in Prakrit Brahmi. After a detailed study of these, the Brahmi script was finally deciphered by a British Indian Mint Officer James Princep. All these inscriptions end with the word 'Dana' i.e, donation - in two charachters - this working hypothesis became the basis for deciphering an entirely unknown script!

Credit must be duly given to the plethora of British archeologists who rendered yeoman service to this site (Sir Alexander Cunningham, Captain Taylor, James Princep etc), and it must be mentioned here that the Nawabs and Begums of Bhopal took great care in scientific protection of this site after it's rediscovery in 19th Century.

Under the Lioned Capital Pillar - Sthupa no 1

Sanchi holds a special place in Indian History. It was here that the north and south first met. It was here that the futility of war was reiterated giving way for the love of humanity and the victory of Dhamma!

Centre - King Prasenjait of Shravasti out for a walk, Below - Pipal tree worship

 

A shoutout to the Gupta Era - 'The Golden Age of India'

Cave no 4 at Udayagiri - Lord Vishnu as Varaha, saving Bhu Devi

Vidisha, previously called Bhelsa or Besnagar is a city in Madhya Pradesh, located 62 kms away (North-East)  from the state capital of Bhopal. The city has been in continuous existence since Mauryan times (c.3rd Century BCE), but rose to prominence during the Gupta Era (c.4th-6th Centuries CE). The World Heritage Site of Sanchi is located 7 Kms away from the city center on the Bhopal-Vidisha road. Udayagiri Caves, Heliodorus Pillar and Bija Mandal are other famous places of  historical interest in this underrated city.

Udayagiri Caves

Lord Vishnu as Varaha

Udayagiri Caves
I could never really understand as to why this place is not as famous as it should be! To history buffs - this is the only archeological & historical site that could be exclusively attributed to the Gupta Era. To all people - these caves offer an exquisite mix of pristine nature and primitive sculptural glory. Located almost 7 kms away from the city centre of Vidisha, this places houses 20 caves on two separate hills - 18 related to Vaishnavism and 2 belong to Jainism. One must understand that these caves were carved during Gupta Era - a time when Puranas were being compiled and re-compiled - an era when the Dashavatar theme of Vaishnanvism caught the imagination of the ruling class. The sculptural template set by Guptas at Udayagiri, inspired the Pallavas at Mamallapuram and the Chalukyas at Badami!

Cave 4 posses the famous grand carved relief of Bhu Varaha - Lord Vishnu as Varaha saving Godess Bhu Devi from the depths of primordial waters. It is perhaps the first representation of it's kind in the world. The carving also has miniature images of Gods, Asuras, Lord Varuna i.e, Samudra, River Godesses Ganga and Yamuna along with other celestial beings observing the event with reverential interest. Cave 6, attributed to one of the feudatories of Gupta Emperor Chandargupta II Vikramaditya has a carving of Lord Ganesha embedded on it's wall - perhaps the first of it's kind in India. Cave 9 is the famous Tawa cave - named as such because the roof resembles an upturned sauce-pan i.e, Tawa. En route to the top of the first hill - there's another wall embedded carving - Lord Vishnu as Narasimha - again, the first representation of it's kind. Thus, Udayagiri posseses so many firsts! Atop the second hill, there is an old granary and quary too!

 

 

The as yer undeciphered Sankha Script, Udayagiri

Inscription at Cave no 6, Udayagiri

Heliodorus Pillar
Between Udayagiri Caves and the City of Vidisha, on the banks of River Betwa, there exists a small & simple pillar with a glorious past. Some 2169 years ago, Heliodorus, a Greek Resident of Taxila was appointed as an ambassador of Indo Bactrain King of the then Punjab region, Antialchus to the court of the Sunga Emperor of Central India, Bhagabhadra. In due course of time, Heliodorus became an ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu and proclaimed himself as a devotee of Lord Vishnu i.e, Bhagavata. As per the Prakrit Brahmi Inscription on this pillar, it was built by Heliodorus as a Garuda Column in honour of Lord Vasudeva in c.150 BCE. Today, the pillar is also called as Khambaba locally and is venerated by the fishermen community.

Heliodorus Pillar aka Khambaba

Lord Ganesha outside Cave no 6, Udayagiri

Bija Mandal
Located within the city of Vidisha are the ruins of a famous temple turned mosque. The Vijaya Mandir was orginally a temple of Godess Charchika, a local manifestation of Godess Durga/Godess Chandika, built during 11th/12th Centuries by the Paramara Rajput King, Naravarma. It was assumed to be as huge and as glorious as the Konark Sun Temple and the quick glance of the ruins would convince anyone so. The temple was destroyed by 1682 CE and later, a mosque was built on the ruins on the orders of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The sculptures on the pillars and ruins are of the highest essence and quality!

Ruins of Bija Mandal/Vijay Mandir

Cave no 9 at Udayagiri - Tawa Cave

Vidisha District Museum
Vidisha District Museum located almost 2 kms away from Vidisha bus station is a treasure trove of Sculptures belonging to Mauryan, Gupta, Paramara and Chandela Era. Watch out for the replica of the famous Khajuraho Varaha!

Ghost Tree View Point, Udayagiri

Tips for the tour
1. Reaching Vidisha/Besnagar and stay - Private busses ply from Bhopal with recurring frequency for a charge of Rs.60/-. The first buss starts at 6 AM. Vidisha also has a railway station but the frequency of trains to other famous citites of India is not good. I stayed at Bhopal during the tour.

2. Visiting Places - If you don't have your own vehicle to travel, you need to get to Udayagiri Caves by an auto. Charge varies. Most of the caves are locked and most of the interesting sculptures are located at the base of the two hills. Needless to say, stay hydrated - bring and drink plenty of water and try to visit this place early in the morning. Do visit the following - Ganesha Carving on Cave 6's wall, Lord Vishnu as Varaha saving Bhu Devi (Cave 4), Ghost tree view point, Sleeping Vishnu Carving, Shiva Linga in Cave 5. Heliodorus Pillar & Bija Mandal are enroute to Udayagiri Caves and the visit can be clubbed. Vidisha District museum is located on the other side - near to Mahrana Pratap College.

3. Other Tips - The Public transport is completely non-existent. The city itself has a rustic feel about it. You can get along famously and comfortably well if you can manage a little Hindi. 





 

The Lone Pilgrim

(On a pillar in the Antaralaya - Mandapa of Sri Ksheera Ramalingeswara Swamy temple - Palakollu, there is an unremarkable carving - a lone pilgrim on journey)


The lone pilgrim embarked on a treacherous journey fraught with perils,
for faith moves mountains, and crushes all imaginative devils.
Some laughed at his naivety, some cursed his bravery,
some mocked his penury, yet he marched on with neither glam nor glory.

Day and night consistently picked at his resolve,
dream and nightmare played with his quest unsolved.
One moment he was a darling entertainer of a group of fellow travelers,
the next second all alone and aloof like a mere lump lacking calibre.

Past the villages and across the rivers,
cutting through the forests and withstanding shivers,
unending and unsatisfied, as the world moves on and on...
the show goes on and the lone pilgrim marches on!





Palakollu, 
11th of September, 2019