Andhra's own Kalinga - Srimukhalingam

My brother at the temple

 

 

 

 

 

 

Srimukhalingam temple complex

Main Shrine entrance

(June 2019)....Srikakulam, the northern most district of Andhra Pradesh is home to many Ancient Hindu temples and Buddhist ruins. The Sun Temple at Arasavelli, the Kurmanatha temple (Shri MahaVishnu as Kurma Avatar) at Srikurmam and the Srimukhalingeswara swamy (Lord Shiva) temple of Srimukhalingam - these three constitute a special and the most popular group of temples here. The architectural achievements of the Eastern Gangas of Kalinga (Early Medieval age -c.?-15th Centuries) are tremendous. But, even before Konark and Puri became the glorified synonyms of Kalinga's architecture, there was Srimukhalingam. Kalinganagara - the modern day village of Srimukhalingam in Jalamuru mandal of Srikakulam district was the first capital of Eastern Gangas.

A Warrior

Carving of Apsara

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Srimukhalingeswara swamy temple is perhaps the only monument of Andhra Pradesh in Kalinga architectural style, untainted by later additions. The remote location of the village adds a sort of 'Je ne sais quoi' to the temple's already ancient ambiance. The Shiva Linga has a distinct carving of Lord Shiva's face, hence the name 'Sri Mukha Lingam' (Telugu - The Linga with the Lord's face) is apt. In fact, a legend explains that the Linga had it's origin from a Madhuca tree (Madhuca Longifolia) trunk. In terms of architectural style, the monument is perhaps the first of it's kind - an artistic experiment of the Eastern Gangas, who later perfected it at Jajpur, Bhubaneshwar, Konark and Puri.

Carvings on wall

The large temple complex is built in Trikuta plan - three separate shrines of Madhukeswara, Bheemeswara and Someshwara temples on a common raised platform. The Carvings on the temple walls show signs of brilliant worksmanship. The sad fact of this place is, and I regret as I type this, the low-key maintenance of the temple and the apparent emotional blackmailing by some priests for money, which I did not find at any other temple, till date. Another disappointing factor is the long and weary road - small, dreadfully deserted and full of cracks as if it were the cricket pitch on 5th day of a test match.

Carvings on outer entrace

Yet, it remains a great place with an element of mystery and history combined - for example, sample this fact - Historians know that Kamarnava II of Eastern Gangas built the temple. But they could not exactly date this temple - 8th Century? 11th Century? 10th Century? Or let it reamain a mystery till we get hold of conclusive evidence....

The temple

 

Road to Srimukhalingam