My 2019

In the cold winter mornings, seeds of self doubt crept into my numbing mind,

a new year began – the last in the decade of an ever testing kind.

Great enthusiasm matched with even greater failures,

But life went on, unaware of the abyss that lurks and lures.

A self realized lust for travel intertwined with a curious quest;

I journeyed into the ancient realms of yore, at my humble and humorous best.

I was a part of a raging huge crowd, yet I prized my solitude.

Between beautiful dreams and harsh realities, I moved seamlessly with a weird attitude.

What changes now? Nothing but a new calendar and a fancy new year with a rhythmic zing,

New experiences - some good, some bad, - to be faced without a sting. 

But, all the lessons learnt would not be forgotten, as I bid adieu to the bygone year;

and start afresh - my flirty tryst with twenty twenty, old and wise but still so young and foolish - with a silent cheer!

The Enlightened One

Temptations of Mara Panel - Gautama Buddha in Bhumisparsha Mudra, cave 26 of Ajanta - c.5th Century CE

(Based on the 'Temptations of Mara' panel inside Cave 26 - dated c.5th Century CE, of Ajanta Caves, Maharashtra,  which depicts Gautama Buddha in his famous 'Bhumisparshamudra', in deep penance, ignoring the threatening goblins and the tempting daughters of the demon Mara)

An army of goblins created a reckless ruckus,

their shrill deafening voices filled with ugly roughness. 

Curses, trumpets and drums failed to dampen the spirit

of the lone mortal, set to attain a blameless merit.

To that man, an avalanche of slander meant nothing.

Then - bejeweled and bewitching, they apperared, dipped in beauty, shaking;

the beautiful daughters of the great demon set to entice him,

yet they've failed beautifully, their pride taking a nasty skim.

At the cusp of glory, the man waited and bid his time,

Neither temptations nor warnings could dampen the ambition so selfless and prime.

Centuries later;

when pressures all around seize my senses, I think of this panel -  

of the enlightened one, the mortal turned divine, before I turn into a vandal.

there would never be another Seshan...

TN Seshan in 1994 (File Pic), Wikipedia

A nation of millions shook in the nervous nineties -
in an era of political gimmicks punctured by electoral malpractices.
But one man rose from the corridors of power,
and an institution was rebuilt from scratch, so the corrupt could cower.

Cards of Identity to the embattled voters;
the good changes invited crass curses from those with vested powers.
Pitched battles were fought for the victory of truth, in consecutive annals;
Be it Punjab or Bihar - the commission's word was perfectly final.

A culture of adherance to rules began on the high altar of democracy -
for once, the dumb millions shook with happy pride despite the official obstinacy.
Elections will come and go like seasons; - mother nature's variation
but there would never be another Seshan for this gigantic nation!



Tirunellai Narayana Iyer Seshan (1932-2019), popularly called TN Seshan was the tenth Chief Election Commissioner of India (1990-96) whose adherence to rules, style of functioning and electoral reforms are a stuff of legends - under him, the Election Commission of India became one of the glorified Constitutional institutions running on the pillars of Transparency and Accountability, winning universal public acclaim and respect, but also earning him brickbats form unscrupulous elements (i.e, the political class who always bent the rules during elections)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T._N._Seshan 
Picture above - Credits to Rishabh Tatiraju from Wikipedia

An old man's cry in the wilderness

(c.1748 CE - On his death bed, Asaf Jah 1, founder of the Hyderabad state warned his sons and grandsons not to fight among themselves, to be pious and vigilant, to take good care of the people and be wary of the machinations of the European companies. However, his successors precisely did everything against his advice - they were always engaged in bitter succession disputes, took help of French and British companies in battles & family feuds, led extravagant lives in sharp contrast to the vast majority of people.

His sagacious advice was only an old man's cry in the wilderness.

In the words of Asaf Jah 1.....) 

Tomb of Nizam ul Mulk I/Asafal Jah I at a Dargah in Khuldabad. 

