కొండపల్లి

(కొండపల్లి కోట, నవంబర్ 2023) 

 

కోట వద్ద నేను

కృష్ణానదికి ఉత్తరాన, విజయవాడ నగరానికి పశ్చిమంగా కొండపల్లి అనే గ్రామముంది. ఇక్కడికి దగ్గర లోనే    తూర్పు కనుమలు, కళింగ ఖరవేలుడు 'కన్నబెన్న' నదిగా అభివర్ణించిన కృష్ణానదిని  తొలిసారి  ముద్దాడాయి, మరియు గోదావరి-కృష్ణా డెల్టా ప్రాంతం ముగిసింది. ఈ గ్రామం పొనికిచెట్టు కలప నుంచి తయారు చేసిన కొండపల్లి బొమ్మలకు, గ్రామపేరు తోనే వున్న కొండపల్లి కోట / ఖిల్లా కు సుప్రసిద్ధి. కొండవీడు కోట తో సమానమైన ప్రశస్తి కలిగిన ఈ కోట తెలుగు వారి మధ్యయుగ చరిత్ర తెలుసుకోవడానికి ఉపయుక్తం. 

శిథిలాలు 

ఈ కోట కాకతీయులపతన కాలానికే  (1323 CE) వున్నది అన్నది నిర్వివాదాంశం. ఆ కాలం లోనే ఈ కోట  ఓం ప్రధమంగా ముదిగొండ చాళుక్యులు, ముసునూరి నాయకులు వంటి  సామంత రాజ్యాలు, చిన్న చిన్న స్వాతంత్ర్య రాజ్యాల స్వాధీనంలో వుండేది అని శాసన సాక్ష్యం. 14 వ శతాబ్దంలో ప్రోలయ వేమారెడ్డి రెడ్డి రాజ్య స్థాపన తో ఆంధ్రదేశం లో ఒక నూతన సూర్యోదయం మొదలయ్యింది. ఇదే కాలం లో ఆంధ్ర దేశ మధ్యభాగాముగా, కొండపల్లి వాసికెక్కింది. అటు తర్వాత కళింగ సూర్యవంశ గజపతులు, గోల్కొండ కుతూబ్షాహీలు, మొగలాయిలు, హైదరాబాద్ నైజాం సంస్థానానికి చెందిన అసాఫ్ ఝాఈలు వరసగా కొండపల్లి ని ఏలారు. చివరకు బ్రిటీష్ వారి హయాంలో కొండపల్లి సైనిక అవసరాలకు స్థావారంగా (Garrison) గా మారింది.                                               

కుతూబ్షహీల శాసనం 

'ఖగపతుల్, నరపతుల్, గజపతుల్ సాగించిరి సమరము' అని ఒక మధ్యయుగ కవి తెలిపినట్టుగా,  పదిహేనవ శతాబ్దం లో బహమనీలు, గజపతులు, విజయనగర సమ్రజ్యాధీశుల మధ్య మొదలైన త్రైపాక్షిక రణం లో కొండపల్లి ని వశపరుచుకోవడం కీలకమైంది. మొదటగా, సూర్యవంశ గజపతి కపిలేంద్ర దేవుని కొడుకైన హాంవీరదేవ రౌత్రాయా కొండపల్లి ని జయించాడు. సుమారు అర్ధ శతాబ్దం తర్వాత, తన కళింగ జైత్రయాత్ర లో శ్రీ కృష్ణదేవరాయలు, కొండపల్లి కోట ని ముట్టడించాడు. గజపతుల కళింగ రాజ్యానికి కొండపల్లి సుమారు నూరు ఏళ్ళ పాటు దక్షిన సరిహద్దు అయ్యింది.  

కోట ద్వారం

నేడు శిథిలమైన కొండపల్లి కోట అత్యంత సుందరమైన ప్రకృతి వడి లో, పచ్చని చెట్ల మధ్య, పూర్వ వైభవం కొదవైనా విరాజిల్లుతోంది. కోట ని రెందు విధాలు గా చేరుకోవొచ్చు - మొదటగా కొండపల్లి గ్రామము ప్రధాన వీధి (కొండపల్లి బొమ్మల చేతిపనివారి ప్రధాన వీధి) నుంచి కొండ వెనకవైపు గా కాలిబాటన ఒక దారి, రెండవది, ఇబ్రహీంపట్నం నుండి రోడ్డు మర్గాం ద్వారా. శిథిలమైన బురూజు దర్వాజాలు రెండు, గదుల తో వున్న తనీషా రాజభవనం, చెరసాల, అత్యంత గంభీరంగా, గత వైభవాన్ని చాటుతూ స్వాగతిస్తాయి. రాష్త్ర ప్రభుత్వం ఎప్పటినుంచో కొండపల్లి కి విశేష జనాదరణ కల్పించాలి అని కృషి చేస్తొంది. ప్రభుత్వ నూతన పర్యాటక విధానం ఈ దిశగా ఒక మంచి అడుగు.

