My travels is all about... My views, thoughts and experiences on/about/at/with random places of interest, persons, things, events, issues etc,. I am an eternal student with a restless mind and a tumultuous heart!

Sunday, July 28, 2024

Akbar's Abandoned Project


@ Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

Fathepur Sikri, Uttar Pradesh. - March, 2023
Fathepur Sikri is a city in Uttar Pradesh, located 43 kms away from Agra housing Mughal Monuments like imperial palace, Buland Darwaza, Sheikh Salim Chisti's Tomb, Jama Masjid, Pancha Mahal etc. Prima Facie, the dusty, dotted road connecting Agra with Jaipur offers a deceptively simple view of Fathepur Sikri - the brief capital of Great Mughals in 16th Century, a pet project of Akbar I (r.c.1556-1605 CE), and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Infact, the city was inhabited even before the advent of Mughals, right from the times of Sungas.

View from Buland Darwaza

@ Buland Darwaza, Fatehpur Sikri

The red sandstone ramparts are dominated by Buland Darwaza, world's tallest gateway. Commissioned by Akbar after his conquest of Gujarat in c.1570s CE, standing at 55 meters / 177 feet, the gateway leads to the Jama Masjid of Fatehpur Sikri. The white marble encased tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti is a popular Dargah that attracts the devout. One must be wary of the wayside hawkers and self styled guides who seem to be omnipresent. The site offers great insights into Muhgal era lifestyle. Of particular interest is the five storied Pancha Mahal, with a gradual size decrease in each tier, an amalgamation of Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic styles. 

Treasury, Fatehpur Sikri

@ Tomb of Sheikh Salim Chisti

The Shabistan-I-Iqbal (wrongly called as Jodha Bhai's Palace), Turkish Queen's House, Treasury, Elephant Stables are other important places of interest. The Diwan-i-Aam (People's Assembly) as well as the lavish Diwan-i-Khaas, the quintessential Mughal buildings are also constructed.  It appears that the city was conceived in a grandiose way. One of the local guides pointed out a simple yet elegant Mughal creativity - air ducts embedded into walls that provide a breadth of fresh and cool air even in the heights of summer!  

Elephant Stables, Fathepur Sikri

Fathepur Sikri, at it's zenith matched Delhi and Agra and was the grandest Mughal city, citadel of Great Mughals under Akbar. However, the city was abandoned later on, during Akbar's time itself. In the words of British traveler William Finch, "it is all ruinate, lying like a waste desert" (c.1610s CE). The reason for the abandonment was simple - water! The lack of planning and execution regarding water supply spelt doom and caused disinterest in Akbar, making Fatehpur Sikri his most ambitious abandoned project. 

Pancha Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri

One would fervently hope that the planners of the modern smart cities are aware of Fathepur Sikri!


Akbar's Abandoned Project - on Fathepur Sikri
16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu
Sunday, 28th of July, 2024
Maheeth Veluvali. 

Tuesday, July 16, 2024

Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance


@ Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

The Descent of the Ganges, also called Arjuna's Penance, a large open air rock relief, is just a stone's throw away from the Bus station of Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram in Chengalpattu District of Tamil Nadu. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as a part of Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram. This Great relief is a work of art. Commissioned by the Pallava King 'Mahamalla' NarasimhaVarman I in mid 7th Century CE after his defeat of Chalukya Pulakesin II, carved by Mandhatar, a renowned sculptor, the relief is the pinnacle specimen of the then workmanship, skill and human endeavor. Measuring 96*43 feet (29*13 m), and spread over two adjacent monolithic rock boulders, it is the largest open air bas relief in India. 

@ Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance

What does the relief mean? There are two different interpretations to this -
Firstly, it depicts the legendary Descent of the Ganges, wherein ascetic Sage Bhagiratha pleases Lord Shiva to bring forth waters of river Ganges onto the Earth. This feat is watched by Celestial beings of heaven, all sorts of wild animals. Infact, the carving of life size Elephants along with calves in terrific. A lengthy opening between the two boulders contains Naga images, representing the river in a crafty and creative way. Incidentally, this is the most accepted and popular interpretation. 

Another interesting interpretation is based on the celebrated Epic Mahabharata and Bharavi's Sanskrit treatise, Kiratarjuneeyam. As per this, the ascetic in question is not Bhagiratha, but Arjuna, who went on to attain the Divine Weapon, Pasupata-Astra from Lord Shiva


In the bottom central portion of the relief, a Cat tries to copy the ascetic's penance to lure any nearby rodents - a humorous Panchatantra tale that warns people to be wary of false ascetics. Further, Sage Agastya is also shown along with disciples, near a small shrine. This is another creative allegory - Agastya is regarded as destroyer of the demon Vatapi in Hindu lore, an attribute with which 'Mahamalla' NarasimhaVarman I would associate, as Vatapigaikondan i.e, Conqueror of Vatapi (Vatapi was also called Badami - the capital of Chalukyas).  


Whatever be the interpretation, Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance continues to capture the attention and admiration of the masses and scholars alike!



   "Descent of the Ganges / Arjuna's Penance" 
   16 Saladi Jamindar Street,
   Palakollu. 
   Tuesday, 16th of July, 2024.
   Maheeth Veluvali

Monday, July 1, 2024

Sweet Victory

(On Saturday, 29th of June, 2024 - India beat Republic South Africa to clinch ICC Cricket World Cup T20 2024, a major cricket title after an agonizing near misses of eleven years. This is a poetic tribute to the men in blue.)

"
In Barbados, an old tale seemed to play out, 
a familiar eerie script, a Deja vu of sorts. 
The hopes and dreams seldom in doubt,
but aren't twisted tales a part of sports?

The West held promise unlike the travails of past, 
what's that good in the game of cricket, many would feel?
But the nation of passionate millions waiting for a blast,
got everything when Rohit Sharma's men sealed the deal.

Fandoms passed down from generations, 
a cult that survives and thrives. 
One game of bat and ball with twenty two players
a feverish craze beyond mere words. 

Let the negativity and naysayers wait for all that matters, 
And hear, hear; - Indian Cricket, another glorious chapter is added.  
What a game it was, and catches do win matches,
a gloomy decade gone, let us bask in glory, with our boys' backs' patted.
"

"Sweet Victory" (Poem / Poetic Tribute) 
                                                                                                                            16 Saladi Jamindar Street,
Palakollu. 
Monday, 1st of July, 2024.
Maheeth Veluvali