Patan & Modhera

Rani Ka Vav, Patan

Patan

Dusty roads dotted by occasional camels harking back to the halcyon days of Rajputana, shimmering heat beating down mercilessly on the heritage structures all around….Patan offered me a glory sight that day.

 

Located in North Gujarat, Patan was the ancient capital of Gujarat region and had been continuously inhabited since times immemorial. The city in it’s current form, formerly known as Anhilwahara was first attributed to Vanraj Chavda in c.8^th Century CE. For the next few centuries, it was the capital of Chavdas, Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas and Vaghelas. Patan is famous for the Patola Ikat sarees, a rich, ornate, artistic and crafty tradition that is now the preserve of only one family. 

 

skull club weilding apsara

Lip Gloss or Lip Stick ?

Varaha Avatar

 

The most interesting monument of the city is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Rani Ka Vav also known as Nani Ka Vav / The Queen's step-well along with the adjacent Sahasraling Talav. Sourcing water was always a difficult prospect in the semi arid parched lands of North Gujarat. Step-wells, commissioned at selected places to tap into deep aquifers are a popular choice. Rani Ka Vav is the best example. It is attributed to Queen Consort Rani Udayamati, former princess of Saurashtra, in memory of her beloved husband, Bhima I of Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas of Anhilwara in c.11th Century CE. The exquisite carvings and sculptures, rich pillar work, deceptively simple steps all add to the beauty and grandeur of this monument, a symbol of love and resolve of the benevolent queen. Many historical works like those of Jain monks viz Merutunga vouch to this impressive and intricate step-well.

 

Parashurama Avatar

Vamana Avatar

An Apsara

 

Modhera

Located around 36 kms from Patan en route the famous Becharji shrine, and around 30 kms away from the district headquarters of Mahesana, Modhera was recently declared as India's first complete round the clock (24*7) solar electrified village. It is famous for the ruins of the impressive Sun Temple, attributed to Maru-Gurjara Architecture, and associated with Bhima I of Solanki Rajputs / Chalukyas of Anhilwara (c.11th Century CE). 

 

Surya Kund, Modhera

Modhera Sun Temple

Modhera Sun Temple

 

The Sun temple has rich, ornate carvings depicting themes from Ramayana and Mahabharata. The large tank, Surya Kund is impressive feature. The Gudha-Mandpa is a terrific structure. The invading forces of Sultan Sebuktigin Mahmud of Ghazan clashed with the Solanki Rajputs near the temple, due to which the temple was partially destroyed. However, the temple lost it's prominence after the raids of Khiljis in c.13th Century CE.   

 

Surya / Arka, Modhera

Pillar work, Modhera

 

I was overwhelmed and overjoyed for having visited these historic places of heritage. 

 

Me at Rani Ka Vav, Patan

  

 

Maheeth Veluvali, 

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu, 

October 2022

Gorbachev

Mikhail S Gorbachev

"

The sick sickle and hammer suffered since the sixties,

when the war that wasn't hot was too hot to handle,

there was beauty in struggle, like autumn's lillies,

brought up in the red banner of Moscow's granduer.

 

A clash of ideologies set after a gory war, 

brought no glory to the common man,

swollen pride mattered little with prices they can't bear,

and one man understood the rut, a reformer in a dying clan.

The warriors of west, those champions of democracy mocked 'Trust but verify',

with the ashes of the second world consigned in Afghanistan's battlefields.

But, one little Gorbi made one last stand, 

hated by left right and centre, still not corrupted by power. 

Glasnost and Perestroika, the comrade general secretary ensured in letter and spirit, 

unmindful of history's partisan junior judges, unaware of the betrayals by one and all,

Tried till the last to hold the republics, but never forcing the winds of change, 

'This is how it ends, Sasha' said the maligned Gorbi and quietly slipped out with no applause.

"

 

Mikhail S Gorbachev passed away in August 2022. He was the president of the Sovier Union from 1985 to 1991, whose well meant reforms of Glasnost and Perestroika could not save the Union from disintegration. Although there is divided opinion on his legacy, one should accept his role in the end of cold war and his unappreciated efforts to save the people reeling under an in-efficient socio-enconmic system, his untiring efforts to unite the union till the last, and his stoic refusal to quell rebellions in the republic. 

