The 'Jewel Box' of Agra

Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 (Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, Agra, Uttar Pradesh - March 2023)

The itinerary that was supposedly planned for me by the auto wallah was modified with my caveat - that I'd like to visit the tomb of Itimad Ud Daula. From the perspective of Agra Cantonment Railway Station (locally called 'Chavani'), and regarding tourists in general, this monument is usually skipped as people remain in perpetual awe and throng the Taj Mahal in droves ignoring other lesser known places. It is located across the Yamuna river, a bit far from Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. The auto passed through the dusty lanes of Agra, bypassing sweet shops selling Petha. Agra wasn't modern in any sense, and the civic amenities are found lacking. And, one fine late March morning, I stood before the Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, and I was the only visitor there.

Me @ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

There are three iconic monuments of Mughal Architecture, primarily and loosely based on the Tomb of Tamelane in Uzbekistan :-

1. Tomb of Humayun

2. Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

3. The Taj Mahal 

@ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

The first two were commissioned by women and the third was in memory of a woman. The tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, built between 1622 and 1628 CE, was commissioned by Nur Jahan, Consort of  Emperor Jahangir, in memory of her father, Mirza Ghais Baig, a noble who started his career under Akbar, the Great. The noble was honoured as 'Itimad Ud Daula' i.e, "pillar of the state".  The building, essentially a mausoleum, marks a paradigm in Mughal architechture, as the Red Sandstone was replaced by White Marble. By early 17th Century, the Mughals were an established power in North India, with their confidence aided by imperial consolidation reflected in their buildings.

@ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

The mausoleum's exterior is betrayed by it's rich interior. The European technique of 'Pietra Dura' was first applied here, wherein exquisite precious stones and gems were used in creating beautiful paintings and decoration, often embellished in the form of flower vases, symmetrical objects etc,. The minarets and the overall façade point to a methodical and mathematical precision. Few years later, the tomb would inspire the Taj Mahal, now a Wonder of the World. Verily, it stands up to the moniker, ‘Baccha Taj / Baby Taj’ and ‘Jewel Box’.   

 

Pietra Dura Work @ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

The 'Jewel Box' of Agra

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
24th of May, 2025.