My travels is all about... My views, thoughts and experiences on/about/at/with random places of interest, persons, things, events, issues etc,. I am an eternal student with a restless mind and a tumultuous heart!

Wednesday, August 23, 2023

Conquest of Chandra's South Pole

(At 06:04 PM, 23rd of August 2023, India became the fourth nation to soft land robotic lander on the moon, first to do so on South Pole. The poem is a tribute to Chandrayan-3 mission of ISRO)

That dreaded deja vu of 'fifteen minutes of terror'
played havoc on everyone's mind.
Four years ago, that countdown held a mirror,
to the calamity that's handed down. 

The moon was distant, the media was cruel, 
the maverick prophets of doom triumphed.
The Gods smiled this time, with fate's duel,
human endeavor and scientific temper combined. 

Slowly and steadily, billions watched, 
with fervent hope and bated breath;
amidst raging worse news, our hearts touched,
an event memorable even in death.

Who knows, some future dreamers may take birth today, 
in non-descript rural school buildings without fuss. 
For now, let's Hoist the tricolor, praise the brilliant minds and bask in pride,
for The Lord Soma himself, his mysteries intact, hosted us.


Maheeth Veluvali,                           
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 
Palakollu.

Wednesday, October 12, 2022

Patan & Modhera


Rani Ka Vav, Patan

Patan

Dusty roads dotted by occasional camels harking back to the halcyon days of Rajputana, shimmering heat beating down mercilessly on the heritage structures all around….Patan offered me a glory sight that day.
 
Located in North Gujarat, Patan was the ancient capital of Gujarat region and had been continuously inhabited since times immemorial. The city in it’s current form, formerly known as Anhilwahara was first attributed to Vanraj Chavda in c.8th Century CE. For the next few centuries, it was the capital of Chavdas, Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas and Vaghelas. Patan is famous for the Patola Ikat sarees, a rich, ornate, artistic and crafty tradition that is now the preserve of only one family. 
 
skull club weilding apsara

Lip Gloss or Lip Stick ?

Varaha Avatar
 
The most interesting monument of the city is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Rani Ka Vav also known as Nani Ka Vav / The Queen's step-well along with the adjacent Sahasraling Talav. Sourcing water was always a difficult prospect in the semi arid parched lands of North Gujarat. Step-wells, commissioned at selected places to tap into deep aquifers are a popular choice. Rani Ka Vav is the best example. It is attributed to Queen Consort Rani Udayamati, former princess of Saurashtra, in memory of her beloved husband, Bhima I of Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas of Anhilwara in c.11th Century CE. The exquisite carvings and sculptures, rich pillar work, deceptively simple steps all add to the beauty and grandeur of this monument, a symbol of love and resolve of the benevolent queen. Many historical works like those of Jain monks viz Merutunga vouch to this impressive and intricate step-well.
 
Parashurama Avatar

Vamana Avatar

An Apsara

 

Modhera

Located around 36 kms from Patan en route the famous Becharji shrine, and around 30 kms away from the district headquarters of Mahesana, Modhera was recently declared as India's first complete round the clock (24*7) solar electrified village. It is famous for the ruins of the impressive Sun Temple, attributed to Maru-Gurjara Architecture, and associated with Bhima I of Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas of Anhilwara (c.11th Century CE). 
 
Surya Kund, Modhera

Modhera Sun Temple

Modhera Sun Temple
 
The Sun temple has rich, ornate carvings depicting themes from Ramayana and Mahabharata. The large tank, Surya Kund is impressive feature. The Gudha-Mandpa is a terrific structure. The invading forces of Sultan Sebuktigin Mahmud of Ghazan clashed with the Solanki Rajputs near the temple, due to which the temple was partially destroyed. However, the temple lost it's prominence after the raids of Khiljis in c.13th Century CE.   
 
Surya / Arka, Modhera

Pillar work, Modhera

 
I was overwhelmed and overjoyed for having visited these historic places of heritage. 
 
Me at Rani Ka Vav, Patan

  
 
Maheeth Veluvali, 
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu, 
October 2022

Tuesday, September 27, 2022

Gorbachev

Mikhail S Gorbachev
"
The sick sickle and hammer suffered since the sixties,
when the war that wasn't hot was too hot to handle,
there was beauty in struggle, like autumn's lillies,
brought up in the red banner of Moscow's granduer.
 
A clash of ideologies set after a gory war, 
brought no glory to the common man,
swollen pride mattered little with prices they can't bear,
and one man understood the rut, a reformer in a dying clan.

The warriors of west, those champions of democracy mocked 'Trust but verify',
with the ashes of the second world consigned in Afghanistan's battlefields.
But, one little Gorbi made one last stand, 
hated by left right and centre, still not corrupted by power. 