Tuesday, 27th of September, 2022

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, 

Palakollu

In the footsteps of Sri-Prtithvi Vallabhas....

Me at the Sangameswara Temple

 

What is the place ? 

Alampur of Jogulamba Gadwal district, Telangana State is a famous town that houses the temples of Goddess Jogulamba Shakti Peetha, Nava Brahma Temple complex, Sangameswara Temple and Papanasa temple group. Part of the Raichur Doab and regarded as the Western Gateway of Srisailam, Alampur is in existence at-least from the times of Chalukyas of Badami, if not even before (c.6th/7th Centuries CE). Resembling the world heritage site of group of monuments at Pattadakal, the temples here, mostly dedicated to Lord Shiva and Shakti worship, are a classic example of Vesara Architecture.

 

Amorous Couple - Swarga Brahma Temple

 

How I reached ?

Alampur is well connected by buses from Gadwal, Kurnool (27 Kms away, separated by River Tungabhadra). There is a railway station too. I visited Alampur from Kurnool.

 

Lingodbhavamurthi - Swarga Brahma Temple

 

Where to stay and how to commute ?

There are few lodges available near the Bus-station. All major temples are at walk-able distance from the bus-station.

 

Swarga Brahama Temple

 

Lord Valli sameta Devasena - Alampur Musem

 

What's there to see ?

Most of the temples are under the aegis of the Archeological Survey of India. The famous temples and monuments include - 

1. Shakti Peetha Jogulamba Temple - The most famous and important temple of the place, regarded as one of the Eighteen major Shakti peethas. The temple's glory was eclipsed during the Bahman rule of Raichur Doad in late 14th Century, it's current location was rebuilt in 2005.

2. Nava Brahma Temple complex - A cluster of nine Saiva temples located adjacent to the Shakti Peetha, this compex is a national protected monument. Some fine carvings / sculptures are present on the walls of these temples. With distinct amalak, striking elements of Vesara architecture, it was thrilling to explore these historical temples, once associated with the halcyon days of Pulakesin II, Vikramaditya I etc,. Among these, only the Bala Brahmeswara Swamy temple of Lord Shiva is a temple in religious sense - the others are monuments.

   

Cross section of Nava Brahma Temples

A part of Navabrahma Temples

 

3.Kudala Sangameswara Swamy Temple - This iconic and brilliant masterpiece attributed to late 7th Century CE was relocated from it's earlier place to the current site at Alampur owing to the construction of Srisailam Dam on River Krishna further south. The temple has some exquisite carvings like Padmapani Boddhisatva, Lord Shiva as Destroyer, River Godesses etc, 

4. Papanasa Group of Temples - Located a bit far from the rest, these simple, monotonous temples hark back to an early era. The carving of Amitabha Buddha on a ceiling is striking, along with few examples of pillar works. 

5. Archeological Museum, Alampur - This little museum houses some terrific artifacts in good shape, like statues, inscriptions etc,.

Pillar art depicting Ksheer Sagara Mathanam - Papanasa Temple

River Goddess at Sangameswara Temple

 

I felt really blessed and happy for having visited this historical temple town, a melting pot of cultures, a key geo-strategic place, the land of the Sri-Prithvi Vallabhas of Deccan viz, Chalukyas of Badami who left their artistic and militaristic footprints on the sands of time....

 

Me at the Jogulamba Temple Gopuram

 

 

 

Visited on Sunday, 26th of June, 2022

Maheeth Veluvali.

She

From the ages of the distant past, 

silently she rose and made her way. 

Words like daggers and actions like thorns 

just made the champion in her determined to stay!

 

Battles for an equal pie and a right to be acknowledged,

 - struggles that were fought within and without.

She wasn't a sacrificial lamb, rather a Tiger that pounced,

she's mundane and divine, obvious yet a mystery, without doubt. 

 

Emperors, Poets and singers rave about her beauty,

But was an honest effort ever made to understand her!?

She's a synonym of sacrifice and everything beautiful, 

a conqueror and a queen set to face an avalanche of challenges!

 

(To the women of our hearts and homes - you make us proud and happy every single passing day! Not just today being International Women's Day!)

