The Sun Temple

 

The Jagmohana of Sun Temple, Konark

"Here, the language of Stone surpasses the language of man."
- Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore (c.1861-1941 CE) on The Sun Temple of Konark.

 

Langula Narasingha Deba I receiving African Merchants' Gift (Giraffe) - Arkha Kshetra

I have had the pleasure and honor of visiting the Sun Temple at Konark thrice (June/July 2019, November 2021 and June 2024) and it is a peerless experience. The Sun Temple of Konark is a ruined temple dedicated to Lord Surya / Lord Arka, the Sun God, located in the coastal town of Konark in Puri District of Odisha. It is the pinnacle of Kalinga Architecture and the most iconic monument of Odisha. The town and the Kshetra finds mention in the Brahma Purana as Konaditya, Arkha Kshetra, Padma Kshetra and in the Periplus of the Erythrean Sea as Kainapara. It is also associated with the legend of Samba's Curse in Bhagavatam and Mahabharatam. The temple in it's current state, owes it's existence to 'Langula' Narasingha Deba I, the King of Eastern Gangas who ruled from c.1238 CE to c.1264 CE. He succeeded his father, Anantavarman Chodagangadeba, of the Puri Jagannath Temple fame, and was consumed by a burning desire to match his father in construction zeal.

Crocodile consuming Fish themed faucet - Chhaya Devi Shrine

The main temple, completed c.1250 CE, was planned as the Chariot of Lord Surya, complete with Seven Horses and 24 Chakras i.e, spoked wheels, each divided into 8 equal parts representing Praharas i.e, divisions of time. Three separate icons, denoting Early Morning, Afternoon and Evening represent Lord Surya. Chalcolite, Khondalite  and Granite, sourced from the Eastern Ghats made up this 13th Century Monument. Some sources state that the Idol was in a suspended state, not touching the ground, owing to usage of Iron and Magnetism. A large Mandapa called the Nata Mandir, full of fantastic figurines of dancers, singers, mythical creatures, Mithun etc., welcomes us, followed by the main temple. It is a pity that only the Jagmohana i.e, Assembly Hall stands today, and the Deula is completely destroyed. The adjacent buildings attached to the temple like Bhoga Mandir, Chhaya Devi Mandir are also ruined. 

Nata Mandir

The recurring theme of Gaja-Simha is an interesting feature. Of the surviving sculptures, an Elephant trampling a condemned man evokes horror and awe in equal measure. At the shrine of Chhaya Devi, the faucet, shaped like a Crocodile eating a Fish seems so lifelike. As to why the temple was abandoned / ignored - mystery surrounds. Many theories exist viz, Invasion and desecration by Bengal Sultanate and later Mughals (plausible but not the only reason), lack of interest shown by successors, an alleged disagreement between the King and his Minister, proximity to Bay of Bengal causing decay, Konark losing it's prominence to Puri and Bhubaneshwar....the list goes on. The fact remains that, at it's prime, the temple was a source of elegance, envy and efficiency, fondly called as 'The Black Pagoda' by foreign travelers and traders.

Sun Temple, Konark

Today, the monument stands, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting the curious and the devout, a true icon of heritage. Indian Oil Corporation's Arkha Kshetra, an interpretation center offers brilliant insights into the temple and it's hoary past - a matter of pride, pain and passion.

A Chakra @ Sun Temple, Konark

Accessiblity 
Konark forms the Golden Triangle of Odisha / East Indian Tourism circuit, along with Puri (50 Kms) and Bhubaneshwar (60 Kms). It is a Notified Area Council Panchayat, accessible through road from either Puri (via Balukand - Konark Road running parallel to the Bay of Bengal and crossing Chandrabhaga River) or Bhubaneshwar. Tourist busses and Privately operated vehicles operate regularly to and from these three places. Konark also possesses the Chandrabhaga beach, India's and Asia's first Blue Flag certified beach (2018).

 

Us @ Sun Temple, Konark

"The Sun Temple" - on The Sun Temple, Konark

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 13th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali. 