Glasnost and Perestroika, the comrade general secretary ensured in letter and spirit, 
unmindful of history's partisan junior judges, unaware of the betrayals by one and all,
Tried till the last to hold the republics, but never forcing the winds of change, 
'This is how it ends, Sasha' said the maligned Gorbi and quietly slipped out with no applause.
"

 
Mikhail S Gorbachev passed away in August 2022. He was the president of the Sovier Union from 1985 to 1991, whose well meant reforms of Glasnost and Perestroika could not save the Union from disintegration. Although there is divided opinion on his legacy, one should accept his role in the end of cold war and his unappreciated efforts to save the people reeling under an in-efficient socio-enconmic system, his untiring efforts to unite the union till the last, and his stoic refusal to quell rebellions in the republic. 

Tuesday, 27th of September, 2022
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 
Palakollu

Tuesday, June 28, 2022

In the footsteps of Sri-Prtithvi Vallabhas....

Me at the Sangameswara Temple
 
What is the place ? 
Alampur of Jogulamba Gadwal district, Telangana State is a famous town that houses the temples of Goddess Jogulamba Shakti Peetha, Nava Brahma Temple complex, Sangameswara Temple and Papanasa temple group. Part of the Raichur Doab and regarded as the Western Gateway of Srisailam, Alampur is in existence at-least from the times of Chalukyas of Badami, if not even before (c.6th/7th Centuries CE). Resembling the world heritage site of group of monuments at Pattadakal, the temples here, mostly dedicated to Lord Shiva and Shakti worship, are a classic example of Vesara Architecture.

 

Amorous Couple - Swarga Brahma Temple
 
How I reached ?
Alampur is well connected by buses from Gadwal, Kurnool (27 Kms away, separated by River Tungabhadra). There is a railway station too. I visited Alampur from Kurnool.
 
Lingodbhavamurthi - Swarga Brahma Temple
 
Where to stay and how to commute ?
There are few lodges available near the Bus-station. All major temples are at walk-able distance from the bus-station.
 
Swarga Brahama Temple
 
Lord Valli sameta Devasena - Alampur Musem
 
What's there to see ?
Most of the temples are under the aegis of the Archeological Survey of India. The famous temples and monuments include - 
1. Shakti Peetha Jogulamba Temple - The most famous and important temple of the place, regarded as one of the Eighteen major Shakti peethas. The temple's glory was eclipsed during the Bahman rule of Raichur Doad in late 14th Century, it's current location was rebuilt in 2005.
2. Nava Brahma Temple complex - A cluster of nine Saiva temples located adjacent to the Shakti Peetha, this compex is a national protected monument. Some fine carvings / sculptures are present on the walls of these temples. With distinct amalak, striking elements of Vesara architecture, it was thrilling to explore these historical temples, once associated with the halcyon days of Pulakesin II, Vikramaditya I etc,. Among these, only the Bala Brahmeswara Swamy temple of Lord Shiva is a temple in religious sense - the others are monuments.
   
Cross section of Nava Brahma Temples

A part of Navabrahma Temples
 
3.Kudala Sangameswara Swamy Temple - This iconic and brilliant masterpiece attributed to late 7th Century CE was relocated from it's earlier place to the current site at Alampur owing to the construction of Srisailam Dam on River Krishna further south. The temple has some exquisite carvings like Padmapani Boddhisatva, Lord Shiva as Destroyer, River Godesses etc, 
4. Papanasa Group of Temples - Located a bit far from the rest, these simple, monotonous temples hark back to an early era. The carving of Amitabha Buddha on a ceiling is striking, along with few examples of pillar works. 
5. Archeological Museum, Alampur - This little museum houses some terrific artifacts in good shape, like statues, inscriptions etc,.

Pillar art depicting Ksheer Sagara Mathanam - Papanasa Temple
River Goddess at Sangameswara Temple
 
I felt really blessed and happy for having visited this historical temple town, a melting pot of cultures, a key geo-strategic place, the land of the Sri-Prithvi Vallabhas of Deccan viz, Chalukyas of Badami who left their artistic and militaristic footprints on the sands of time....
 
Me at the Jogulamba Temple Gopuram
Me at the Jogulamba Temple Gopuram
 
 
 
Visited on Sunday, 26th of June, 2022
Maheeth Veluvali.

Tuesday, March 8, 2022

She

From the ages of the distant past, 
silently she rose and made her way. 
Words like daggers and actions like thorns 
just made the champion in her determined to stay!
 
