In and around Tadipatri - The hidden gems of a forgotten empire

Inside Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

Mini Carving at Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

A consistent rain coupled with vast landscapes of broken slabstones and carved hillocks greeted me on my one day sojourn to Tadipatri and surrounding places. If the historian Robert Sewell passionately called the Vijayanagara Empire (c.1336-1670s CE) as 'The Forgotten Empire', then the temples of Tadipatri could very well be the hidden gems of a forgotten empire - these could escape the destruction brought on Hampi after the Battle of Tallikota (c.1565 CE), yet remain passively outside the scope of fame attained by the magnificent ruins of Hampi.

Sculpture inside Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Salabhanjika Sculpture, Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple

Tadipatri
Tadipatri (Literally Palm Leaf in Telugu) is located in Anantapur district. During the glory days of Vijayanagara Rayas, their feudatories - Pemmasani Nayakas controlled the town and it's surrounding areas. Two temples built by these feudatories survive to this day. The first one, originally planned in 14th Century CE and dedicated to Lord Shiva is the Bugga Ramalingeswara Swamy Temple. Two half-built gopurams adorn this brilliant temple located on the banks of River Penna. The Sculptures, especially the welcoming Salabhanjika lady on  the archways of the temple gopurams is wonderfully detailed. On one of the walls, we could distinctly observe the Imperial Royal Insignia of Vijayanagara Empire.

Imperial Royal Insignia of Vijayanagara Empire inside Bugga Ramalingeswara Temple, Tadipatri

Chintala Rayaswamy/VenkataRamanaswamy Temple is built as per Vaishnava tradition, and is dedicated to Lord Venkateswara. Just like the Vijaya Vitthala temple of Hampi, there is a Garuda Ratha here too i.e, Stone Chariot. And akin to the ruined Hazara Ramalaya of Hampi, the walls of the temple have mini carvings and engravings of tales from Ramayana. The temple is thus, simply a sublime architectural tribute to those two fantastic yet ruined temples of Hampi. Watching the black granite sculptures set in a gentle drizzle - that's a brilliant experience.

Garuda Ratha - Stone Chariot at Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

At Chintala Rayaswamy Temple, Tadipatri

Yaganti
11 kms away from Banganapalle of Kurnool district, Yaganti is famous for it's two temples and three caves. Although originally a Chalukyan site, the place rose to prominence during the reign of Sangam Bukka Raya I of Vijayanagara Empire. A huge pond (Koneru), a supposedly ever raising stone Nandi (Bull, vahana of Lord Shiva) are the major attractions at the Uma Maheswara (Shiva) temple located here. Sankara Cave, associated with cult of seer Potuluri Veerabhrahmendra Swamy (the Telugu Nostradamus) and a shrine dedicated to Lord Venkateswara within a cavern are other major places of interest. Set amidst Reddish Sandstone hills, Yaganti offer a glimpse of glory to nature lovers.

Nandavaram
I did not intend to see any other place, but got to visit this place on a whim. Located 10 kms away from Banaganapalle on Nandyala road, the village has a famous temple dedicated to Chowdeswari Devi, a local cult deity. A ruined temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is another interesting temple here.

Koneru at Yaganti Uma Maheswara Temple

 

 

Tips
1. I started from Banaganapalle. Tadipatri is 66 kms away from Banaganapalle and is well connected by busses. Enroute, Belum Caves and Owk Resorvoir are other place of interest. However, I could not visit them.
2. Yaganti is located 11 kms away from Banaganapalle in a different route and share autos ply from the latter. The frequency of busses is bad. Nandavaram is located on Nandyala route and is well connected by busses from Banaganapalle.

Beware
1. Banganapalle railway station is located very far away from the town's centre and is very difficult to reach.
2. Unfortunately, sudden and heavy rains lashed these areas during the past two days. 

Agasthya Mandapa at Yaganti

Venkateswara Shrine, Yaganti