The Land of Singing Waves

Me @ Tharangambadi Beach

Tharangambadi (formerly Tranquebar), Tamil Nadu - September 2023

In Mayiladuthurai district of Tamil Nadu lies the sleepy coastal town of Tharangambadi (literally, 'The Land of Singing Waves'), that was once Danish East India Company's crowning glory in the Colonial Era (c.1620 -1777 CE). The Imperial Kingdom of Denmark-Norway was also one of the lesser-known protagonists of the 'White man's burden'. However their possessions in India mattered little when compared with the ambitions of the British or the French. 

South Asia's first Protestant Church (?) - Tharangambadi

Fort Dansborg - one of the largest Danish Forts ever built

Fort Dansborg, one of the largest Danish forts ever built is the most recognizable monument of Tharangambadi, her long unutilized little cannons seemingly perched towards the sea, as if thwarting  any competitive economic rival emerging from the Bay of Bengal. Much before the advent of the Danes, the Pandyas and later, Thanjavur Nayaka Kings controlled Tharangambadi. The old Saiva temple (Masilamaninathar) stands to this day, despite the ravages of the infamous 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami. The serene spot could have captivated the Danes, who indulged in business as well as proselytization, eventually 'purchasing' this piece of land from the Nayaka Kings, just like the British in Chennai. Unlike Chennai, Tharangambadi remains a foot note in the pages of history and retains an idyllic charm befitting a benign rural setting. The town also possesses South Asia's first Protestant Church (sic), a Danish-Indian Cultural Centre, and a museum. A walk down this town, soaking in the evening Sun, looking at the old colonial buildings, with the breeze from the Bay, offered a serene refreshment from the routine of the ordinary days - a much-needed break. 

Masilamaninathar Temple (Saiva) - Pandyas - Tharangambadi

Me @ Fort Dansborg

Tharangambadi, formerly Tranquebar, the little Denmark of India, the Indian darling of the Danes in 17th Century, remains 'The Land of the Singing Waves'. 

TownsGate - Tharangambadi

   

Main Street, Tharangambadi

The Land of Singing Waves - on Tharangambadi/Tranquebar

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Saturday, 03rd of August, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali.

Akbar's Abandoned Project

@ Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

Fathepur Sikri, Uttar Pradesh. - March, 2023
Fathepur Sikri is a city in Uttar Pradesh, located 43 kms away from Agra housing Mughal Monuments like imperial palace, Buland Darwaza, Sheikh Salim Chisti's Tomb, Jama Masjid, Pancha Mahal etc. Prima Facie, the dusty, dotted road connecting Agra with Jaipur offers a deceptively simple view of Fathepur Sikri - the brief capital of Great Mughals in 16th Century, a pet project of Akbar I (r.c.1556-1605 CE), and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Infact, the city was inhabited even before the advent of Mughals, right from the times of Sungas.

View from Buland Darwaza

@ Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

The red sandstone ramparts are dominated by Buland Darwaza, world's tallest gateway. Commissioned by Akbar after his conquest of Gujarat in c.1570s CE, standing at 55 meters / 177 feet, the gateway leads to the Jama Masjid of Fatehpur Sikri. The white marble encased tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti is a popular Dargah that attracts the devout. One must be wary of the wayside hawkers and self styled guides who seem to be omnipresent. The site offers great insights into Muhgal era lifestyle. Of particular interest is the five storied Pancha Mahal, with a gradual size decrease in each tier, an amalgamation of Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic styles. 

Treasury, Fatehpur Sikri

@ Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti

The Shabistan-I-Iqbal (wrongly called as Jodha Bhai's Palace), Turkish Queen's House, Treasury, Elephant Stables are other important places of interest. The Diwan-i-Aam (People's Assembly) as well as the lavish Diwan-i-Khaas, the quintessential Mughal buildings are also constructed.  It appears that the city was conceived in a grandiose way. One of the local guides pointed out a simple yet elegant Mughal creativity - air ducts embedded into walls that provide a breadth of fresh and cool air even in the heights of summer!  

Elephant Stables, Fathepur Sikri

Fathepur Sikri, at it's zenith matched Delhi and Agra and was the grandest Mughal city, citadel of Great Mughals under Akbar. However, the city was abandoned later on, during Akbar's time itself. In the words of British traveler William Finch, "it is all ruinate, lying like a waste desert" (c.1610s CE). The reason for the abandonment was simple - water! The lack of planning and execution regarding water supply spelt doom and caused disinterest in Akbar, making Fatehpur Sikri his most ambitious abandoned project. 

