The Last Great Living Chola Temple....

Me at the Periya Nayaki Shrine

September 2023 - Airavateswarar Temple, Tarasuram (Outskirts of Kumbhakonam), Tamil Nadu

Rajagambhira Mukhamandapam

The Airavateswarar Temple of Tarasuram, dedicated to Lord Shiva as Airavateswara, is the third, last and latest temple forming part of the Great Living Chola Temples - a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a fine specimen of Chola Temple Architecture. It was constructed during the rule of Raja Raja II (r.c.1146-1172 CE), in c.1166 CE. Although the Imperial Cholas ruled a vast area, their glory days of Raja Raja I and Rajendra I seemed to be far behind. Tarasuram stands adjacent to Kumbhakonam (20 minutes away), the latter known for it's Coffee, Educational Institutions and Temples, and is well connected by privately operated busses and autos. In fact, from the Central Bus station of Kumbhakonam, Adi Kumbheswarar Temple, Sarangapani Temple and Tarasuram are located on the same route.

A Mural

The temple is square-planned, and once boasted seven streets (ala Srirangam), and is mythologically associated with the tale that Airavata, the White Elephant - Royal mount of Lord Devendra, once cursed, prayed Lord Shiva, and dipped in the temple tank for absolution. The legend is still venerated as people dip in the temple tank, whose waters are replenished by the adjacent Cauvery River. The temple's plan is based on the chariots / cars which are used in procession of deities. The main temple possesses the Rajagambhira Mukhamandapam - the finest Chola Mandapam. Of particular interest is the World's first optical illusion in stone - Rishabha Kunjaram - a beautiful amalgamation of the heads of the Bull and the Elephant - which are repliacted later on in the temples at Ontimitta (Kadapa) and Hampi-Vijayanagaram. An adjacent Subsidary Shrine is dedicated to Goddess Periya Nayaki. 

Rishabha Kunjaram - World's first optical illusion in stone

The Arga Mandapa has the so called singing steps - a wonder that's found in some Medieval Era Temples. As is the case with Tamil Saiva temples, the images of the Nayanars are found along with tales depicting their lives. Niche carvings of Ardhanadheeswara, Gaja Lakshmi adorn the Vimana. The temple, in terms of pure architecture, may not match the grandeur of the more popular Brihadisvara Temples at Thanjavur and Gangaikonda Cholapuram, but, sculpturally and aesthetically, is a class of it's own, with beautiful images and standardized Pillars. It is truly the last great living Chola temple. 

Ardhanadheeswara Niche Carving

"The Last Great Living Chola Temple" - on The Airavateswarar Temple, Tarasuram

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 27th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.    

The Sun Temple

 

The Jagmohana of Sun Temple, Konark

"Here, the language of Stone surpasses the language of man."
- Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore (c.1861-1941 CE) on The Sun Temple of Konark.

 

Langula Narasingha Deba I receiving African Merchants' Gift (Giraffe) - Arkha Kshetra

I have had the pleasure and honor of visiting the Sun Temple at Konark thrice (June/July 2019, November 2021 and June 2024) and it is a peerless experience. The Sun Temple of Konark is a ruined temple dedicated to Lord Surya / Lord Arka, the Sun God, located in the coastal town of Konark in Puri District of Odisha. It is the pinnacle of Kalinga Architecture and the most iconic monument of Odisha. The town and the Kshetra finds mention in the Brahma Purana as Konaditya, Arkha Kshetra, Padma Kshetra and in the Periplus of the Erythrean Sea as Kainapara. It is also associated with the legend of Samba's Curse in Bhagavatam and Mahabharatam. The temple in it's current state, owes it's existence to 'Langula' Narasingha Deba I, the King of Eastern Gangas who ruled from c.1238 CE to c.1264 CE. He succeeded his father, Anantavarman Chodagangadeba, of the Puri Jagannath Temple fame, and was consumed by a burning desire to match his father in construction zeal.