   

కొండపల్లి బొమ్మ 

 

కొండపల్లి 

మహీత్ వెలువలి,
16 సలాది జమీందార్ వీధి , పాలకొల్లు ,.
31 మే , 2025.

     

The Hill Fort

(Kondapalli Fort, November2023) 

 

Me at the Fort

To the north of river Krishna, to the West of the city of Vijayawada, lies the village of Kondapalli, literally meaning hill village / hamlet / settlement. The irregular Eastern Ghats touch the banks of River Krishna, and the fertile Godavari-Krishna Delta ends here. The village is noted for Kondapalli Toys, sourced from local soft wood called Tella Poniki. It also houses the eponymous Fort of Kondapalli. Together with Kondaveedu Fort, it is a well noted Fort of Andhra Pradesh, that harks back to Medieval ages.

Ruins

The fort had humble origins, and was reportedly in existence during the fall of the Kakatiyas in c.1323 CE. Sources attribute it to various fighting factions and feudal dynasties viz, Mudigonda Chanakyas, Musunuri Nayakas. During 14th Century CE, a new dawn arrived in Andhra Desa, however shortlived. Under Prolaya Vema Reddy, the Independent Reddi Kingdom emerged and Kondapalli's stature rose, as a central location of Telugus in an increasingly fragmented polity. The next centuries lent much credence to Kondapalli's prominence, as Suryavamsa Gajapatis of Kalinga held sway, followed by Qutubshahis of Golconda, short lived Mughal Suzerainty, AsafJhais (Nizam) of Hyderabad, and eventually,  the fort turned into a military bastion and garrison under the British.  

A Qutub Shahi Inscription

In 15th Century, when the tripartite struggle peaked between the Bahmani Sultanate, Rayas of Vijayanagar and Suryavamsa Gajapatis of Kalinga, Kondapalli changed hands frequently, and was initially captured by Hamvira Routraya of Kalinga, feat replicated half a century later by Sri Krishna Devaraya in his famed Kalinga campaign (c.1513-1520 CE). Kondaplli marked the Southern extent of Gajapatis. 

Entrance to Fort

Today, the ruins and ramparts of the fort offer a picturesque site, and it is accessible on foot from the village of Kondaplli through the Toys Street,  as well as by road from Ibrahimpatnam, with the Ghat road dotted by Quarry lorries on a long queue. The Darwazas, ruined Jail Khana, Tanisha Palace with chambers, offer a sombre sight, pointing to a lost era. There is a huge scope for development, and the State Government of Andhra Pradesh has taken due note of it, vide it's new Tourism Policy. 

   

Kondapalli Doll

 

The Hill Fort

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
31st of May, 2025.

     

The 'Jewel Box' of Agra

Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 (Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, Agra, Uttar Pradesh - March 2023)

The itinerary that was supposedly planned for me by the auto wallah was modified with my caveat - that I'd like to visit the tomb of Itimad Ud Daula. From the perspective of Agra Cantonment Railway Station (locally called 'Chavani'), and regarding tourists in general, this monument is usually skipped as people remain in perpetual awe and throng the Taj Mahal in droves ignoring other lesser known places. It is located across the Yamuna river, a bit far from Agra Fort and the Taj Mahal. The auto passed through the dusty lanes of Agra, bypassing sweet shops selling Petha. Agra wasn't modern in any sense, and the civic amenities are found lacking. And, one fine late March morning, I stood before the Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, and I was the only visitor there.

Me @ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

There are three iconic monuments of Mughal Architecture, primarily and loosely based on the Tomb of Tamelane in Uzbekistan :-

1. Tomb of Humayun

2. Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

3. The Taj Mahal 

@ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

The first two were commissioned by women and the third was in memory of a woman. The tomb of Itimad Ud Daula, built between 1622 and 1628 CE, was commissioned by Nur Jahan, Consort of  Emperor Jahangir, in memory of her father, Mirza Ghais Baig, a noble who started his career under Akbar, the Great. The noble was honoured as 'Itimad Ud Daula' i.e, "pillar of the state".  The building, essentially a mausoleum, marks a paradigm in Mughal architechture, as the Red Sandstone was replaced by White Marble. By early 17th Century, the Mughals were an established power in North India, with their confidence aided by imperial consolidation reflected in their buildings.

@ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

 

The mausoleum's exterior is betrayed by it's rich interior. The European technique of 'Pietra Dura' was first applied here, wherein exquisite precious stones and gems were used in creating beautiful paintings and decoration, often embellished in the form of flower vases, symmetrical objects etc,. The minarets and the overall façade point to a methodical and mathematical precision. Few years later, the tomb would inspire the Taj Mahal, now a Wonder of the World. Verily, it stands up to the moniker, ‘Baccha Taj / Baby Taj’ and ‘Jewel Box’.   

 

Pietra Dura Work @ Tomb of Itimad Ud Daula

The 'Jewel Box' of Agra

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
24th of May, 2025.