Konark and Puri

"Here the language of stone surpasses the language of human." - Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore on Konark Sun Temple.  

Konark Sun Temple

Konark Sun Temple - Temple farther/ South side

The Summer is over, or so it seems. Under the benign gaze of the rain bearing clouds, a jam-packed Private buss with very little room to stand took me from Bhubaneshwar's Kaplana Square to Konark Sun Temple, a place that I've wanted to visit for a long time. Public transport is an issue. There are tourist packages by OSTDC,but I decided to go alone, taking my own time to enjoy the monument.  Past the lust green rural terrain of Odisha, via the towns of Nimpada and Gop, finally, I got down at the Bus station of the NAC (Notified Area Committee) of Konark. 

The only complete stone wheel

One of the Seven Horses

Clearly visible from a distance, Konark Sun Temple, the monumental 'Black Pagoda' built by one of the Greatest Kalinga Eastern Ganga Emperors, 'Langula' Narasingha Deva I stands at the centre of this town. An area of 500 meters around this majestic temple, although teeming with little shops and hawkers, is declared as 'Plastic Free Zone'. At the entrance, there is a raised Mandapa called 'Nata Mandir' guarded by two stone-Lions on either side, with beautiful carvings of Odissi and ornamented pillars - a magnificent sight! Beyond this lays the temple - now almost caving in, supported by a large wooden superstructure. Designed as an ornamented chariot of the Sun-God, Lord Surya, and symbolically drawn by stone carved statues of Seven Horses (only 3 can be noticed as of today, the rest are completely destroyed), this temple once had 24 Stone wheels exquisitely carved with 24 spokes each representing 24 hours of a day. Sadly, only one stone wheel is completely undamaged. Towards the right, there are ruins including that of a kitchen. 

Kalinga Lion Motif in Stone near Nata Mandir

Brutal representation of a War Elephant

Interestingly, the original Vimana-Deul of the temple which measured upto a height of 70 metres no longer exists as it was completely destroyed in 1837. In the South west and South east, there are two separate shrines dedicated to Mayadevi (an unkown deity some would associate as Chaya Devi, wife of Lord Surya) and to Vaishanava tradition respectively. A walk around this monument, is spellbinding and brings one close to an era of Kalinga Grandeur - when War Elephants clashed and Maritime trade prospered. Just outside the monument across the road, there is an archeological museum dedicated exclusively to this Sun Temple. It is a must visit - not the case unlike many museums where photography has a separate charge/or is prohibited. It has some wonderful artifacts! A short documentary is shown inside a theatre - I only wished they'd explain more interesting scientific facts about the temple rather than just myths. It was around 8.30 in the morning when I reached here, and it's almost 11.30 by the time I'm done.  

Makara (Crocodile) Motif, Mayadevi temple

Nata Mandir

The trip from Konark to Puri is very enjoyable. The road runs via the famous Chandrabhaga beach, almost parallel to the Bay of Bengal, criss-crossing the Balukhand-Konark Wild Life Sanctuary. Once again it's a jam packed private buss, but I managed to get a seat. A single main road like a straight line, large and segregated connects the Shree Kshetra (Jagannadh Temple) with the bus-stop. Initially skeptical about how some Pandas mistreat gullible piligrims - all fears found to be false in my case, I had a wonderful experience in the temple. It's a pleasant afternoon, but there is no crowd, as the Rath Yatra is yet to start. There is an element of disorganization, but the architecture, the ambiance, the feel...it's all amazing & perhaps marks one of the finest temples that I've visited. I took the Bhog offering too, and the Bhog (Prasadam) is prepared in the kitchen (said to be one of the largest in the world) within the temple premises supervised by the Annadan Bhog Committee. 

Puri Shree Kshetra

Chariots getting ready for Rath Yatra

As I've returned to Bhubaneshwar, I've only wished I had 1000 eyes (Sahasraksha) like Devendra to properly and prudently appreciate the enormous & elegant Sun Temple of Konark (Kainapara) and the Shree Kshetra!

#Mytravels, Konark & Puri, 

30eth of June, 2019.