"
My dear sons! My mundane time is up and the other world calls me,
my power and pride have evaporated, and I'm a dying tree.
Pardon this foolish old man, but pay attention to my words,
For these words would guard you better than the Persian swords.

Let there be no quarrel amongst you, be a band of brothers,
have faith in unity; patience and piety would do you wonders.
Never indulge in bloodshed merely for the lust of conquest,
reign with a gentle heart and vigilant mind, as if on a spiritual quest.

Beware of the merchant companies from the sea,
be wary of their profits and their plans; far from us let them be.
Reject the sweet words of the sycophants,
seek truth and reward it, and be prepared for history's taunts.

To the people - be an indulgent father; not a punishing despot.
for all their troubles - be a genuine source of respite.
Victory and defeat greeted me equally in my life, for I was rigorous.
Do not ignore my words; lest they become an old man's cry in the wilderness.
"



Mir Khamruddin Khan Siddiqui Bayafindi (c.1671-1748 CE), more popularly known by his titles -Asaf Jah I /Nizam Ul Mulk I/Chin Qilich Khan was a famous Mughal nobleman. He went on to establish the modern state of Hyderabad in 1720 CE. His life is like a roller coaster of victories and defeats.

Andhra's own Kalinga - Srimukhalingam

My brother at the temple

 

 

 

 

 

 

Srimukhalingam temple complex

Main Shrine entrance

(June 2019)....Srikakulam, the northern most district of Andhra Pradesh is home to many Ancient Hindu temples and Buddhist ruins. The Sun Temple at Arasavelli, the Kurmanatha temple (Shri MahaVishnu as Kurma Avatar) at Srikurmam and the Srimukhalingeswara swamy (Lord Shiva) temple of Srimukhalingam - these three constitute a special and the most popular group of temples here. The architectural achievements of the Eastern Gangas of Kalinga (Early Medieval age -c.?-15th Centuries) are tremendous. But, even before Konark and Puri became the glorified synonyms of Kalinga's architecture, there was Srimukhalingam. Kalinganagara - the modern day village of Srimukhalingam in Jalamuru mandal of Srikakulam district was the first capital of Eastern Gangas.

A Warrior

Carving of Apsara

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Srimukhalingeswara swamy temple is perhaps the only monument of Andhra Pradesh in Kalinga architectural style, untainted by later additions. The remote location of the village adds a sort of 'Je ne sais quoi' to the temple's already ancient ambiance. The Shiva Linga has a distinct carving of Lord Shiva's face, hence the name 'Sri Mukha Lingam' (Telugu - The Linga with the Lord's face) is apt. In fact, a legend explains that the Linga had it's origin from a Madhuca tree (Madhuca Longifolia) trunk. In terms of architectural style, the monument is perhaps the first of it's kind - an artistic experiment of the Eastern Gangas, who later perfected it at Jajpur, Bhubaneshwar, Konark and Puri.

Carvings on wall

The large temple complex is built in Trikuta plan - three separate shrines of Madhukeswara, Bheemeswara and Someshwara temples on a common raised platform. The Carvings on the temple walls show signs of brilliant worksmanship. The sad fact of this place is, and I regret as I type this, the low-key maintenance of the temple and the apparent emotional blackmailing by some priests for money, which I did not find at any other temple, till date. Another disappointing factor is the long and weary road - small, dreadfully deserted and full of cracks as if it were the cricket pitch on 5th day of a test match.

Carvings on outer entrace

Yet, it remains a great place with an element of mystery and history combined - for example, sample this fact - Historians know that Kamarnava II of Eastern Gangas built the temple. But they could not exactly date this temple - 8th Century? 11th Century? 10th Century? Or let it reamain a mystery till we get hold of conclusive evidence....

The temple

 

Road to Srimukhalingam

A coward's march to victory...

