The Sun Temple

 

The Jagmohana of Sun Temple, Konark

"Here, the language of Stone surpasses the language of man."
- Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore (c.1861-1941 CE) on The Sun Temple of Konark.

 

Langula Narasingha Deba I receiving African Merchants' Gift (Giraffe) - Arkha Kshetra

I have had the pleasure and honor of visiting the Sun Temple at Konark thrice (June/July 2019, November 2021 and June 2024) and it is a peerless experience. The Sun Temple of Konark is a ruined temple dedicated to Lord Surya / Lord Arka, the Sun God, located in the coastal town of Konark in Puri District of Odisha. It is the pinnacle of Kalinga Architecture and the most iconic monument of Odisha. The town and the Kshetra finds mention in the Brahma Purana as Konaditya, Arkha Kshetra, Padma Kshetra and in the Periplus of the Erythrean Sea as Kainapara. It is also associated with the legend of Samba's Curse in Bhagavatam and Mahabharatam. The temple in it's current state, owes it's existence to 'Langula' Narasingha Deba I, the King of Eastern Gangas who ruled from c.1238 CE to c.1264 CE. He succeeded his father, Anantavarman Chodagangadeba, of the Puri Jagannath Temple fame, and was consumed by a burning desire to match his father in construction zeal.

Crocodile consuming Fish themed faucet - Chhaya Devi Shrine

The main temple, completed c.1250 CE, was planned as the Chariot of Lord Surya, complete with Seven Horses and 24 Chakras i.e, spoked wheels, each divided into 8 equal parts representing Praharas i.e, divisions of time. Three separate icons, denoting Early Morning, Afternoon and Evening represent Lord Surya. Chalcolite, Khondalite  and Granite, sourced from the Eastern Ghats made up this 13th Century Monument. Some sources state that the Idol was in a suspended state, not touching the ground, owing to usage of Iron and Magnetism. A large Mandapa called the Nata Mandir, full of fantastic figurines of dancers, singers, mythical creatures, Mithun etc., welcomes us, followed by the main temple. It is a pity that only the Jagmohana i.e, Assembly Hall stands today, and the Deula is completely destroyed. The adjacent buildings attached to the temple like Bhoga Mandir, Chhaya Devi Mandir are also ruined. 

Nata Mandir

The recurring theme of Gaja-Simha is an interesting feature. Of the surviving sculptures, an Elephant trampling a condemned man evokes horror and awe in equal measure. At the shrine of Chhaya Devi, the faucet, shaped like a Crocodile eating a Fish seems so lifelike. As to why the temple was abandoned / ignored - mystery surrounds. Many theories exist viz, Invasion and desecration by Bengal Sultanate and later Mughals (plausible but not the only reason), lack of interest shown by successors, an alleged disagreement between the King and his Minister, proximity to Bay of Bengal causing decay, Konark losing it's prominence to Puri and Bhubaneshwar....the list goes on. The fact remains that, at it's prime, the temple was a source of elegance, envy and efficiency, fondly called as 'The Black Pagoda' by foreign travelers and traders.

Sun Temple, Konark

Today, the monument stands, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting the curious and the devout, a true icon of heritage. Indian Oil Corporation's Arkha Kshetra, an interpretation center offers brilliant insights into the temple and it's hoary past - a matter of pride, pain and passion.

A Chakra @ Sun Temple, Konark

Accessiblity 
Konark forms the Golden Triangle of Odisha / East Indian Tourism circuit, along with Puri (50 Kms) and Bhubaneshwar (60 Kms). It is a Notified Area Council Panchayat, accessible through road from either Puri (via Balukand - Konark Road running parallel to the Bay of Bengal and crossing Chandrabhaga River) or Bhubaneshwar. Tourist busses and Privately operated vehicles operate regularly to and from these three places. Konark also possesses the Chandrabhaga beach, India's and Asia's first Blue Flag certified beach (2018).

 

Us @ Sun Temple, Konark

"The Sun Temple" - on The Sun Temple, Konark

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 13th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.