My travels is all about... My views, thoughts and experiences on/about/at/with random places of interest, persons, things, events, issues etc,. I am an eternal student with a restless mind and a tumultuous heart!

Thursday, February 17, 2022

Bishnupur


Tiger Hunt - Jor Bangla
What is the place ?
Bishnupur (literally, the land/town of Vishnu) of Bankura district, West Bengal is regarded as the Terracotta temple city of India, famed for Baluchari saries and Terracotta art. There are many ornately carved temples here, attributed to local Mallabhum rulers, dated mostly in later medieval ages. Most of the temples here are based on the indigenous Bengali roof (Chala) architecture, made of Terracotta and laterite. 
 


How I reached ?
Bishnupur has a bus terminus and a large railway station too on Bankura - Medinipur section of South Eastern Railways. As these are covid times, only few trains are running. I visisted Bishnupur on Train from Medinipur, which takes just around 90 minutes for a distance of around 100 kms. 

Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple
 
Where to stay and how to commute ?
There are few lodges in and around Bishnupur bus-station. I boarded at the Mallabhum lodge, for a charge of Rs.400/- per day. It was cozy. There are power autos that can be hired / shared in Bishnupur. Usually, they charge Rs.400/- for a full tour of all the temples of Bishnupur. People are friendly, can understand Hindi too and are extremely proud of the rich cultural heritage the place offers for tourists like me.
   
Jor Bangla
 
What's there to see ?
Most of the temples are under the aegis of the Archeological Survey of India. The famous temples and monuments include - 
1. Jor Mandir Temple complex, with three Eka-ratna style temples and a surrounding ground where a weekly haat takes place
2. Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple - the finest of the lot, the pinnacle of the temples at Bishnupur, built during 17th Century CE, said to be a forerunner of the more famous Dhakineshwar Temple.
3. Jor Bangla Temple - A curious amalgamation of two temples - with brilliant carvings depicting Ramayana, Sri Krishna Leela and other secular themes
4. Maa Chinamasta temple
5. Dal Mandal Cannon - a classic example of Bengali workmanship - forged locally out of wrought Iron in 16th Century CE, a legend surrounds the cannon that Lord Radha Madhav (Sri Krishna) would fire the cannon upon the invaders of Bishnupur. The cannon repulsed attacks by Afghan Pathans, Maratha Bagirs etc, and adds an evergreen charm to Bishnupur. 
6. Madam Mohan Temple - Located a bit far from other monuments, the temple has Thakurs viz murthis in local parlance. The glided Bengali roof over the temple is a sight to behold. 
 
Ras Mancha
 
7. Lalji Temple - Unfortunately, the temple was closed when I visited it, but explored the surrounding garden. 
8. Ras Mancha - or literally, a raised platform - an atypical pyramidal structure that served as a platform for the 108 deities of the temples of Bishnupur, during festivals. The structure has 108 arch entrances. 
9. Bishnupur fort citadel and surrounding moat
10. Gum Ghar - a sort of bottomless pit, an execution and condemnation site during Mallabhum times. 
11. Mata Mrinmayee Mata Temple 
12. Radhashyam Temple - another brilliant, ornate masterpiece
13. Few ruined temples viz Jagannatha Deula, Mahaprabhu temple etc,. 
 
Me at the Dal Madal Cannon
 
Note - Ras Mancha, Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple and Jor Bangla temples - these three monuments can be visited for a joint ticket of Rs.25/- (Indians). To visit other places, there is no charge of fee.
 
 
Me at the Jor Mandir Temple Complex
 

 
Visited on 12th and 13th of February, 2022
Maheeth Veluvali.