(For almost 500 years, the dynasty of Eastern Chalukyas ruled from Vengi, Bikkavolu and Rajamahendravaram - all in modern day Andhra Pradesh. Most of the time, they were forced to play second fiddle to competitors like Cholas, Western Chalukyas, Eastern Gangas, Rashtrakutas and were relegated as tax paying feudatories.Yet, for some brief time during the 9th Century, facing insane odds, their greatest emperor Gunaga Vijayaditya rose to prominence, which gave a semblance of respect to them. Gunaga's generals went on to defeat Rashtrakutas, subdjugate rebel feudals and these 'Chanda Chalukyas' had no opponent from Pulicat Lake to the Vindhya mountains. But, Gunaga had a rough beginning - he had to face a civil war against rival claimants and relatives. Initially, he had to flee the kingdom and wandered as a depressed coward with little hope, waiting and waiting...In his own words)

Warriors (Stone/Rock) - Eastern Chalukyas - Kakinada Museum

I wonder why 'Victory' was added to my name, and I never tasted even a little success?
A cruel joke of destiny, that's played on me, a petty pawn in the game of chess.
I'm cast away like a shipwrecked man, and I thought I was a Prince loved by all.
Now, I realize they only lust after power, and I'm just a pampered naive doll.

Armies of all kingdoms from all directions raid our beloved cities for tributes and glory,
But our forces only take sides in disastrous succession battles - what a  tomfoolery!
My ancestors held lofty titles - all nice lies, their bulging fragile egos overspent...
And here I am, their grand successor, wandering in forests, pursued by my own men.

An uncertain life of a Prince in exile - that's what that's before me,
A clueless coward or a cunning conspirator ? Right now, I'm just a survivor per se,
My life is in dark, let the dawn come and I'll live through hell if need be,
Let the beasts of the forest be a testimony of this coward's march to victory!

One of the ruined temples supposedly built by Gunaga Vijayaditya at Bikkavolu (c.9th Century CE)

In and around Tadipatri - The hidden gems of a forgotten empire

Inside Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

Mini Carving at Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

A consistent rain coupled with vast landscapes of broken slabstones and carved hillocks greeted me on my one day sojourn to Tadipatri and surrounding places. If the historian Robert Sewell passionately called the Vijayanagara Empire (c.1336-1670s CE) as 'The Forgotten Empire', then the temples of Tadipatri could very well be the hidden gems of a forgotten empire - these could escape the destruction brought on Hampi after the Battle of Tallikota (c.1565 CE), yet remain passively outside the scope of fame attained by the magnificent ruins of Hampi.

Sculpture inside Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Salabhanjika Sculpture, Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple

Tadipatri
Tadipatri (Literally Palm Leaf in Telugu) is located in Anantapur district. During the glory days of Vijayanagara Rayas, their feudatories - Pemmasani Nayakas controlled the town and it's surrounding areas. Two temples built by these feudatories survive to this day. The first one, originally planned in 14th Century CE and dedicated to Lord Shiva is the Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy Temple. Two half-built gopurams adorn this brilliant temple located on the banks of River Penna. The Sculptures, especially the welcoming Salabhanjika lady on  the archways of the temple gopurams is wonderfully detailed. On one of the walls, we could distinctly observe the Imperial Royal Insignia of Vijayanagara Empire.

Imperial Royal Insignia of Vijayanagara Empire inside Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Chintala Rayaswamy/VenkataRamanaswamy Temple is built as per Vaishnava tradition, and is dedicated to Lord Venkateswara. Just like the Vijaya Vitthala temple of Hampi, there is a Garuda Ratha here too i.e, Stone Chariot. And akin to the ruined Hazara Ramalaya of Hampi, the walls of the temple have mini carvings and engravings of tales from Ramayana. The temple is thus, simply a sublime architectural tribute to those two fantastic yet ruined temples of Hampi. Watching the black granite sculptures set in a gentle drizzle - that's a brilliant experience.

