Me at Hampi (Part-II)

Sasivekalu Ganesha

Kadlekalu Ganesha

(continued…2^nd day at Hampi) I’ve started the next day with the darshan of another huge monolithic idol of Lord Vinayaka called ‘Kadlekalu Ganesha’. At a distance of almost two kilo-metres towards Kamalapura, there are two small temples – Veerabhadra Swamy Temple and Chennakeshava Temple. A must visit place here is an underground Siva temple called Prasanna Virupaksha. Although not exactly under-ground, it is located on a slightly ditch-dug trench like platform. It is damaged but the mandapa has wonderful carvings.

Lotus Mahal

Elephant Stables

Another group of monuments including the Lotus Mahal and Elephant-Stables are located very far from here, slightly deviated from the road. To visit them, just like the Vittala temple, you got to buy a ticket. I was the first tourist of the day and it was a wonderful experience! Two watch towers guard the elaborate compound wall and in the centre are the gigantic, connected Elephant-Stables. Excavations are still going on around here and trespassing is prohibited at certain places. Farther northwards, there are many ruined Jain and Hindu temples with some of the finest carvings. At the exit point, there is a temple dedicated to SriRanga along with an inscription.

Hazara Ramalaya

Carvings inside Hazara Ramalaya

Hazara Ramalaya - purely on the basis of this temple alone, Hampi could have been declared a World Heritage Site! On the walls of this magnificent monument, there are terrific carvings – tales from Ramayana, perhaps the best in Vijayanagara! Time seems to stand still at this place and one full day is still not enough to appreciate the intricacy and expertise of these carvings. Turushkawada and a Masjid are to the south of this temple. A high-raised platform adorned with carvings of warriors and dancers called ‘Mahanavami Dibba’ used for social ceremonies along with a step well & the Queen’s Bath stand nearby. Finally, I’ve got to visit the ASI museum at Kamalapura. I’d advise to visit this museum first to have a broad idea about what to see at Hampi. En route, I saw an old temple dedicated to Anantasayana Mahavishnu temple between Kondanayakahalli and Hosapete. It was built by Sri Krishna DevaRaya, modeled on the basis of Srikakulandhra MahaVishnu temple. It isn’t properly maintained.

Dancers on Wall, Maha Navami Dibba

This is the end of my Hampi visit. As I took my more than uncomfortable but reserved seat on the Karnataka Sariga buss to Bijapur whose Sultans were once arch rivals of Vijayanagara, I was drenched in the grandeur of this once great city! It started raining heavily….or are they tears in my eyes!
 

Anantasayana Mahavishna Temple

On #Mytravels @ Hampi-Vijayanagara, 
11th-12th of June, 2019.

The Pain of a Wait...

Another day is set to end, and there is still no sign of her beloved King,

caught between hope and despair, she latches on to the doomed swing.

If thoughts could speak, she could've crafted an epic tale of longing,

If looks could burn, the entire forest will go down, her grief acknowledging.

No gentle breeze could move her ear-ring & no rains of joy to cover her tears,

no flowers of wonder to adorn her hair-bun, no gods to answer her prayers.

Day after day, the promising future of bliss appears bleak,

and night after night, only the charm of the past stays without a break.

Like spiders, people wove stories on her enchanted beauty,

kings fought & artists imagined - all for her, as if it's their duty.

But nothing matters to the one who waits....

none could truly comprehend her poignant traits!

The joy of friends and a chirping Koel or a Golden Deer -

things that mattered once are bitter and bereft of cheer.

Still, the alluring angel scans the horizon with her bedazzling eyes....

In Quest of love, even the pain of a wait has some evident highs!

Based on the oil painting by Raja Ravi Varma - 'Sakuntala', which I saw at the Government Museum, Chennai-Egmore. I think it's a replica, as I'm not certain if it's the original one. 
11th of May, 2019.

Me at Hampi (Part-I)

"The city of Bidjanagar (Hampi-Vijayanagara) is such that the pupil of the eye has never seen a place like it, and the ear of intelligence has never been informed that there existed anything to equal it in the world."                                                                               

-                               -  Abdur Razaq, Ambassador and traveller from Persia, 15^th Century.

Gopuram of Virupaksha Temple

Of all the historical places that I’ve visited, Hampi holds a special place in my heart and has an evident emotional connect. It was here that the Telugu language was enriched by the Ashtadiggajas (Eight Poets) patronized by SriKrishna DevaRaya, the greatest of Rayas, even as brutal battles were fought with firstly, the Bahmans and later, the Deccan Sultanates mostly for the control of Krishna-Tungabhadra Doab. And on a hot June day when the entire country is obsessed over the arrival of the deceptive South West Monsoon, I visited this wonderful place.

