The legacy of the Gangikondan

Lateral View

 

On the morning of the 21st of October, 2021, I had the humble pleasure of visiting Arulmigu Perudaivar Kovil / Brihadisvara Temple of Gangaikonda Cholapuram, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Located in the present day district of Ariyalur of Tamilnadu, the temple is attributed to the greatest among Imperial Cholas, Rajendra I, dated early 11th Century CE. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of the Great Living Chola Temples, along with the more famous namesake temple at Tanjore and the Airavatesvara Swamy temple of Darasuram. Unlike the big temple of Tanjore, this temple is comparatively small, but more peaceful and attracts lesser devotees / tourists. Nevertheless, it is an architectural and sculptural wonder!

 

The remote location and blissful atmosphere adds an essence of aura to this marvel. At the entrance, supported by a large wall, there is a small Dhwaja-Sthamba and a rather sharply carved Nandi. The sancutm sanctorum inside the distinct and tall Dravida style Vimana can be approached by a long passageway inside the single main mandapa. The idol of Lord Shiva is a large Linga. On the walls of the temple, there are beautiful carvings and niches of various Gods, but mostly dedicated to various forms of Lord Shiva like Bhikshatanamurthi, Nataraja. There are separate shrines in the temple complex dedicated to Lord Ganesa, Goddess Durga and Nayanar saints. 

Nandi Pavilion

 

But one frieze/relief caught my attention - on the north-east wall of the temple, there exists the Chandesanugrahamurthi / Rajendra Chola I pattabhishekham panel which has two different interpretations - As Chandesanugrahamurthi, a feature of South Indian Saiva temples, wherein Lord Shiva, flanked by Goddess Parvati is blessing Chandeshvara Nayanar, the celebrated Nayanar Bhakti saint. The other plausible explanation is that the carving actually belongs to Rajendra Chola I, coronated / garlanded by Lord Shiva, watched by Goddess Parvati - the subtle hints of the cementing of the Devaraya cult. 

Chandesangrahamurthi / Rajendra Pattabhishekam

 

No one knew why Rajendra decided to build the temple and the surrounding village of Gangaikonda Cholapuram - the true source of power of Imperial Cholas for a period of 250 years. As I roamed in the premises of the great temple, I realised that I was walking on the legacy of the Gangaikondan - the greatest among Imperial Cholas, whose armies would campaign on the banks of river Ganges, and whose navies would invade South-East Asia. At that point of time, the Chola emperor was the single most powerful man of South Asia and South-East Asia. 

 

 

Gangaikonda Cholapuram

 

Maheeth Veluvali, 

Monday - 25th of October, 2021.  

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.

Clothed in Wisdom

I've had the very good and blessed opportunity of visiting Chidambaram and Srimushnam recently.

Chidambaram

The very name Chidambaram means 'Clothed in wisdom / consciousness'. The once flourishing city of the Imperial Cholas is still a reverential and respected place, located in Cuddalore district of Tamil Nadu. The place was once a dense forest - hence the name 'Thillai'. Chidambaram possesses perhaps one of the finest and mysterious temples of India - The Thillai Nataraja Temple, steeped in Hindu mythology & history, dedicated to Lord Shiva as the cosmic dancer Nataraja. The temple is a Shaiva Pancha Bhoota Sthalam (Element : Sky / Ether). The temple is also a Vaishnava Divya Desam, as the abode of Lord Govindaraja Perumal, also known as 'Thiruchitrakoodam'. Spread over 45 acres with four Gopurams on all four sides visible from the Trichy highway, a visit to this spacious and divine place is an exhilarating experience.

 

Me at South Gopuram of Thillai Nataraja Temple

I visited the temple in the evening, after 4 PM from the South Gopuram entrance. On the walls of each Gopuram, neatly carved images displaying dance poses / bhangimas inspired from the treatise Bharatamuni's Natyasastra greet the pilgrims. These would later inspire the famous dance form of Bharatanatyam. Thus, visibly Chidambaram is the place where fine arts and spirituality co-exist. Niche carvings of Nayanars, Lord Vishnu mounted on Garuda, Mahishasuramardini are also impressive. Once inside the main mandapa, I was delighted beyond words to find that the east facing Govindaraja Perumal swamy's idol and the South facing Thillai Nataraja Swamy's idol are located just adjacent to each other. There are separate sub-shrines dedicated to Goddess Sivagami, Lord Adi moolanathar and Goddess Umiya Parvathi too. 

 

Few western sources (?) claim that the World's magnetic equator passes through the exact place where Lord Nataraja's idol is consecrated. The vibrations near the sanctum sanctorum are blissful and beyond description. Nine Separate pillared halls and pavilions are another brilliant feature of this temple. I spent atleast an hour at this awesome place! Next, I visited the Thillai Kali Amman temple, located in the outskirts, which seemed to be smeared in Red vermilion. The main deity, Goddess Thillai Kali, appears in a furious, reddish form, diagonally opposite tot he deity palced on entrance dedicated to much calmer Thillai Amman.   

Beautiful sculpture work - Srimushnam

Srimushnam

Goddess Bhu-devi saving Varaha was the third incarination of Lord SrimahaVishnu. Located some 40 kms away from Chidambaram, the Bhoo-Varaga Perumal Swamy temple of Srimushnam,originally attributed to Medieval Cholas, but alter day additons made by Tanjore Nayaka Kings, is a large & spacious temple, noted for Hindu-Muslim Unity as well. There's a Telugu inscription inside the temple too which was interesting. The brilliant & artistic sculpture and carving work on pillars, especially of plaited haired attendants is unique and distinguishing feature of the temple.   

Maheeth Veluvali,

24th of October, 2021,

16 Saladi Jamindar street, Palakollu,.