The Birth of Pax Magadha

Dad @ the iconic rock cut elephant, Dhauli

(Dhauli, Bhubaneshwar, Odisha, 

November 2021)

The Afternoon Sun was merciless upon us, menacing with a dash of urgency, even though it was November. 8 Kms to the South of Bhubaneshwar diverted from the oft taken Puri Road, lays the hallow ground of Dhaulagiri, the legendary battleground of India's most famous Ancient War. Dhauli / Dhaulagiri now houses an Asokan rock Edict, a rock cut Elephant and a new, large Buddhist Shanti Sthupa. 

In 261 BCE, the Mauryan Emperor of Magadha, Asoka the Great, as per his own recorded inscriptions, defeated and annexed Kalinga, with one decisive final battle at Dhauli / Dhaulagiri (?). After the bloody battle, the Emperor, dejected with violence, increasingly took solace in Hinyana Buddhism, and pursued the concept of Dhamma with a renewed zeal, and became a Pacifist, as per Buddhist tales. Modern day historians are more balanced, and view Asoka's Dhamma as merely an extension of his Statecraft, a tool to consolidate his empire, albeit with peaceful means and within practical ends. A code of conduct was envisaged for people and officials, and ostentation and rituals were frowned upon, as Asoka, being a 'Benevolent Despost', was stretching the Chanakyan adage of 'King as a Father to his subjects' to it's most logical extent.   

"The beloved of the Gods declares that victory of Dhamma (Righteousness) to be the true victory" proclaims the victorious emperor's Rock Edict XIII at Dhauli, now protected. A rock cut elephant, perhaps, the first of it's kind in the Sub Continent welcomes one to the site. Today, the small hills and nearby meadows are peaceful, as people visit the Dhauli Shanti Sthupa located nearby. I looked around, and wondered aloud, as to what would inspire men to take up arms, and wage great battles? Under the weight of the titles of Kings, How did the common man fare and suffer? How could abstract concepts and material pursuits combine to create bouts of war and peace?  Doesn't Time destroy everything? Centuries thence, empires of yore crumbled into obscurity, in what way? Perhaps in the words of Ernest Hemingway, "gradually and then suddenly."     

Dhauli forms a lesser known part of the East Indian / Odisha Triangle comprising Puri, Konark and Bhubaneshwar. Yet the place's significance cannot be missed, for it marked the death of a war and the birth of Pax Magadha....  

Dhauli Shanti Sthupa

 

The Birth of Pax Magadha

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
21st of May, 2025.

The Benevolent Ugra Narasimha

@ Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, Hampi

 

(Group of Monuments at Hampi - Vijayanagara, Vijayanagara District, Karnataka 

December 2024)

 

"Это Вишну

This is Vishnu"

A lively group of Russian tourists passed by on foot, when their guide finished description of the Vasihanava Insignia including Sudarshana Chakra and Panchajanya Conch in Russian. It was already late in the evening and we were exploring Hampi-Vijayanagara, the once crowned capital of Vijayanagara Samrajyamu, noted for it's grandeur and splendor, the likes of which the naked eye has never experienced, to quote Abdur Razaq, the Persian Safavid Ambassador in early 15th Century.

The Group of Monuments at Hampi is an iconic international tourist destination - one that beckons to the glory days of Vijayanagara Era (c.1336-1565 CE). One of the iconic monuments is an Idol.  

This so called Ugra Narasimha Idol is dedicated to Lord Sri Maha Vishnu in his Narasimha Avatar (Man-Lion). Hindu Scriptures speak of the devout Prahlada, who invokes Lord Sri Maha Vishnu. The Great God appeared in his Narasimha Avatar and slew Prahlada's father, the embodiment of  evil, Rakshasa Hiranya Kashyapa. As per an adjacent inscription, the idol was the sole surviving part of the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple, commissioned by Krishna Bhatt, in c.1528 CE on the express instructions of the greatest Vijayanagara Emperor, Sri Krishna Devaraya. One would be amazed at the gulf between reality and perception - the idol is wrongly but popularly mentioned as Ugra Narasimha, with Ugra referring to fierce, but is originally Lakshmi Narasimha i.e, Narasimha with his consort, Goddess Lakshmi Devi.

 

The badly damaged Idol, the chopped off limb that could at one point of time seated Goddess Lakshmi Devi, could be due to the disastrous sack of Hampi after the Battle of Tallikota (c.1565 CE). The idol is located adjacent to the Bhadava Linga, a large Linga partially submerged in a well like small temple. "Bhadava" in Kannada means poor and the name ascribes to the installation of the Linga by a poor woman, but that is a tale for a different day!

 

The Benevolent Ugra Narasimha stood the test of time, although bereft of his beloved consort, continues to awe admirers from centuries and far off places, and would continue to do so.......

 

  

The Benevolent Ugra Narasimha

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,.
20eth of May, 2025.