Virupaksha Temple as viewed from Hemakuta Hill

Regular City busses ply from Hosapete bus station (nearest city) to Hampi via the village of Kamalapura. The eye feast begins once the buss deviates from the main road at Kamalapura and takes left. Two hillocks with ruins littered here and there pass by. Finally, as I got down, the sight of the towering Gopuram of Virupaksha temple beckoned me. Virupaksha, a form of Lord Shiva is the family deity of the Rayas. The temple has a separate tank and Mandapam ensconced within it. Slightly damaged mural paintings dot the roof and walls of the temple. A very fine straight road connects the temple with Matanga Hill and Monolithic Bull. From the top of the Matanga Hill/Hillock, one could have a clear view of the entire ruins and temples at Hampi. Dotted with pillars and little mandapas on both sides, the walk from the Virupaksha temple towards Matanga Hill on that almost empty road had a rustic medieval aura to it, that I’ve felt like the Great Telugu Poet Srinadha, walking, about to be felicitated by the King of Vijayanagara, DevaRaya-II.

Inside Vitthala Temple

A tiring walk of 1.75 Kms from Virupaksha temple, towards the right side of the hill, passing through little shrines, past the small but snake like Tungabhadra river, King’s Balance and Sugriva Temple, brought me to the Vitthala Temple. En route - after some distance, I could not find proper sign boards for the temple, and this was a minor complaint. This temple is an outstanding monument! The two outer Gopurams of the temple are mostly damaged, but once inside, the feel is terrific. Two major mandapas adorn the temple, complete with rich pillar work and ornamentation. In the centre of the temple complex is the iconic Garuda Ratha (Garuda Chariot). Another Central Sabha Mandapam, – famed for it’s musical pillars and acoustics was under repair and renovation. The guards told that the actual reason for it’s closure was that too many eager & unsuspecting tourists were unknowingly damaging fragile pillars by hitting them repeatedly to listen music!

Pillar inside Vitthala Temple

Then, I’ve returned to the Virupaksha temple and trekked the Hemakuta Hill/Hillock which was to the right side of the temple. Many Jain & Hindu temples dot the hillock, roamed by groups of monkeys and langurs, including a temple dedicated to Mula-Virupaksha Raya, sort of father deity of Virupaksha. It is a treat to watch the Sun-Set from Hemakuta. Next to the hillock is a carved monolithic four handed idol of Lord Vinayaka called ‘Sasivekalu Ganesha’ (Sasivekalu=Mustard Seed). Farther eastwards across the road, adjacent to each other are the monolithic Urga-Narasimha and the 3 metres high Badava Linga. Their proximity suggests a recurring concept of Vijayanagara – that of equality between Saiva and Vaishnava traditions.

Ruins of Krishna Bazaar

Shri Krishna Temple

From there, I took another road for the walk back, and got to see the beautiful, partly damaged Krishna Temple. According to an inscription inside the temple, during the famous Kalinga Campaign, SriKrishna DevaRaya  brought an idol of Lord Shri Krishna from one of his conquests and installed it here. Opposite to this temple is the sprawling ruins of Krishna Bazaar – a place where ornaments and precious stones were traded commonly like vegetables and fruits during Vijayanagara times (allegedly). I could’ve been tempted to search the place for any of such treasures, but alas, my little knowledge of history meant that there are no such mundane treasures here, after the loot of the city following the Battle of Rakshasa-Tangadi (c.1565 CE).  Only the treasures of heritage are left. (...to be continued)

BadavaLinga

Ugra Narasimha

On #Mytravels, Hampi-Vijayanagara, 

11th and 12th of June, 2019.

Carved Par Excellence - At Mahabalipuram (Poem)

In this old realm of the proud Pallavas, I roamed at will,
struck by the grandeur of their architecture, I was amazed beyond thrill.

Shore Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva built during the reign of Narasimha Varma II (8th Century CE)

Great boulders and rocks were cut and the Five Chariots linked myth with reality,
An Elephant here and a Lion there, all in sync with the imperial royalty.
Out of hard granite stone, monuments were made and molded by sheer skill and grit,
and for centuries, people were amazed at this wonderful fit.

Mahisha Mardini Relief inside Mahishasura Mardini Rock cut Mandapam (c.mid 8th Century CE)

A temple on the Sea shore that survived the Great Tsunami -
Inspired work by Sthapatis that made the fiercest summer balmy.
Trimurthy, Varaha, Tiger - all cave temples of marvel and magnificience,
And Krishna's Butter Ball - naturally formed thence.