Crocodile consuming Fish themed faucet - Chhaya Devi Shrine

The main temple, completed c.1250 CE, was planned as the Chariot of Lord Surya, complete with Seven Horses and 24 Chakras i.e, spoked wheels, each divided into 8 equal parts representing Praharas i.e, divisions of time. Three separate icons, denoting Early Morning, Afternoon and Evening represent Lord Surya. Chalcolite, Khondalite  and Granite, sourced from the Eastern Ghats made up this 13th Century Monument. Some sources state that the Idol was in a suspended state, not touching the ground, owing to usage of Iron and Magnetism. A large Mandapa called the Nata Mandir, full of fantastic figurines of dancers, singers, mythical creatures, Mithun etc., welcomes us, followed by the main temple. It is a pity that only the Jagmohana i.e, Assembly Hall stands today, and the Deula is completely destroyed. The adjacent buildings attached to the temple like Bhoga Mandir, Chhaya Devi Mandir are also ruined. 

Nata Mandir

The recurring theme of Gaja-Simha is an interesting feature. Of the surviving sculptures, an Elephant trampling a condemned man evokes horror and awe in equal measure. At the shrine of Chhaya Devi, the faucet, shaped like a Crocodile eating a Fish seems so lifelike. As to why the temple was abandoned / ignored - mystery surrounds. Many theories exist viz, Invasion and desecration by Bengal Sultanate and later Mughals (plausible but not the only reason), lack of interest shown by successors, an alleged disagreement between the King and his Minister, proximity to Bay of Bengal causing decay, Konark losing it's prominence to Puri and Bhubaneshwar....the list goes on. The fact remains that, at it's prime, the temple was a source of elegance, envy and efficiency, fondly called as 'The Black Pagoda' by foreign travelers and traders.

Sun Temple, Konark

Today, the monument stands, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting the curious and the devout, a true icon of heritage. Indian Oil Corporation's Arkha Kshetra, an interpretation center offers brilliant insights into the temple and it's hoary past - a matter of pride, pain and passion.

A Chakra @ Sun Temple, Konark

Accessiblity 
Konark forms the Golden Triangle of Odisha / East Indian Tourism circuit, along with Puri (50 Kms) and Bhubaneshwar (60 Kms). It is a Notified Area Council Panchayat, accessible through road from either Puri (via Balukand - Konark Road running parallel to the Bay of Bengal and crossing Chandrabhaga River) or Bhubaneshwar. Tourist busses and Privately operated vehicles operate regularly to and from these three places. Konark also possesses the Chandrabhaga beach, India's and Asia's first Blue Flag certified beach (2018).

 

Us @ Sun Temple, Konark

"The Sun Temple" - on The Sun Temple, Konark

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 13th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali. 

The Holy Island

Srirangam DivyaDesam - View Point

Formed by rivers Kollidam and Cauvery, the island of Srirangam is located in the vicinity of the city of Tiruchirapally. It is noted for two of the iconic temples, belonging to Lord Sri MahaVishnu and Lord Shiva respectively. 

Golden Vimana of Srirangam DivyaDesam

Sri Ranganatha Swamy Divyadesam 
As per Tamil Vaishnava Sampradaya, Sri Ranganatha Swamy Temple of Srirangam is regarded as Veetu i.e, Home of Lord Sri MahaVishnu, the first and foremost amongst the 108 Divya Desams.  It is one of the largest functioning Hindu Temples of the World, possessing the tallest Gopuram in Asia (The South Tower / Rajagopuram) and is the seat of Tenkalai (literally Southern) branch of Sri Vaishnavism. Historically, all major dynasties of the region have had their distinct imprint on the temple, including Chozhas, Pandyas, Rayas of Vijayanagar et al. The celebrated Bhakti Saint Ramanujacharya, the doyen of Vishistaadwaita is associated with the temple, and his mortal remains are located here. A very large Garuda points to the direction of the Lord, and the idol of Lord Sri Ranganatha, located within seven precincts, is in typical Sesha Sayana form. An interesting feature of the temple is a view point, with a bird's eye view of all 21 Gopurams and Vimanans.