Pancha Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri

One would fervently hope that the planners of the modern smart cities are aware of Fathepur Sikri!

Akbar's Abandoned Project - on Fathepur Sikri

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu

Sunday, 28th of July, 2024

Maheeth Veluvali. 

Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

@ Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

The Descent of the Ganges, also called Arjuna's Penance, a large open air rock relief, is just a stone's throw away from the Bus station of Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram in Chengalpattu District of Tamil Nadu. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram. This Great relief is a work of art. Commissioned by the Pallava King 'Mahamalla' NarasimhaVarman I in mid 7th Century CE after his defeat of Chalukya Pulakesin II, carved by Mandhatar, a renowned sculptor, the relief is the pinnacle specimen of the then workmanship, skill and human endeavor. Measuring 96*43 feet (29*13 m), and spread over two adjacent monolithic rock boulders, it is the largest open air bas relief in India. 

@ Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

What does the relief mean? There are two different interpretations to this -

Firstly, it depicts the legendary Descent of the Ganges, wherein ascetic Sage Bhagiratha pleases Lord Shiva to bring forth waters of river Ganges onto the Earth. This feat is watched by Celestial beings of heaven, all sorts of wild animals. Infact, the carving of life size Elephants along with calves in terrific. A lengthy opening between the two boulders contains Naga images, representing the river in a crafty and creative way. Incidentally, this is the most accepted and popular interpretation. 

Another interesting interpretation is based on the celebrated Epic Mahabharata and Bharavi's Sanskrit treatise, Kiratarjuneeyam. As per this, the ascetic in question is not Bhagiratha, but Arjuna, who went on to attain the Divine Weapon, Pasupata-Astra from Lord Shiva. 

In the bottom central portion of the relief, a Cat tries to copy the ascetic's penance to lure any nearby rodents - a humorous Panchatantra tale that warns people to be wary of false ascetics. Further, Sage Agastya is also shown along with disciples, near a small shrine. This is another creative allegory - Agastya is regarded as destroyer of the demon Vatapi in Hindu lore, an attribute with which 'Mahamalla' NarasimhaVarman I would associate, as Vatapigaikondan i.e, Conqueror of Vatapi (Vatapi was also called Badami - the capital of Chalukyas).  

Whatever be the interpretation, Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance continues to capture the attention and admiration of the masses and scholars alike!

   "Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance" 

   16 Saladi Jamindar Street,

   Palakollu. 

   Tuesday, 16th of July, 2024.

   Maheeth Veluvali

Sweet Victory

(On Saturday, 29th of June, 2024 - India beat Republic South Africa to clinch ICC Cricket World Cup T20 2024, a major cricket title after an agonizing near misses of eleven years. This is a poetic tribute to the men in blue.)

"

In Barbados, an old tale seemed to play out, 

a familiar eerie script, a Deja vu of sorts. 

The hopes and dreams seldom in doubt,

but aren't twisted tales a part of sports?

The West held promise unlike the travails of past, 

what's that good in the game of cricket, many would feel?

But the nation of passionate millions waiting for a blast,

got everything when Rohit Sharma's men sealed the deal.

Fandoms passed down from generations, 

a cult that survives and thrives. 

One game of bat and ball with twenty two players

a feverish craze beyond mere words. 

Let the negativity and naysayers wait for all that matters, 

And hear, hear; - Indian Cricket, another glorious chapter is added.  

What a game it was, and catches do win matches,

a gloomy decade gone, let us bask in glory, with our boys' backs' patted.

"

"Sweet Victory" (Poem / Poetic Tribute) 

                                                                                                                            16 Saladi Jamindar Street,

Palakollu. 

Monday, 1st of July, 2024.

Maheeth Veluvali

Better late than never

In a country that's obsessed with hero worship, Sri Pamulaparti Venkata Narasimha Rao Ji sticks out like a sore thumb. In an era of ever receeding attention spans, the legacy of the ninth Prime minister of India generates very little excitement, prima facie. Yet, today's announcement that the diminutive Telugu gentleman is going to be awarded India's highest honor 'Bharat Ratna', bereft of all the alleged political machinations or calculations is a perfect example of the adage 'Better late than never.'