Battles for an equal pie and a right to be acknowledged,
 - struggles that were fought within and without.
She wasn't a sacrificial lamb, rather a Tiger that pounced,
she's mundane and divine, obvious yet a mystery, without doubt. 
 
Emperors, Poets and singers rave about her beauty,
But was an honest effort ever made to understand her!?
She's a synonym of sacrifice and everything beautiful, 
a conqueror and a queen set to face an avalanche of challenges!
 
(To the women of our hearts and homes - you make us proud and happy every single passing day! Not just today being International Women's Day!)
 
  
Poem - "She" - on the eve of the International Women's Day 2022 -  Not surprisingly, the idea of an International Women's day has a global and leftist origin. At the dawn of the 20eth Century, it was the German delegates at a Socialist conference in USA who first proposed such an idea. Later, when USSR proclaimed and issued voting rights to women, the idea caught up as a concrete celebration. After the rise of the feminist movement in 1960s, in 1977, UN started celebrating March 8th as International Women's day. For the year 2022, the official theme of the event is 'Gender equality today for a Sustainable tomorrow.' The Governments of India and Andhra Pradesh took a slew of measures towards that lofty goal of Women Empowerment, still a distant dream, one that hinges on perception as well as ground reality.


Maheeth Veluvali,
Tuesday, 8th of March, 2022, 
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.

Thursday, February 17, 2022

Bishnupur


Tiger Hunt - Jor Bangla
What is the place ?
Bishnupur (literally, the land/town of Vishnu) of Bankura district, West Bengal is regarded as the Terracotta temple city of India, famed for Baluchari saries and Terracotta art. There are many ornately carved temples here, attributed to local Mallabhum rulers, dated mostly in later medieval ages. Most of the temples here are based on the indigenous Bengali roof (Chala) architecture, made of Terracotta and laterite. 
 


How I reached ?
Bishnupur has a bus terminus and a large railway station too on Bankura - Medinipur section of South Eastern Railways. As these are covid times, only few trains are running. I visisted Bishnupur on Train from Medinipur, which takes just around 90 minutes for a distance of around 100 kms. 

Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple
 
Where to stay and how to commute ?
There are few lodges in and around Bishnupur bus-station. I boarded at the Mallabhum lodge, for a charge of Rs.400/- per day. It was cozy. There are power autos that can be hired / shared in Bishnupur. Usually, they charge Rs.400/- for a full tour of all the temples of Bishnupur. People are friendly, can understand Hindi too and are extremely proud of the rich cultural heritage the place offers for tourists like me.
   
Jor Bangla
 
What's there to see ?
Most of the temples are under the aegis of the Archeological Survey of India. The famous temples and monuments include - 
1. Jor Mandir Temple complex, with three Eka-ratna style temples and a surrounding ground where a weekly haat takes place
2. Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple - the finest of the lot, the pinnacle of the temples at Bishnupur, built during 17th Century CE, said to be a forerunner of the more famous Dhakineshwar Temple.
3. Jor Bangla Temple - A curious amalgamation of two temples - with brilliant carvings depicting Ramayana, Sri Krishna Leela and other secular themes
4. Maa Chinamasta temple
5. Dal Mandal Cannon - a classic example of Bengali workmanship - forged locally out of wrought Iron in 16th Century CE, a legend surrounds the cannon that Lord Radha Madhav (Sri Krishna) would fire the cannon upon the invaders of Bishnupur. The cannon repulsed attacks by Afghan Pathans, Maratha Bagirs etc, and adds an evergreen charm to Bishnupur. 
6. Madam Mohan Temple - Located a bit far from other monuments, the temple has Thakurs viz murthis in local parlance. The glided Bengali roof over the temple is a sight to behold. 
 
Ras Mancha
 
7. Lalji Temple - Unfortunately, the temple was closed when I visited it, but explored the surrounding garden. 
8. Ras Mancha - or literally, a raised platform - an atypical pyramidal structure that served as a platform for the 108 deities of the temples of Bishnupur, during festivals. The structure has 108 arch entrances. 
9. Bishnupur fort citadel and surrounding moat
10. Gum Ghar - a sort of bottomless pit, an execution and condemnation site during Mallabhum times. 
11. Mata Mrinmayee Mata Temple 
12. Radhashyam Temple - another brilliant, ornate masterpiece
13. Few ruined temples viz Jagannatha Deula, Mahaprabhu temple etc,. 
 
Me at the Dal Madal Cannon
 
Note - Ras Mancha, Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple and Jor Bangla temples - these three monuments can be visited for a joint ticket of Rs.25/- (Indians). To visit other places, there is no charge of fee.
 
 
Me at the Jor Mandir Temple Complex
 

 
Visited on 12th and 13th of February, 2022
Maheeth Veluvali.