 

Southern Tower / Rajagopuram of Srirangam DivyaDesam

Sri Jambukeswarar Temple, Jambukeswaram / Tiruvanaikoil  
Another iconic temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva as Sri Jambukeswara, a Pancha Bhootha Sthalam / Maha Bhootha Sthalam representing the element of Water i.e, Jalam. It is also a venerated Padal Petra Sthalam. As per legend, Goddess Parvati, as Goddess Akhilandeswari Devi performed a penance to Lord Shiva as a repentance. This large temple is a Padal Petra Sthalam as well, and is located just 2 kms away from Sri Ranganatha Swamy Divyadesam.

Mural Painting @ Akhilandesari Devi Shrine, Jambukeswaram / Tiruvanaikoil

Accessiblity 
Srirangam has a small railway station, but the nearest Railway Junction is Tiruchirapally Junction, which is well connected to other cities of Tamil Nadu. Srirangam island is around 10 kms away from the Junction Station, and is easily accessible by Privately operated City busses plying through the city of Tiruchirapally connecting it's Central Bus Station with Junction Railway Station, Our Lady of Lourdes Church,  Chatram Bus Stand (Local Bus Stand), Tiruvanaikoil and Srirangam. Busses and Taxi services are also available in Tiruchirapally, which is now popularly referred as Trichy.  

 

@ Jambukeswaram / Tiruvanaikoil

Impressively, but not entirely surprisingly, Srirangam continued to flourish as a holy island, even in the most troublesome times, and would continue to do so in future. 

"The Holy Island" - on Srirangam

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 13th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.

Tribute to Shri Ratan Tata

Shri Ratan N.Tata . Picture Credits : Wikipedia

 (Poetic Tribute to Shri Ratan  N Tata, who passed away on 9 October, 2024 and whose name requires no introduction.)

The nervous nineties shuffled a nation's economic coil, 
whither do we go? What fortune binds ?
That household brand seemed to be in a boil,
troubled times called for tougher minds.

In these times of shorter attention and fickle fame, 
where man dances to the tune of color paper,
and where inequality is cherished to the core,
one man stood tall, simple and honest and he did matter. 

A rebranding done, all challenges accepted, 
a life well lived, warming many hearts. 
A Gentle Giant passed away in the dead of the night, 
An era ends, a noble soul departs. 

"Tribute to Shri Ratan Tata" - on Shri Ratan N.Tata

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Thursday, 10th of October, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.

The Taj Mahal

March 2023 CE (Chaitra 1945 SE) - Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh

"

An idyllic walk down the battered roads of Agra, by and by,

led to the Mausoleum of the Emperor's ladylove. 

And lo, this glittering monument of beauty,

more a symbol of skill and power, than love.

Pages of praise, poignant and poetic mark this Mahal's story, 

where medieval engineering married opulent endeavor.

The Mughals left, so did the British, with no sorry,

Yet this timeless grandeur flourishes with matchless measure.

The outward pointed Minars and the Bulbous Ivory White Double Dome,

the Pristine Pietra Dura  and the Joyful Jali work;

Here, the nightmares of reality are toyed by dreams that roam,

and sheer marvel and appreciation make their mark.

 

On the banks of Yamuna, refusing to be ravaged by the tests of time;

stands this Wonder of the World, in all glory and prime.  

 "    

"The Taj Mahal" - on Taj Mahal, Agra

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 08th of September, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.

Lepakshi

The iconic Naga Linga of Lepakshi

Lepakshi, Andhra Pradesh - December, 2022.

In the annals of South Indian History, especially so for Andhra Pradesh, the era of Vijayanagara Samrajyamu (c.1336 - 1670s CE) holds a special place. Under the fiercely strategic oriented and Independent minded Devarayas of Vijayanagara, great patrons of art and architecture, a distinct culture developed, which is still found in Rayalaseema region of Andhra Pradesh. Lepakshi is associated with Ramayana, and the name of the town is derived from the cry of Lord Shri Rama comforting a dying Jatayu (mythical bird) in Telugu (లే, పక్షి literally - get up, bird). The temple of Lepakshi, dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra, a manifestation of Lord Shiva speaks volumes about the Vijayanagara legacy.   