Shorn of the knee jerk reactions and deification of lesser mortals enriched by emotions, time and history often offer us a dispassionate view of places, things and personalities. The toughest of Pre Independent India's provinces, Nizam's Hyderabad forged the ambitions (or as he himself used to say, the lack of it) of a future politician. - a boy torn between the dream of a tyranny free province in a violent setting and the vision of an Independent country, moved by peaceful protests. A long and illustrious career in politics followed, starting with an uncharacteristic defeat in 1951-52. A polyglot, an erudite scholar and an eternal student, the pragmatic politician in him was never bogged down by the melancholy offered by intellect. At the heyday of the left leaning intellectuals, or at the dawn of the right wing pundits, he remained unaligned with neither, translating Kavi Samrat Viswanatha Satyanarayana's magnum opus 'Veyi Padagalu', in Hindi as 'Sahasra Phan' while at the same time championing India's non-alignment in global fora.

The scholar was about to turn a saint in 1991 when twin disasters struck. A lack of perspective on foreign affairs that threatened the very existence of Dr. B.R.Ambedkar's dream of India's indestructible Union played out while a decades long macro-economic misadventure reared its ugly forehead. Cometh the man, cometh the hour. Alas, finance was the only portfolio on which he had no prior proper expertise. Yet, he was forced to become one. From being forced to step down as Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh at the behest of the so called 'high command' in 1973 to braving three no confidence motions and steering the giant Indian Economy from troubled waters, it was a full circle. 

In 1991, there were hesitations and hiccups. By the time he stepped down, Punjab was stable, the Elephant of the Indian economy started its ascent, India was no longer shunned by the US, archrival Pakistan was bested out of the blue at Geneva. Yes, there were other issues, and he was never a sorcerer. But the reformer who deserved respect like Deng Xiaoping was soon consigned to the foot notes of history, or at least it seemed for a while.....

Better late than never! 

"Better late than never" - Tribute to Shri P.V.Narasimha Rao Ji on 'Bharat Ratna'

Friday, 9th of February, 2024

Maheeth Veluvali (Sonu), 

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 

Palakollu. 

Tribute to Swaminathan

In the winter of 2006, when I was a X class student participating and attending the 93rd National Children's Science Congress at Acharya NG Ranga Agricultural University in Hyderabad, Dr Mankombu Sambasivan Swaminathan's well deserved fame was ubiquitous. The so called 'Swaminthan effect' displayed at an exhibition, where two rice bags were placed next to each other, one small and crumpled, belonging to pre green revolution era of the 60s and the next one large and full, symbolizing the post green revolution success was a raging hit. The great agricultural ecologist was, however, always humble, unmindful of the fact that his was the most popular scientific name, next only to the then Hon'ble President Kalam at the event. 

Dr Swaminathan's tale is a synonym of humanitarian concern meeting scientific genius, tenacity matching humility. After his birth in Kumbakonam, and a successful but initially zig zag academic career that was studded with clearing the Civils exam, the Bengal Famine of 1943 has had a terrific impact on the young Swaminathan and drew him towards agriculture and farmer welfare. For the UNESCO fellowship scholar, that was just the beginning. Despite all the talk of India being a predominantly agricultural country, the late 50s and 60s saw a spate of ill-timed macro-economic decisions, complete lack of support for agriculture and a series of famines and droughts. Agriculture was always a gamble on the monsoon. It appeared that Pandit Nehruji's thrust on scientific temper, alas was only meant for rapid industrialization. India's 'Ship to Mouth' existence was a terrible psychological blow, as the nation was forced to rely on wheat supplies from USA. Enter Swaminathan...

Modelled after the high yielding verities (HYV) championed by Norman Borlaugh, backed by political will, Dr Swaminathan ushered in an agricultural revolution, and is rightly regarded as the father of India's green revolution. With a targeted focus on mechanization, genetic variations, and never ignoring farmer welfare, this revolution was a success as by early 70s, India became self-sufficient in food grain production. The legend was established. But, for a man regarded as the father of economic ecology by UNEP, Dr Swaminathan is someone who is not blinded by success. He propounded an evergreen revolution, and although post green revolution, agriculture was once again ignored, the sector came back with a vengeance as 'Prime moving force' of Indian economy during the X five-year plan (2002). Heading the National Commission on Farmers (2004), Dr Swaminathan's observations and recommendations are timely, much needed and effective if implemented. The PM Kisan scheme has had its intellectual Genysis there. 

In his passing away, we lost a beloved humanitarian who prioritized farmer welfare, a scientist unwavering in spirit, the architect of India's greatest revolution. It is fitting and proper that we remember and honor Dr Swaminathan.

