The legacy of the Gangikondan

Lateral View

 

On the morning of the 21st of October, 2021, I had the humble pleasure of visiting Arulmigu Perudaivar Kovil / Brihadisvara Temple of Gangaikonda Cholapuram, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Located in the present day district of Ariyalur of Tamilnadu, the temple is attributed to the greatest among Imperial Cholas, Rajendra I, dated early 11th Century CE. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of the Great Living Chola Temples, along with the more famous namesake temple at Tanjore and the Airavatesvara Swamy temple of Darasuram. Unlike the big temple of Tanjore, this temple is comparatively small, but more peaceful and attracts lesser devotees / tourists. Nevertheless, it is an architectural and sculptural wonder!

 

The remote location and blissful atmosphere adds an essence of aura to this marvel. At the entrance, supported by a large wall, there is a small Dhwaja-Sthamba and a rather sharply carved Nandi. The sancutm sanctorum inside the distinct and tall Dravida style Vimana can be approached by a long passageway inside the single main mandapa. The idol of Lord Shiva is a large Linga. On the walls of the temple, there are beautiful carvings and niches of various Gods, but mostly dedicated to various forms of Lord Shiva like Bhikshatanamurthi, Nataraja. There are separate shrines in the temple complex dedicated to Lord Ganesa, Goddess Durga and Nayanar saints. 

Nandi Pavilion

 

But one frieze/relief caught my attention - on the north-east wall of the temple, there exists the Chandesanugrahamurthi / Rajendra Chola I pattabhishekham panel which has two different interpretations - As Chandesanugrahamurthi, a feature of South Indian Saiva temples, wherein Lord Shiva, flanked by Goddess Parvati is blessing Chandeshvara Nayanar, the celebrated Nayanar Bhakti saint. The other plausible explanation is that the carving actually belongs to Rajendra Chola I, coronated / garlanded by Lord Shiva, watched by Goddess Parvati - the subtle hints of the cementing of the Devaraya cult. 

Chandesangrahamurthi / Rajendra Pattabhishekam

 

No one knew why Rajendra decided to build the temple and the surrounding village of Gangaikonda Cholapuram - the true source of power of Imperial Cholas for a period of 250 years. As I roamed in the premises of the great temple, I realised that I was walking on the legacy of the Gangaikondan - the greatest among Imperial Cholas, whose armies would campaign on the banks of river Ganges, and whose navies would invade South-East Asia. At that point of time, the Chola emperor was the single most powerful man of South Asia and South-East Asia. 

 

 

Gangaikonda Cholapuram

 

Maheeth Veluvali, 

Monday - 25th of October, 2021.  

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.