Garuda Ratha - Stone Chariot at Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

At Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

Yaganti
11 kms away from Banganapalle of Kurnool district, Yaganti is famous for it's two temples and three caves. Although originally a Chalukyan site, the place rose to prominence during the reign of Sangam Bukka Raya I of Vijayanagara Empire. A huge pond (Koneru), a supposedly ever raising stone Nandi (Bull, vahana of Lord Shiva) are the major attractions at the Uma Maheswara (Shiva) temple located here. Sankara Cave, associated with cult of seer Potuluri Veerabhrahmendra Swamy (the Telugu Nostradamus) and a shrine dedicated to Lord Venkateswara within a cavern are other major places of interest. Set amidst Reddish Sandstone hills, Yaganti offer a glimpse of glory to nature lovers.

Nandavaram
I did not intend to see any other place, but got to visit this place on a whim. Located 10 kms away from Banaganapalle on Nandyala road, the village has a famous temple dedicated to Chowdeswari Devi, a local cult deity. A ruined temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is another interesting temple here.

Koneru at Yaganti Uma Maheswara Temple

 

 

Tips
1. I started from Banaganapalle. Tadipatri is 66 kms away from Banaganapalle and is well connected by busses. Enroute, Belum Caves and Owk Resorvoir are other place of interest. However, I could not visit them.
2. Yaganti is located 11 kms away from Banaganapalle in a different route and share autos ply from the latter. The frequency of busses is bad. Nandavaram is located on Nandyala route and is well connected by busses from Banaganapalle.

Beware
1. Banganapalle railway station is located very far away from the town's centre and is very difficult to reach.
2. Unfortunately, sudden and heavy rains lashed these areas during the past two days. 

Agasthya Mandapa at Yaganti

Venkateswara Shrine, Yaganti

Bhopal

Begum Shah Jahan of Bhopal - a progressive ruler famous for emphasis on Women's education, economy and beautification of Bhopal City

 

 

Bhojeswara Temple, Bhojpur near Bhopal

For Mahadev, the poet loving Paramara Rajput dreamt of a temple so huge,
the monument's unfinished but to the legacy, a crowning glory ensued.
On the banks of the Bhojtal, a city was born,
as little birds chirped and common-folk lived without scorn.

Taj Ul Masajid - largest masjid in India

For Hundred years, the Pashtun Begums reigned with a progressive hand,
with people as sole priority - a template that set the law of the land.
Women illuminated the Pari Bazaar as grand mosques were built, 
opulence and simplicity went hand in hand, with a sarcastic tilt.

Golghar Museum on Bhopal State (c.1707-1949 CE)

To the tribes of the nation, a great museum paid awesome tribute,
but in terms of public transport, there is much to be desired - just plain truth.
Heavy rains battered down on the city during my visit,
yet, it remained calm and firm with a charm so implicit.

A typical home of  Naga tribe - Inside Indira Gandhi Manav Sangrahalaya

Bhopal
Located on the banks of the Bhojtal Lake, the city of Bhopal is the capital of Madhya Pradesh. It has a past that harks back to Paramara Rajputs. For almost 100 years during Mughal & British Indian eras, the city was ruled by a succession of progressive minded Begums belonging to Orkhazai Pashtun tribe. Bhojtal Lake, Bhojeswara temple of Bhojpur, one of India's largest mosques - the Taj ul Masajid and perhaps the only museum of it's kind - Indira Gandhi Manav Sangrahalaya within Van Vihar National Park are some of the city's awesome places of interest.

Sheer artistry at sublime Sanchi...where the north and south first met!

Sanchi Sthupa no 1

In 3rd Century BCE, Asoka the Great was in a dilemma. He wished to start a grand Buddhist Establishment - one that would survive for centuries. The site so selected must ensure seclusion and solitude befitting monastic life, yet it should also be close to the Imperial Capital, old highway and preferably near to a rich and populous city.

The Emperor's selection was spot on - Vedisagiri, the present day Sanchi Hill!