Maheeth Veluvali,
16 Saladi Jamindar Street,
Palakollu

Conquest of Chandra's South Pole

(At 06:04 PM, 23rd of August 2023, India became the fourth nation to soft land robotic lander on the moon, first to do so on South Pole. The poem is a tribute to Chandrayan-3 mission of ISRO)

That dreaded deja vu of 'fifteen minutes of terror'
played havoc on everyone's mind.
Four years ago, that countdown held a mirror,
to the calamity that's handed down. 

The moon was distant, the media was cruel, 
the maverick prophets of doom triumphed.
The Gods smiled this time, with fate's duel,
human endeavor and scientific temper combined. 

Slowly and steadily, billions watched, 
with fervent hope and bated breath;
amidst raging worse news, our hearts touched,
an event memorable even in death.

Who knows, some future dreamers may take birth today, 
in non-descript rural school buildings without fuss. 
For now, let's Hoist the tricolor, praise the brilliant minds and bask in pride,
for The Lord Soma himself, his mysteries intact, hosted us.

Maheeth Veluvali,                           

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 

Palakollu.

Patan & Modhera

Rani Ka Vav, Patan

Patan

Dusty roads dotted by occasional camels harking back to the halcyon days of Rajputana, shimmering heat beating down mercilessly on the heritage structures all around….Patan offered me a glory sight that day.

 

Located in North Gujarat, Patan was the ancient capital of Gujarat region and had been continuously inhabited since times immemorial. The city in it’s current form, formerly known as Anhilwahara was first attributed to Vanraj Chavda in c.8^th Century CE. For the next few centuries, it was the capital of Chavdas, Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas and Vaghelas. Patan is famous for the Patola Ikat sarees, a rich, ornate, artistic and crafty tradition that is now the preserve of only one family. 

 

skull club weilding apsara

Lip Gloss or Lip Stick ?

Varaha Avatar

 

The most interesting monument of the city is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Rani Ka Vav also known as Nani Ka Vav / The Queen's step-well along with the adjacent Sahasraling Talav. Sourcing water was always a difficult prospect in the semi arid parched lands of North Gujarat. Step-wells, commissioned at selected places to tap into deep aquifers are a popular choice. Rani Ka Vav is the best example. It is attributed to Queen Consort Rani Udayamati, former princess of Saurashtra, in memory of her beloved husband, Bhima I of Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas of Anhilwara in c.11th Century CE. The exquisite carvings and sculptures, rich pillar work, deceptively simple steps all add to the beauty and grandeur of this monument, a symbol of love and resolve of the benevolent queen. Many historical works like those of Jain monks viz Merutunga vouch to this impressive and intricate step-well.

 

Parashurama Avatar

Vamana Avatar

An Apsara

 

Modhera

Located around 36 kms from Patan en route the famous Becharji shrine, and around 30 kms away from the district headquarters of Mahesana, Modhera was recently declared as India's first complete round the clock (24*7) solar electrified village. It is famous for the ruins of the impressive Sun Temple, attributed to Maru-Gurjara Architecture, and associated with Bhima I of Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas of Anhilwara (c.11th Century CE). 

 

Surya Kund, Modhera

Modhera Sun Temple

Modhera Sun Temple

 

The Sun temple has rich, ornate carvings depicting themes from Ramayana and Mahabharata. The large tank, Surya Kund is impressive feature. The Gudha-Mandpa is a terrific structure. The invading forces of Sultan Sebuktigin Mahmud of Ghazan clashed with the Solanki Rajputs near the temple, due to which the temple was partially destroyed. However, the temple lost it's prominence after the raids of Khiljis in c.13th Century CE.   

 

Surya / Arka, Modhera

Pillar work, Modhera

 

I was overwhelmed and overjoyed for having visited these historic places of heritage. 

 

Me at Rani Ka Vav, Patan

  

 

Maheeth Veluvali, 

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu, 

October 2022

Gorbachev

Mikhail S Gorbachev

"

The sick sickle and hammer suffered since the sixties,

when the war that wasn't hot was too hot to handle,

there was beauty in struggle, like autumn's lillies,

brought up in the red banner of Moscow's granduer.

 

A clash of ideologies set after a gory war, 

brought no glory to the common man,

swollen pride mattered little with prices they can't bear,

and one man understood the rut, a reformer in a dying clan.