"Arjuna's Penance/Descent of the Ganges"

The Descent of the Ganges - an unmatched canvas of rock art,
Or is it Arjuna's Penance - a terrific work of sort?
As scholars debate, we common folk watch with admiration -
this town of Seven Pagodas - a fine, divine yet mundane creation.

Adi Varaha Panel inside Varaha Rock cut temple depicting Lord Vishnu as Varaha saving Bhu Devi

As I've left the place of the legendary 'Mamalla' via the East Coast Road,
I've felt progressively impressed of this heritage abode!

Me at the Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots, c.'Mahamalla' Narasimha Varma I)

Wednesday, 3rd of April, 2019.
Mahabalipuram/Mamallapuram (Kancheepuram), Tamil Nadu.

Our Wing Commander

In a war fought by mob and media frenzy, who won and who lost?

In a battle of perceptions, passions rose from the past.

When Planes crossed old lines and new precedents were set,

a scramble here and a dog fight there, and Our Wing Commander was caught.

War's a gentleman's game or so the powers thought at Geneva,

but, behind enemy lines, good will begets no 'Spasiba'.

Body blows and probing questions resulted in poise and calm,

the soldier was treated well - of this there wasn't any qualm.

Finally, at Wagah, the warrior returned, head bloody but unbowed,

'A new role model in a nation of false idols' said all aloud.

Confusion, Propaganda, Disillusion - despite all perils of this manner,

One thing stood tall - unflinching respect and awe towards 'Our Wing Commander'.   

Dedicated to Wing Commander Varthaman Abhinandan of IAF's 51 Squadron (Mig-21 Bison).

Jai Hind!

'At Pulwama"

Pristine snow clad tops of Kashmir flattered to deceive,
as blood's spilled in the valley - a repeated tale that's perceived.
A perverted day dream matches the crazy lust for violence,
But the fine men that paid the price are just statistics inspiring silence.

In War and in Peace, the men marched with great ease,
In Life and in Death, the duty mattered without cease.
A victim of geography - is that how this great nation remains?
Or still blaming the past for these tremendous pains?

'Define a terrorist - on what basis?' - Global leaders dither and deliberate.....
But, use our blood and tears as a measure, and anyone would appreciate.
When thorns were received, we responded with Roses,
Tolerance has a limit, and we couldn't see under our own noses.

An angry nation seething with frenzy and rage has spoken,
Yet remember Chanakya - ruthless logic must trump emotion.
"At Pulwama" - we shall remember those who laid their lives for the country's sake... 
And to those who lost their beloved, what other promise can we make?







Saturday - 16th of February, 2019.
"At Pulwama" - In fond remembrance of the CRPF Jawans killed in the line of duty at Pulwama on 14th of February, 2019.

The City of Whispering Monuments

One cannot help but notice a faint aroma of Medieval 'Je ne sais quoi' as one steps into Bidar. In Deccan, for almost 600 years, the city strategically survived in it's present form. It had it's moments of glory under the Bahmans (Ahmed Shah Al-Wali shifted the capital from Gulbarga to Bidar in 15th Century) and Barid Shahis, before the Great Mughal Aurangzeb annexed it to the Mughal Empire in late 17th Century. Located in the state of Karnataka, the city boasts a tolerant culture, craftily cutting across the twin perils of  region (very proximate to Telangana and Maharashtra) and religion (Monuments belonging to Hinduism, Islam and Sikhism). And we were looking at a marvel of history & culture, two weary but enthusiastic tourists - my brother and I.

Bidar Fort - Main entrance to the inner citadel

Ruins of the Old Fort

The major attraction is the Bidar Fort and the adjacent old ruins. The fort is truly awesome, formidable and a treat to witness. Ensconced within a moat and a double layered and long outer wall, the main citadel consists of a Museum, a dilapidated mosque (Solah Khamba), two large durbars (Diwan-I-Am and Diwan-I-Khas), the uniquely designed Tarkash Mahal, Rangeen Mahal and Takht Mahal (Royal Palace) apart from the ruins of another old fort. As we tagged inside we were happy to find a huge canon on a large wall tower within the fort - surely conquering such a fort required more luck than skill! The ruins of an old Madarassa and Mosque (now unsued) built by the famous Bahman Minister Mohammad Gawan is just a few steps away from the fort complex. Hard to believe that this was once a learning place of great repute, but that's history for you!