At a ruined monastry

The present day village of Sanchi is located 7 kms away from Vidisha. The Sanchi Hill, with it's two Sthupas and ruins of monastries and temples is at a distance of 1.5 kms from the village's bus stop. The Village is regularly connected by busses from Vidisha and Bhopal. The entrance fee to visit this world heritage site is Rs.25/- for Indians, and the charge includes a visit to the Interpretation Centre/Museum on the hill too, which would be closed on Fridays.

An Inscription on stone

What to see? Sthupa no.1 is simply an exquisite masterpiece! Originally built as a brick Sthupa by Asoka the Great, many additions and embellishments were made to this in the later days by Sungas, Guptas and Satavahanas. The Sthupa has entrance archways on four directions, with lavish ornamentation in stone - the best in India! Tales from Vessankara Jataka, mythical creatures like Griffin, King Prasenajit of Shravasti etc are depicted in stylish panels with astounding detail. On a railing near the Eastern archway, a Sanskrit grant inscription was engraved by the Gupta Emperor Chandragupta II Vikramaditya in Golden Hue (c.410 CE). On the top portion of the Southern archway, there is another famous inscription in Prakrit Brahmi - that of Satavahana ruler Satakarni I (Chanda Siri Satakarni) - hence this is where the north and south first met! Sthupa no.2 located 1 km away from the main Sthupa has many motifs and carvings, although not as lavish as that of Sthupa no.1. Apart from these two sthupas, there is a minor Sthupa, ruins of temples and monastries built much later. Just outside the main entrance, there is a Chaityagriha built by Srilankan monks that has the relics of Sariputta & Moggallana.

Sanskrit Inscription of Chandragupta II Vikramaditya in c.410 CE, Eastern Archway, Sthupa no 1

A Script was deciphered! Many Pillars and stones here contain characters/minor inscriptions in Prakrit Brahmi. After a detailed study of these, the Brahmi script was finally deciphered by a British Indian Mint Officer James Princep. All these inscriptions end with the word 'Dana' i.e, donation - in two charachters - this working hypothesis became the basis for deciphering an entirely unknown script!

Credit must be duly given to the plethora of British archeologists who rendered yeoman service to this site (Sir Alexander Cunningham, Captain Taylor, James Princep etc), and it must be mentioned here that the Nawabs and Begums of Bhopal took great care in scientific protection of this site after it's rediscovery in 19th Century.

Under the Lioned Capital Pillar - Sthupa no 1

Sanchi holds a special place in Indian History. It was here that the north and south first met. It was here that the futility of war was reiterated giving way for the love of humanity and the victory of Dhamma!

Centre - King Prasenjait of Shravasti out for a walk, Below - Pipal tree worship

 

A shoutout to the Gupta Era - 'The Golden Age of India'

Cave no 4 at Udayagiri - Lord Vishnu as Varaha, saving Bhu Devi

Vidisha, previously called Bhelsa or Besnagar is a city in Madhya Pradesh, located 62 kms away (North-East)  from the state capital of Bhopal. The city has been in continuous existence since Mauryan times (c.3rd Century BCE), but rose to prominence during the Gupta Era (c.4th-6th Centuries CE). The World Heritage Site of Sanchi is located 7 Kms away from the city center on the Bhopal-Vidisha road. Udayagiri Caves, Heliodorus Pillar and Bija Mandal are other famous places of  historical interest in this underrated city.

Udayagiri Caves

Lord Vishnu as Varaha

Udayagiri Caves
I could never really understand as to why this place is not as famous as it should be! To history buffs - this is the only archeological & historical site that could be exclusively attributed to the Gupta Era. To all people - these caves offer an exquisite mix of pristine nature and primitive sculptural glory. Located almost 7 kms away from the city centre of Vidisha, this places houses 20 caves on two separate hills - 18 related to Vaishnavism and 2 belong to Jainism. One must understand that these caves were carved during Gupta Era - a time when Puranas were being compiled and re-compiled - an era when the Dashavatar theme of Vaishnanvism caught the imagination of the ruling class. The sculptural template set by Guptas at Udayagiri, inspired the Pallavas at Mamallapuram and the Chalukyas at Badami!