 

  

Poem - "She" - on the eve of the International Women's Day 2022 -  Not surprisingly, the idea of an International Women's day has a global and leftist origin. At the dawn of the 20eth Century, it was the German delegates at a Socialist conference in USA who first proposed such an idea. Later, when USSR proclaimed and issued voting rights to women, the idea caught up as a concrete celebration. After the rise of the feminist movement in 1960s, in 1977, UN started celebrating March 8th as International Women's day. For the year 2022, the official theme of the event is 'Gender equality today for a Sustainable tomorrow.' The Governments of India and Andhra Pradesh took a slew of measures towards that lofty goal of Women Empowerment, still a distant dream, one that hinges on perception as well as ground reality.

Maheeth Veluvali,

Tuesday, 8th of March, 2022, 

16 Saladi Jamindar Street, Palakollu.

Bishnupur

Tiger Hunt - Jor Bangla

What is the place ?

Bishnupur (literally, the land/town of Vishnu) of Bankura district, West Bengal is regarded as the Terracotta temple city of India, famed for Baluchari saries and Terracotta art. There are many ornately carved temples here, attributed to local Mallabhum rulers, dated mostly in later medieval ages. Most of the temples here are based on the indigenous Bengali roof (Chala) architecture, made of Terracotta and laterite. 

 

How I reached ?

Bishnupur has a bus terminus and a large railway station too on Bankura - Medinipur section of South Eastern Railways. As these are covid times, only few trains are running. I visisted Bishnupur on Train from Medinipur, which takes just around 90 minutes for a distance of around 100 kms. 

Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple

 

Where to stay and how to commute ?

There are few lodges in and around Bishnupur bus-station. I boarded at the Mallabhum lodge, for a charge of Rs.400/- per day. It was cozy. There are power autos that can be hired / shared in Bishnupur. Usually, they charge Rs.400/- for a full tour of all the temples of Bishnupur. People are friendly, can understand Hindi too and are extremely proud of the rich cultural heritage the place offers for tourists like me.

   

Jor Bangla

 

What's there to see ?

Most of the temples are under the aegis of the Archeological Survey of India. The famous temples and monuments include - 

1. Jor Mandir Temple complex, with three Eka-ratna style temples and a surrounding ground where a weekly haat takes place

2. Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple - the finest of the lot, the pinnacle of the temples at Bishnupur, built during 17th Century CE, said to be a forerunner of the more famous Dhakineshwar Temple.

3. Jor Bangla Temple - A curious amalgamation of two temples - with brilliant carvings depicting Ramayana, Sri Krishna Leela and other secular themes

4. Maa Chinamasta temple

5. Dal Mandal Cannon - a classic example of Bengali workmanship - forged locally out of wrought Iron in 16th Century CE, a legend surrounds the cannon that Lord Radha Madhav (Sri Krishna) would fire the cannon upon the invaders of Bishnupur. The cannon repulsed attacks by Afghan Pathans, Maratha Bagirs etc, and adds an evergreen charm to Bishnupur. 

6. Madam Mohan Temple - Located a bit far from other monuments, the temple has Thakurs viz murthis in local parlance. The glided Bengali roof over the temple is a sight to behold. 

 

Ras Mancha

 

7. Lalji Temple - Unfortunately, the temple was closed when I visited it, but explored the surrounding garden. 

8. Ras Mancha - or literally, a raised platform - an atypical pyramidal structure that served as a platform for the 108 deities of the temples of Bishnupur, during festivals. The structure has 108 arch entrances. 

9. Bishnupur fort citadel and surrounding moat

10. Gum Ghar - a sort of bottomless pit, an execution and condemnation site during Mallabhum times. 

11. Mata Mrinmayee Mata Temple 

12. Radhashyam Temple - another brilliant, ornate masterpiece

13. Few ruined temples viz Jagannatha Deula, Mahaprabhu temple etc,. 

 

Me at the Dal Madal Cannon

 

Note - Ras Mancha, Pancha Ratna Shyam Rai Temple and Jor Bangla temples - these three monuments can be visited for a joint ticket of Rs.25/- (Indians). To visit other places, there is no charge of fee.

 

 

Me at the Jor Mandir Temple Complex

 

 

Visited on 12th and 13th of February, 2022

Maheeth Veluvali.