Gurudwara - Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib

En route to the Papanash Mahadev Temple

On Lohri, we visited the famous Gurudwara - Sri Nanak Jhira Sahib adjacent to the bus station. It's a wonderful experience as it was also our first visit to a Gurudwara. Two famous temples - one dedicated to Lord Shiva (Papanash Mahadev Temple - nestled superbly amidst lush green trees of hill slope) within the city and Lord Narasimha (Narasimha Jharna Cave Temple - wading through water in a cave to visit and pray to the deity) adjacent to the Telangana border are other must places to visit. Just 10 kilometers away from the city center at Ashtur, the giant tombs of Bahman Sultans offer a fascinating glimpse of the past. All the monuments are maintained with a great zeal, but we did hope that the Barid Shahi Tombs and garden inside the city could've been better protected. Bidar is also famous for the famous decorative metallurgy art of 'Birdriware'.

Bahman Tombs at Ashtur

After a mere two day sojourn, as our train slowly chugged into Andhra where the festive Sankrati rush is at a peak, I've truly understood why Bidar is called the city of 'Whispering Monuments', in the words of Colonel Hans Landa of Inglorious Basterds - 'Such a moniker is true and apt'.

A Grey Pelican's anguish

Grey Pelicans, also called Spot Billed Pelicans. By J.M.Garg - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=5732107

(In the words of a Grey Pelican, a resident bird in the Kolleru Lake)

 

"A faint glimmer of hope makes me live in quest of an old paradise lost,

as my place gets encroached and my life gets tossed.

A Wildlife Sanctuary with no wildlife is the norm of the day, 

some thoughts for nature are not on the agenda, and the weak are just the prey.

Where did the lake disappear? Should I ask the industries or the fish ponds?

Nothing is more troubling than seeing your world shrink as no one responds.

Storks, Ibises, Teals and Pintails - My friends visit from far off places,

and I lost my pride as they mock my home, the worst of life's phases.

Are the champions of Ramsar listening our plight? 

If all's lost, I'm just an old bird incapable of flight.

In the land of the vanishing lake, everything is business as usual,

But when things get bad, don't blame the nature as cruel!"

A Bridge over Kolleru Lake IM3847 - Own work

Kolleru Lake (including the adjacent Atapaka Wildlife Sanctuary), a Ramsar Site, considered as one of India's largest inland Freshwater Lakes is in dire straits. A cursory search in Google maps or latest satellite reports indicate that most of the lake is encroached upon by Aquaculture, Agriculture, Industries (Ice Making et al) and due to natural factors (growth of weeds like Water Hyacinth and Elephant Grass). Despite the efforts of people like T Patanjali Sastry and a plethora of cases in the High Court of Andhra Pradesh, governments (Central as well as State) play a deaf ear to the environmental concerns, indulging in regular de notifying of the legal limits of the Lake. 

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolleru_Lake 

Generations to come...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahatma_Gandhi

 

“Generations to come will scarce believe that such a one as this ever in flesh and blood walked upon this earth."

         - Albert Einstein on Mahatma Gandhiji

  

In an era of World Wars, a half naked seditious fakir strode in London, annoying the powers that be.

And empires rose and fell, clutched by seeds of violence as a stark necessity. 

Truth and Non-Violence - weapons of the weak? Wondered the wicked rulers of the Sea..

'Salt, Mr.Viceroy' said the little man, as people flocked to him as a sign of destiny.

A long struggle for freedom and reform followed as many heroes came to the fore, 

And his presence strengthened the moral courage unmatched with neither power nor position.

But the greatest crowd puller was cowed down as bloodshed came to the fore...

'The light has gone out', so to speak, with the stalking ghosts of freedom and partition.

Alas, his legacy was exploited as he was either revered blindly or criticized mercilessly, 

A life of confused experiments and Himayalan Blunders - he was not a sage,

but at least had the courage to say 'My life is my message' and adhere to it meticulously!

And truly, in the march of a nation, this Mahatma's role is revered at every stage!

Tuesday - 2nd of October, 2018. (149th Gandhi Jayanthi)
Palakollu.

http://gandhi.gov.in/

Vajpayee Ji

‘The Head will not bow’ he said as an appeal for peace fell on deaf ears,

at Kargil, this leader of people and man of letters was snubbed, stoking all fears.

But then a Pigeon flew to Lahore and a call for brotherhood was made,  

however too short was the tenure for a little & brittle good!

An attempt to stitch the highways in Gold,

a love for language and polity, so graceful yet bold.

A new ministry for disinvestment, to unshackle the License Raj,

a  fine leader with finesse and flaws  and yet those have a valid cause.

To be nuclear without an intent to attack and to fight without malice,

to talk without lecturing &  to criticize without slander – so much for less!

A good son of the nation departed, the collapse of a strong pillar,

and we mark the day and remember our beloved nation builder!

Friday, 17th of August, 2017.
Picture Credits - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atal_Bihari_Vajpayee#/media/File:Atal_Bihari_Vajpayee_2002-06-12.jpg