Cave 4 posses the famous grand carved relief of Bhu Varaha - Lord Vishnu as Varaha saving Godess Bhu Devi from the depths of primordial waters. It is perhaps the first representation of it's kind in the world. The carving also has miniature images of Gods, Asuras, Lord Varuna i.e, Samudra, River Godesses Ganga and Yamuna along with other celestial beings observing the event with reverential interest. Cave 6, attributed to one of the feudatories of Gupta Emperor Chandargupta II Vikramaditya has a carving of Lord Ganesha embedded on it's wall - perhaps the first of it's kind in India. Cave 9 is the famous Tawa cave - named as such because the roof resembles an upturned sauce-pan i.e, Tawa. En route to the top of the first hill - there's another wall embedded carving - Lord Vishnu as Narasimha - again, the first representation of it's kind. Thus, Udayagiri posseses so many firsts! Atop the second hill, there is an old granary and quary too!

 

 

The as yer undeciphered Sankha Script, Udayagiri

Inscription at Cave no 6, Udayagiri

Heliodorus Pillar
Between Udayagiri Caves and the City of Vidisha, on the banks of River Betwa, there exists a small & simple pillar with a glorious past. Some 2169 years ago, Heliodorus, a Greek Resident of Taxila was appointed as an ambassador of Indo Bactrain King of the then Punjab region, Antialchus to the court of the Sunga Emperor of Central India, Bhagabhadra. In due course of time, Heliodorus became an ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu and proclaimed himself as a devotee of Lord Vishnu i.e, Bhagavata. As per the Prakrit Brahmi Inscription on this pillar, it was built by Heliodorus as a Garuda Column in honour of Lord Vasudeva in c.150 BCE. Today, the pillar is also called as Khambaba locally and is venerated by the fishermen community.

Heliodorus Pillar aka Khambaba

Lord Ganesha outside Cave no 6, Udayagiri

Bija Mandal
Located within the city of Vidisha are the ruins of a famous temple turned mosque. The Vijaya Mandir was orginally a temple of Godess Charchika, a local manifestation of Godess Durga/Godess Chandika, built during 11th/12th Centuries by the Paramara Rajput King, Naravarma. It was assumed to be as huge and as glorious as the Konark Sun Temple and the quick glance of the ruins would convince anyone so. The temple was destroyed by 1682 CE and later, a mosque was built on the ruins on the orders of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The sculptures on the pillars and ruins are of the highest essence and quality!

Ruins of Bija Mandal/Vijay Mandir

Cave no 9 at Udayagiri - Tawa Cave

Vidisha District Museum
Vidisha District Museum located almost 2 kms away from Vidisha bus station is a treasure trove of Sculptures belonging to Mauryan, Gupta, Paramara and Chandela Era. Watch out for the replica of the famous Khajuraho Varaha!

Ghost Tree View Point, Udayagiri

Tips for the tour
1. Reaching Vidisha/Besnagar and stay - Private busses ply from Bhopal with recurring frequency for a charge of Rs.60/-. The first buss starts at 6 AM. Vidisha also has a railway station but the frequency of trains to other famous citites of India is not good. I stayed at Bhopal during the tour.

2. Visiting Places - If you don't have your own vehicle to travel, you need to get to Udayagiri Caves by an auto. Charge varies. Most of the caves are locked and most of the interesting sculptures are located at the base of the two hills. Needless to say, stay hydrated - bring and drink plenty of water and try to visit this place early in the morning. Do visit the following - Ganesha Carving on Cave 6's wall, Lord Vishnu as Varaha saving Bhu Devi (Cave 4), Ghost tree view point, Sleeping Vishnu Carving, Shiva Linga in Cave 5. Heliodorus Pillar & Bija Mandal are enroute to Udayagiri Caves and the visit can be clubbed. Vidisha District museum is located on the other side - near to Mahrana Pratap College.