Lord Vinayaka

Sri Veerabhadra Swamy Temple of Lepakshi is located in Hindupur mandal of Ananntapuramu district. It was built by governors Virupanna and Veeranna Nayaka, under the patronage of Vijayanagara Emperor, Achyuta Raya in c.1530 / 1540 CE. The temple is a classic example of Vijayanagara architecture. It is known for it's carvings and mural paintings. Paintings depicting themes of Parvati - Siva Kalayana, Keeratarjuneeyam, Saiva worship practices are beautiful and survive to this day. In fact, the fresco of the ceiling possessing the paintings of manifestations of Lord Shiva (Ardhanadeeswarudu, Chandesanugrahamurthi, Dakshianmurthy, Lingodhbhavamurthy etc) is said to the largest in Asia. 

A Painting

A Painting

Another interesting feature is the so called Hanging Pillar, a testament to the marvels of the then sculptors and builders, also a relic of overenthusiastic British officers! The pillar stands suspended and slightly dislodged, without touching the ground. In the inner compound, there is the famous iconic Naga Linga -  Shiva Linga protected by a huge 7 headed Serpent - a mastery in Stone. A huge Nandi, facing the Naga Linga is located adjacent to the temple. This bull is endowed with ornaments - all carved in stone. There is a Jatayu themed park nearby. 

Lepakshi has so much potential for tourism and being adjacent to Bengaluru, attracts huge crowds in weekend. Lepakshi deserves much more.      

Lepakshi Nandi

                      

 "Lepakshi" - on Lepakshi

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Tuesday, 06th of August, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.

The Land of Singing Waves

Me @ Tharangambadi Beach

Tharangambadi (formerly Tranquebar), Tamil Nadu - September 2023

In Mayiladuthurai district of Tamil Nadu lies the sleepy coastal town of Tharangambadi (literally, 'The Land of Singing Waves'), that was once Danish East India Company's crowning glory in the Colonial Era (c.1620 -1777 CE). The Imperial Kingdom of Denmark-Norway was also one of the lesser-known protagonists of the 'White man's burden'. However their possessions in India mattered little when compared with the ambitions of the British or the French. 

South Asia's first Protestant Church (?) - Tharangambadi

Fort Dansborg - one of the largest Danish Forts ever built

Fort Dansborg, one of the largest Danish forts ever built is the most recognizable monument of Tharangambadi, her long unutilized little cannons seemingly perched towards the sea, as if thwarting  any competitive economic rival emerging from the Bay of Bengal. Much before the advent of the Danes, the Pandyas and later, Thanjavur Nayaka Kings controlled Tharangambadi. The old Saiva temple (Masilamaninathar) stands to this day, despite the ravages of the infamous 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami. The serene spot could have captivated the Danes, who indulged in business as well as proselytization, eventually 'purchasing' this piece of land from the Nayaka Kings, just like the British in Chennai. Unlike Chennai, Tharangambadi remains a foot note in the pages of history and retains an idyllic charm befitting a benign rural setting. The town also possesses South Asia's first Protestant Church (sic), a Danish-Indian Cultural Centre, and a museum. A walk down this town, soaking in the evening Sun, looking at the old colonial buildings, with the breeze from the Bay, offered a serene refreshment from the routine of the ordinary days - a much-needed break. 

Masilamaninathar Temple (Saiva) - Pandyas - Tharangambadi

Me @ Fort Dansborg

Tharangambadi, formerly Tranquebar, the little Denmark of India, the Indian darling of the Danes in 17th Century, remains 'The Land of the Singing Waves'. 

TownsGate - Tharangambadi

   

Main Street, Tharangambadi

The Land of Singing Waves - on Tharangambadi/Tranquebar

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Saturday, 03rd of August, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.