The warriors of west, those champions of democracy mocked 'Trust but verify',

with the ashes of the second world consigned in Afghanistan's battlefields.

But, one little Gorbi made one last stand, 

hated by left right and centre, still not corrupted by power. 

Glasnost and Perestroika, the comrade general secretary ensured in letter and spirit, 

unmindful of history's partisan junior judges, unaware of the betrayals by one and all,

Tried till the last to hold the republics, but never forcing the winds of change, 

'This is how it ends, Sasha' said the maligned Gorbi and quietly slipped out with no applause.

"

 

Mikhail S Gorbachev passed away in August 2022. He was the president of the Sovier Union from 1985 to 1991, whose well meant reforms of Glasnost and Perestroika could not save the Union from disintegration. Although there is divided opinion on his legacy, one should accept his role in the end of cold war and his unappreciated efforts to save the people reeling under an in-efficient socio-enconmic system, his untiring efforts to unite the union till the last, and his stoic refusal to quell rebellions in the republic. 

Tuesday, 27th of September, 2022

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 

Palakollu

In the footsteps of Sri-Prtithvi Vallabhas....

Me at the Sangameswara Temple

 

What is the place ? 

Alampur of Jogulamba Gadwal district, Telangana State is a famous town that houses the temples of Goddess Jogulamba Shakti Peetha, Nava Brahma Temple complex, Sangameswara Temple and Papanasa temple group. Part of the Raichur Doab and regarded as the Western Gateway of Srisailam, Alampur is in existence at-least from the times of Chalukyas of Badami, if not even before (c.6th/7th Centuries CE). Resembling the world heritage site of group of monuments at Pattadakal, the temples here, mostly dedicated to Lord Shiva and Shakti worship, are a classic example of Vesara Architecture.

 

Amorous Couple - Swarga Brahma Temple

 

How I reached ?

Alampur is well connected by buses from Gadwal, Kurnool (27 Kms away, separated by River Tungabhadra). There is a railway station too. I visited Alampur from Kurnool.

 

Lingodbhavamurthi - Swarga Brahma Temple

 

Where to stay and how to commute ?

There are few lodges available near the Bus-station. All major temples are at walk-able distance from the bus-station.

 

Swarga Brahama Temple

 

Lord Valli sameta Devasena - Alampur Musem

 

What's there to see ?

Most of the temples are under the aegis of the Archeological Survey of India. The famous temples and monuments include - 

1. Shakti Peetha Jogulamba Temple - The most famous and important temple of the place, regarded as one of the Eighteen major Shakti peethas. The temple's glory was eclipsed during the Bahman rule of Raichur Doad in late 14th Century, it's current location was rebuilt in 2005.

2. Nava Brahma Temple complex - A cluster of nine Saiva temples located adjacent to the Shakti Peetha, this compex is a national protected monument. Some fine carvings / sculptures are present on the walls of these temples. With distinct amalak, striking elements of Vesara architecture, it was thrilling to explore these historical temples, once associated with the halcyon days of Pulakesin II, Vikramaditya I etc,. Among these, only the Bala Brahmeswara Swamy temple of Lord Shiva is a temple in religious sense - the others are monuments.

   

Cross section of Nava Brahma Temples

A part of Navabrahma Temples

 

3.Kudala Sangameswara Swamy Temple - This iconic and brilliant masterpiece attributed to late 7th Century CE was relocated from it's earlier place to the current site at Alampur owing to the construction of Srisailam Dam on River Krishna further south. The temple has some exquisite carvings like Padmapani Boddhisatva, Lord Shiva as Destroyer, River Godesses etc, 

4. Papanasa Group of Temples - Located a bit far from the rest, these simple, monotonous temples hark back to an early era. The carving of Amitabha Buddha on a ceiling is striking, along with few examples of pillar works. 

5. Archeological Museum, Alampur - This little museum houses some terrific artifacts in good shape, like statues, inscriptions etc,.

Pillar art depicting Ksheer Sagara Mathanam - Papanasa Temple

River Goddess at Sangameswara Temple

 

I felt really blessed and happy for having visited this historical temple town, a melting pot of cultures, a key geo-strategic place, the land of the Sri-Prithvi Vallabhas of Deccan viz, Chalukyas of Badami who left their artistic and militaristic footprints on the sands of time....

 

Me at the Jogulamba Temple Gopuram

 

 

 

Visited on Sunday, 26th of June, 2022

Maheeth Veluvali.