3. Other Tips - The Public transport is completely non-existent. The city itself has a rustic feel about it. You can get along famously and comfortably well if you can manage a little Hindi. 





 

The Lone Pilgrim

(On a pillar in the Antaralaya - Mandapa of Sri Ksheera Ramalingeswara Swamy temple - Palakollu, there is an unremarkable carving - a lone pilgrim on journey)


The lone pilgrim embarked on a treacherous journey fraught with perils,
for faith moves mountains, and crushes all imaginative devils.
Some laughed at his naivety, some cursed his bravery,
some mocked his penury, yet he marched on with neither glam nor glory.

Day and night consistently picked at his resolve,
dream and nightmare played with his quest unsolved.
One moment he was a darling entertainer of a group of fellow travelers,
the next second all alone and aloof like a mere lump lacking calibre.

Past the villages and across the rivers,
cutting through the forests and withstanding shivers,
unending and unsatisfied, as the world moves on and on...
the show goes on and the lone pilgrim marches on!





Palakollu, 
11th of September, 2019

Ramappa Temple - the last & lasting synonym of Kakatiya Grandeur

The Temple

Kakatiya Bhumija style Vimana

Is there any site in Telangana that could potentially garner a UNESCO - World Heritage Site status (man-made)? Charminar is iconic but cramped, Qutub Shahi tombs seem to be always under renovation and Warangal (including the Kila Warangal and the Lord Shiva temple possessing the eponymous misnomer 'Thousand Pillar Temple') seems to be massively over-rated.And perhaps, the answer lays elsewhere in a small, simple yet elegant temple, located fittingly in a village called Palampeta of Mulugu Mandal in the newly carved Jaishankar Bhupalapally district, 77 Kms away from the city centre of Warangal.

The welcoming Warrior Woman

Ramalingeswara temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva was built by Recharla Rudra, one of the finest but little known generals of Medieval India, on behalf of his patron - Kakatiya emperor Ganapathi Deva in c.1213 CE. Interestingly, the temple is also known as Ramappa temple in honor of it's chief sculptor, Ramappa. Although now under the maintenance of ASI, there is no entry fee to visit the monument and puja etc is still going on as per Hindu customs, without any damage to the temple. The red-sandstone temple is built on the basis of Kakatiya Bhumija/Kadamba architechture - a major shrine in the centre surrounded by two sub-shrines (one of which is damaged) along with a separate Nandi Mandapa to the south side of the temple.

Temple south entrance

The most beautiful feature of this temple is the carvings and sculptures of dancers in traditional dance poses (bhangimas) related to the dance art forms of Andhra Natyam and Perini Sivathandavam. Another famous Kakatiya general, Jayappa Senani wrote extensively on these dance poses in his work 'Nrittaratnavali'. The Nandi of the temple is adorned with beautiful ornamentation. There is also a famous 4-sided pillar inscription inside the temple. Inside the Antaralaya, there are pillar carvings of Gods and celestial beings too. Black slab and Basalt stones panels were arranged on all sides of the temple having sculptued images of Battle Elephants, Dancers, and other religious motifs.

Nandi

The temple survived the Delhi Sultanate's repeated onslaughts on Kakatiya empire. It's impressive list of admirers include the Sultan Muhammad Bin Tughlaq and Venetian traveller Marco Polo. A kilometer away from the temple, there is an impressive lake which was dug by Kakatiya rulers to aid in irrigation and drinking water. c.1213 CE - those were the halcyon days of the Kakatiya Empire - all major rivals' (Cholas, Chalukyas, Yadavas) power waned, trade and agriculture prospered, new art forms emerged and people were happy under the 'Elephant conquering' Ganapathi Deva! - The temple thus stands as the last a& lasting synonym of Kakatiya Grandeur.

Inside the temple

A dancing pose...notice her footwear!

#MyTravels - Ramalingeswara Temple (Ramappa Temple)
August 2019.