Thursday, December 16, 2021

1971

 
Picture information and credits below

The ides of march brought ill tidings to us all, 
for we lament the East that's bleeding red;
while the politics of power was vested and small, 
behold the Bengal of yore, the beauty brutalized;
 
The western beacons of democracy went silent, 
and refugees set for the noble land as problems piled;
There was neither time nor space, every day's a torment;
A sinister ploy left our brains raked and our hearts riled.
 
Then in winter, we made the impossible possible, 
a team was set and everything's in place;
A defining moment of glory so indomitable, 
wherein bluffs were called and risks were taken.
 
From the sea at Karachi, amidst clouded skies over Calcutta,
crossing the Meghna and liberating Dhaka -
To those valiant many who fought and died, 
and to the people of the new nation, 
What a glorious victory was it, etched forever in loving memory!
 

Poem / Poetic Tribute (English) - 1971
Exactly 50 years ago this day, i.e, 16th of December 1971, the Third Indo-Pak war concluded with the surrender of Pakistani forces in the then East Pakistan, leading to the formation of Bangladesh. The poem is a tribute to the Indian martyrs and is a commemoration of the 50 year friendship between the nations of India and Bangladesh. 
Picture above - Lt Gen A A K Niazi signing the Instrument of Surrender under the gaze of Lt Gen J S Aurora (left), General Commander of the Indian and Bangladeshi Forces. 
 
 
Maheeth Veluvali, 
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu,
Thursday, 16th of December 2021.

Tuesday, November 2, 2021

Andhra's last bastion of Hinyana Buddhism


My Friend and I

(Dedicated to my friend Mahesh, with whom I visited the place)
Widely regarded as Andhra's Ellora, the National protected monument of Guntupalli Buddhist Caves is an under-rated, picturesque place. I've had the good fortune of visiting this historical place with a friend. The monument comprises of a few rock-cut Buddhist viharas/chaityas and a sthupa, spread over two hills. Originally dated to 200s -0s BCE, scholars regard this site as belonging to Hinyana Buddhist phase - a rarity in Andhra Pradesh, wherein once Mahayana Buddhism flourished.

The path

The chaitya with the arch entrance

The arch-type entrance to the first Chaitya is very interesting - it resembles the apsidal construction of Lomas Rishi cave (Barabar Caves, Bihar) - probably, one of the first in India. Guntupalli is also associated with the legendary Maurya emperor, Asoka the Great. In-fact, Buddhism owes it's spread due to the missionary zeal of the repentant Emperor of Magadha. There are few Brick Sthupas too, of a lesser quality.  The Viharas carved out of the hillock offer interesting insights into the lifestyle of Buddhist monks, for example, the crude but functional drainage system to flush out any excess clogged rainy water. 


The main sthupa



The great Kalinga emperor of Mahameghavahana dynasty, Kharavela issued a famous inscription at Guntupalli, probably during his conquest of Andhra. The inscription is missing - so are the relic caskets which were allegedly discovered near the main sthupa. The main Sthupa and the platform way to it - offers a glorious view of the surroundings below. However, there is huge scope for tourism potential lest this glorious place be permanently reduced to a motley group of dilapidated ruins. Hope this isn't a cry in the wilderness!

View from Main Sthupa


Maheeth Veluvali, (Dedicated to my friend Mahesh, with whom I visited the place)
Tuesday, 02nd of November, 2021
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.

Monday, October 25, 2021

The legacy of the Gangikondan

Lateral View
 
On the morning of the 21st of October, 2021, I had the humble pleasure of visiting Arulmigu Perudaivar Kovil / Brihadisvara Temple of Gangaikonda Cholapuram, dedicated to Lord Shiva. Located in the present day district of Ariyalur of Tamilnadu, the temple is attributed to the greatest among Imperial Cholas, Rajendra I, dated early 11th Century CE. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of the Great Living Chola Temples, along with the more famous namesake temple at Tanjore and the Airavatesvara Swamy temple of Darasuram. Unlike the big temple of Tanjore, this temple is comparatively small, but more peaceful and attracts lesser devotees / tourists. Nevertheless, it is an architectural and sculptural wonder!
 
The remote location and blissful atmosphere adds an essence of aura to this marvel. At the entrance, supported by a large wall, there is a small Dhwaja-Sthamba and a rather sharply carved Nandi. The sancutm sanctorum inside the distinct and tall Dravida style Vimana can be approached by a long passageway inside the single main mandapa. The idol of Lord Shiva is a large Linga. On the walls of the temple, there are beautiful carvings and niches of various Gods, but mostly dedicated to various forms of Lord Shiva like Bhikshatanamurthi, Nataraja. There are separate shrines in the temple complex dedicated to Lord Ganesa, Goddess Durga and Nayanar saints. 
Nandi Pavilion
 
But one frieze/relief caught my attention - on the north-east wall of the temple, there exists the Chandesanugrahamurthi / Rajendra Chola I pattabhishekham panel which has two different interpretations - As Chandesanugrahamurthi, a feature of South Indian Saiva temples, wherein Lord Shiva, flanked by Goddess Parvati is blessing Chandeshvara Nayanar, the celebrated Nayanar Bhakti saint. The other plausible explanation is that the carving actually belongs to Rajendra Chola I, coronated / garlanded by Lord Shiva, watched by Goddess Parvati - the subtle hints of the cementing of the Devaraya cult. 
Chandesangrahamurthi / Rajendra Pattabhishekam
 
No one knew why Rajendra decided to build the temple and the surrounding village of Gangaikonda Cholapuram - the true source of power of Imperial Cholas for a period of 250 years. As I roamed in the premises of the great temple, I realised that I was walking on the legacy of the Gangaikondan - the greatest among Imperial Cholas, whose armies would campaign on the banks of river Ganges, and whose navies would invade South-East Asia. At that point of time, the Chola emperor was the single most powerful man of South Asia and South-East Asia. 
 
 
Gangaikonda Cholapuram
 
Maheeth Veluvali, 
Monday - 25th of October, 2021.  
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.

Sunday, October 24, 2021

Clothed in Wisdom

I've had the very good and blessed opportunity of visiting Chidambaram and Srimushnam recently.

Chidambaram
The very name Chidambaram means 'Clothed in wisdom / consciousness'. The once flourishing city of the Imperial Cholas is still a reverential and respected place, located in Cuddalore district of Tamil Nadu. The place was once a dense forest - hence the name 'Thillai'. Chidambaram possesses perhaps one of the finest and mysterious temples of India - The Thillai Nataraja Temple, steeped in Hindu mythology & history, dedicated to Lord Shiva as the cosmic dancer Nataraja. The temple is a Shaiva Pancha Bhoota Sthalam (Element : Sky / Ether). The temple is also a Vaishnava Divya Desam, as the abode of Lord Govindaraja Perumal, also known as 'Thiruchitrakoodam'. Spread over 45 acres with four Gopurams on all four sides visible from the Trichy highway, a visit to this spacious and divine place is an exhilarating experience.
 
Me at South Gopuram of Thillai Nataraja Temple

I visited the temple in the evening, after 4 PM from the South Gopuram entrance. On the walls of each Gopuram, neatly carved images displaying dance poses / bhangimas inspired from the treatise Bharatamuni's Natyasastra greet the pilgrims. These would later inspire the famous dance form of Bharatanatyam. Thus, visibly Chidambaram is the place where fine arts and spirituality co-exist. Niche carvings of Nayanars, Lord Vishnu mounted on Garuda, Mahishasuramardini are also impressive. Once inside the main mandapa, I was delighted beyond words to find that the east facing Govindaraja Perumal swamy's idol and the South facing Thillai Nataraja Swamy's idol are located just adjacent to each other. There are separate sub-shrines dedicated to Goddess Sivagami, Lord Adi moolanathar and Goddess Umiya Parvathi too. 
 
Few western sources (?) claim that the World's magnetic equator passes through the exact place where Lord Nataraja's idol is consecrated. The vibrations near the sanctum sanctorum are blissful and beyond description. Nine Separate pillared halls and pavilions are another brilliant feature of this temple. I spent atleast an hour at this awesome place! Next, I visited the Thillai Kali Amman temple, located in the outskirts, which seemed to be smeared in Red vermilion. The main deity, Goddess Thillai Kali, appears in a furious, reddish form, diagonally opposite tot he deity palced on entrance dedicated to much calmer Thillai Amman.   
Beautiful sculpture work - Srimushnam


Srimushnam
Goddess Bhu-devi saving Varaha was the third incarination of Lord SrimahaVishnu. Located some 40 kms away from Chidambaram, the Bhoo-Varaga Perumal Swamy temple of Srimushnam,originally attributed to Medieval Cholas, but alter day additons made by Tanjore Nayaka Kings, is a large & spacious temple, noted for Hindu-Muslim Unity as well. There's a Telugu inscription inside the temple too which was interesting. The brilliant & artistic sculpture and carving work on pillars, especially of plaited haired attendants is unique and distinguishing feature of the temple.   



Maheeth Veluvali,
24th of October, 2021,
16 Saladi Jamindar street, Palakollu,.